Can't buy help to remove a body lift

You guys in USA must get shop work done pretty cheap!
I dont think the cost quoted is that excessive and would expect the same kind of cost if I booked in to have a body lift put on or taken off.
An oil change plugging in a OBD reader kicking 4 tyres vacuuming the inside and a magic tree costs up to $300 every 3-6 months here.
 
I took a 3" BL off my TJ when I got it. Its not hard but it took me about half a day but I also had a couple things slow it down. My radiator had been lowered and getting those bolts off and back on was a pain. I think I ended up just CAREFULLY taking a sawzall to cut off one of them. My gas filler neck had also been extended but the extension had got really stuck on there and I had to buy a new hose for it. Lastly, I did have a transfer case linkage drop I had to remove.

Its not a hard job but make sure you look over the jeep thoroughly so you don't miss anything that you'll have to remove or replace. And like @Rubicon88 said this is a job that something could easily go wrong. Fortunately, I live in the south and rust isn't really an issue so I got lucky that I didn't have any real problems on this job.
 
Really appreciate the shared knowledge here. Most of it tracks with what I’ve read previously throughout the site.

@Midtenn I’m two hours west of Nashville off I-40 in Jackson. I would love to meet but would never drive that far in this Jeep in its current condition. Part of the imperative to get the damned lift and 35” MT’s off.

@Rubicon88 some valid points you’ve made. I do hope your use of “you” is indeed in the plural because I’ve never publicly or privately “ripped” on any mechanic. Many of my extended family are in this line of work and live over south of @Midtenn. I have a huge degree of admiration for the work they do and sensitivity to the challenge of quoting business. The intent of my post was to help my preferred mechanic have a sense of orientation and comfort level with trying this project. Rough Country is about an hour north of me and they were going to call some contacts in Dyersburg to ask for advice. I’m perfectly fine with their hourly on-the-rack rate of $100 and if it reaches 9 hours, I’d rather give it to them than the off-road shop (who quoted $900) because any time I’ve spoken with them they have been pretty elitist about what they do. They may do exceptional work—however I know of no one who has had a great experience with them.
 
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Really appreciate the shared knowledge here. Most of it tracks with what I’ve read previously throughout the site.

@Midtenn I’m two hours west of Nashville off I-40 in Jackson. I would love to meet but would never drive that far in this Jeep in its current condition. Part of the imperative to get the damned lift and 35” MT’s off.

@Rubicon88 some valid points you’ve made. I do hope your use of “you” is indeed in the plural because I’ve never publicly or privately “ripped” on any mechanic. Many of my extended family are in this line of work and live over south of @Midtenn. I have a huge degree of admiration for the work they do and sensitivity to the challenge of quoting business. The intent of my post was to help my preferred mechanic have a sense of orientation and comfort level with trying this project. Rough Country is about an hour north of me and they were going to call some contacts in Dyersburg to ask for advice. I’m perfectly fine with their hourly on-the-rack rate of $100 and if it reaches 9 hours, I’d rather give it to them than the off-road shop (who quoted $900) because any time I’ve spoken with them they have been pretty elitist about what they do. They may do exceptional work—however I know of no one who has had a great experience with them.
I can't speak for any shops down your way...
That said I wasn't picking on you...just using the generalized example of what all goes on in my world....daily...and can certainly appreciate why a shop, particularly on the east coast, would quote 9 beaners on a job like that.

Even at 9 strong it could be such a loser of a job.
If the worst scenario showed up...nobody wants to break news like "in order to get to it we need to cut your ride open...remove...install new one...now weld a new in there, peel your Jeep body back in position, then weld that back up."
Unless you wouldn't care...but even so no self respecting garage owner wants to even be tied to a scenario like that. The job itself just wouldn't feel like a nice clean repair or in that case a nice clean uninstall/install.

Then you throw in the customer (not suggesting you'd do this) who can say sure no big deal yet turns right around and burns the rep of said shop. Yes there are people who do that. Once you start a job like that you're forever married to the outcome. Hell there are some customers who associate a garage with a bad part. The very reason we refuse to even use any of the house branded products. They're vastly inferior and again to many people you're married to them. Like I'm standing on the assembly line making shit ball joints before we install them. 🙄🙄🙄🙄
We just won't use garbage parts and are always up front and clear with any job. Sadly there are still some people that no matter how far above and beyond you go for them it doesn't matter.

I wish you the best in your quest.
 
Here are some shots of the suspension and body lift blocks.

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Sorry to say but I can understand hesitation by shops and a very high cost.

I'm swapping out my JKS 1.25" BL to a Savvy BL. Snapped 3 bolts. I managed to get two of them out by welding on a new nut. The last one would not come out that way.

I have about 4 hours into cutting out the old bolt and welding in a nut attached to a thick washer to replace it. It was just a lot of time with a Dremel in a very small space.
 
Sorry to say but I can understand hesitation by shops and a very high cost.

I'm swapping out my JKS 1.25" BL to a Savvy BL. Snapped 3 bolts. I managed to get two of them out by welding on a new nut. The last one would not come out that way.

I have about 4 hours into cutting out the old bolt and welding in a nut attached to a thick washer to replace it. It was just a lot of time with a Dremel in a very small space.
I would buy a savvy 1.25 and this would be very easy,I did mine plus brown dog mm/lift and I inch steering shaft riser all in a night after work,and was done by midnight.
 
