I’m a little rusty, being retired the last ten years. The only TJ I’ve done was last year using your 16” kit and complete rear set up.
It went together and worked like MAGIC. Beginners luck
Cannot get brakes to bleed
- Thread starter Dave.R
- Start date
It went together and worked like MAGIC. Beginners luck
Get someone to push the pedal down after you open the bleeder and there will be 1-2 small bubbles in each corner.I’m a little rusty, being retired the last ten years. The only TJ I’ve done was last year using your 16” kit and complete rear set up.
It went together and worked like MAGIC. Beginners luck
How long should you wait for tiny bubbles to settle before going back to each corner?
I made an edit to the method I have been using for, well, a long time. Again, old retired and rusty.
When pressing the pedal, I forgot to mention not letting it go full stroke and stop & hold a couple inches from bottoming out.
Pardon my intrusion. Listen to those who do this everyday.
When pressing the pedal, I forgot to mention not letting it go full stroke and stop & hold a couple inches from bottoming out.
Pardon my intrusion. Listen to those who do this everyday.
Not going all the way to the end of the stroke is a method used for old cast iron masters that have been sitting and may have a rusty or damaged bore and you don't want to tear up the cup seals to get it moving so you can fix it. None of that holds true for a good master and if it were a tiny bit true, then we would be replacing masters after every panic stop where the cup seals enter into a section of bore that is rarely used.
I didn’t (don’t) always follow the rule of not going full floor. I usually just pump & dump. It never really clicked with me that not going full to the floor could damage seals because when I bench bleed I always go full stroke. I just wanted to mention the method that wouldn’t(?) damage any internal seal so as not to get blamed for some random guy with hands softer than my wife’s ruining his master.
I haven’t worked much with these aluminum(?) masters with the plastic reservoirs.
Most of my line work was done pre-war, Desert Storm.
Did medium pace two pumps at each corner, got some bubbles on the first shot, nothing on the second. Pedal to the floor remains.
Jeep off I can only get it half way down, Jeep on i can touch the floor, Jeep seems to stop well but takes all of the pedal.
Jeep off I can only get it half way down, Jeep on i can touch the floor, Jeep seems to stop well but takes all of the pedal.
Bench bleed the spare MC, again only to 1/8 inch compression till stop. Put it on, bled the system. Same shitty pedal. I’m ready to sell this thing off. Lines are new, no leaks.
The only thing I could think is maybe somehow the bleeders are letting air in, but I’m tightening them up when the pedal is against the floor board, so that shouldn’t be the problem.
I’m starting to think these pads are compressible with how this POS feels.
The pedal feels fine when off, I wouldn’t think the BB working too well would be a sign of failure.
The only thing I could think is maybe somehow the bleeders are letting air in, but I’m tightening them up when the pedal is against the floor board, so that shouldn’t be the problem.
I’m starting to think these pads are compressible with how this POS feels.
The pedal feels fine when off, I wouldn’t think the BB working too well would be a sign of failure.
Found a veteran Jeep guy today, we put it up and confirm it’s all bled out.
Pedal still makes it to the floor with about 1/2 stroke to engage anything.
Starting to think either the pads, prop valve, or calipers are bad.
Pedal still makes it to the floor with about 1/2 stroke to engage anything.
Starting to think either the pads, prop valve, or calipers are bad.
Thanks for your positivity as always Blaine. Soft pedal isn’t quite the same as going completely to the floor.
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