Ok I entirely understand the feedback about seized bolts and how the scope of the job could quickly escalate.

Can we pin that whole discussion for a moment? Per the carfax this Jeep has always lived it’s life in West TN/north MS and it’s pretty clean for a 23 year old Jeep. Definitely a possibility but I have another question here. Given the pics above, do the suspension wizards here feel like I could likely pull out the BL without having to replace springs and shocks or am I replacing everything?
 
The body lift has no impact on the suspension components. The springs and shocks connect the axles to the frame and the frame connects to the body, making the frame the bologna in the sandwich. Unless you live in the north, then it is the swiss cheese in the sandwich.
 
I don’t think it’s been mentioned, but it looks like you are running a 35” tire. That is likely why the 3” body lift was added in the first place. Remove it, and the 35’s will not work with the remaining 4” suspension lift. Were you planning on a smaller tire, or a larger lift? Or going to a 1 or 1.25” body lift? Could be another reason the shop was shying away from the work.
 
Update here: since my original post I have swapped out the 35” MT’s for 33” BFG ATs on 17” JK sports. Much better ride and now I’m on to pulling out the BL. I’ve decided to proceed with the local off-road shop and they have adjusted their range for the job to $540-720. Much better than $900.

My job at this point is to locate a stock fuel filler neck. Seeing a lot of different parts that correspond to that description. Can the group educate me on which part I’m purchasing here? I know a portion of the tube/pipe was cut and extended to accommodate the lift. What do I need?
 
Update here: since my original post I have swapped out the 35” MT’s for 33” BFG ATs on 17” JK sports. Much better ride and now I’m on to pulling out the BL. I’ve decided to proceed with the local off-road shop and they have adjusted their range for the job to $540-720. Much better than $900.

My job at this point is to locate a stock fuel filler neck. Seeing a lot of different parts that correspond to that description. Can the group educate me on which part I’m purchasing here? I know a portion of the tube/pipe was cut and extended to accommodate the lift. What do I need?
When I bought mine it had a body lift. The filler tube was cut and had a metal pipe to extend it. Just get a shorter pipe and put it back together.
 
When I bought mine it had a body lift. The filler tube was cut and had a metal pipe to extend it. Just get a shorter pipe and put it back together.
Sorry for the thick-headedness here but semantics...

Pipe = rubber tube, or are we talking about an inner channel that would run inside rubber tubing?
 
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Sorry for the thick-headedness here but semantics...

Pipe = rubber tube, or are we talking about an inner channel that would run inside rubber tubing?
Pipe=metal pipe
Tube =rubber tubing
Get a shorter piece of brass pipe of equal diameter as what was used to extend the filler tube.
 
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I own a shop and allow me a chance to shed some light on this.

#1 I can say 900 seems a tad on the high side but I've no idea what that shop's labor rate is....

#2 they probably quoted this job as a number rather than via book rate of hours.

#3 why...way too many intangibles can arise on a job like that. (The biggest reason I hate body lifts) there are far too many "what if's" in that particular job to try and quote accurately.

#4 body lifts suck putting on and taking off is even worse. Much worse going into it blind of mods and condition.
You can tell a shop "you don't think this or that was done" and guess what...doesn't mean shit.
If I had a nickel for every time a customer said "it only needs" yet in reality it needs a lot more.... or needs something completely different....I'd be retired now.

#5 ....the MOST important one.......

the shop has to protect itself. What if everything is going smoothly and then half way through all hell begins. As in the captured nut/tab that's welded breaks free from the body? Now it just spins as one unit. Now surgery must be performed. Cut the body/floor to get in there and hold the nut/tab to remove the bolt.
That's just one bolt. You've got several body mounts.
Think about that. What if that happened to all of them?
Add in whatever else they might find that was extended that needs brought back to stock distance...
You can say it won't happen to any of them or needs nothing retracted but they don't know that.

#6
this is a zero win job.....
TOO MANY POSSIBLE INTANGIBLES!!!

If they quote you low...then run into problems now they've got to bump you. (You'll rip their reputation to shreds for bumping you)
If they quote you high to protect themselves you'll rip their reputation to shreds by quoting too high (like you're doing right now)
If they run into bolt removal issues and have to cut into your beloved machine...I've no doubt you'll kill their rep and tell every available ear how xyz shop hacked up your Jeep...

If issues arise now they've got the dilemma of explaining to you the problems...they're half way done but now issues show up...do they reinstall the body lift...keep going...etc.?
All the while a bay is tied up with a job that ultimately is a loser....


Maybe that will help you understand coming from the perspective of a shop owner on this particular job.

Good luck
What he said . I e installed and removed body lifts. Granted I’m in the Northeast but it’s taken 2 hours with cleanup amd it’s extended three weeks due to unforeseen cutting and welding requirements
 
What he said . I e installed and removed body lifts. Granted I’m in the Northeast but it’s taken 2 hours with cleanup amd it’s extended three weeks due to unforeseen cutting and welding requirements
Yeah, I’m one of those who would rather take a bet on paying when I could have done the work myself on the reasonable chance I get to bolt 10 of 11 and it seizes while I have everything unbuckled. If I had a group of 2-3 guys with nothing better to do and as many floor jacks, I might give it a go. Instead I’m taking it on Tuesday to the local off-road shop and taking my butt whooping like a man.
 
Good shop in the Memphis area is Tipton 4x4 up in Munford, TN.