Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Car pics too cool not to share

BlueC said:
That's where the Merc is at, all new and factory. The car is 80% stock but weighs a little more than it did from the factory, which isn't helping anything, and those brakes are ok at best. I know he's looked at a couple disc setups over the years, but hasn't committed to it yet.

Here's a blurry pic of it at our friend's shop back in April. He has since lost a hubcap. :LOL:
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I have a '64 Chevy that I’ve been researching front disc on, and that $1,000 ballpark is where I keep landing, too. My Chevy is a manual brake car like your Ford, and I keep reading that disc setups need a booster, but I don't know anyone with a manual/disc setup, so I’ve never driven one. How is it? Guys online act like you can't safely drive a manual/disc setup.
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First of all, really nice Merc..
I would recommend to anyone that can afford to, to upgrade to front disc brakes at minimum if they do very much highway speed driving. On the Mercury, same as my 51 Ford the master cylinder is mounted under the floor. That gives a longer arm (more leverage) from the brake pedal to the master cylinder. So it applies more force with less pressure, same principal as power boosted. So there for the power brakes are not really needed as much.

Now on your 64 Chevy with the master cylinder located on the firewall the pedal arm has less leverage and therefore would gain more by using a booster. You still can safely run front disc rear drum brakes with a manual master cylinder but would take more pedal pressure than what you have now. I personally know several people using the manual master cylinder on their cars without any negative effects other than more input force on the pedal.
Either way you go you should absolutely run a dual system master cylinder with a proportioning valve just like on all modern cars.
 
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Rickyd said:
They are only shy if the aren't hungry 😂. I had one stalking me after field dressing a buck. Thankfully I saw it several hundred yards downwind and was able to hike faster than I ever had before with a blacktail on my back. I'm not worried about the bears down here. Just the cats...
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I shot a buck across a canyon about 5 years ago and had a mountain lion trying to get to it before me. I did get there first. He didn't bother me.
 
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Daubie3 said:
OK,
All you North West guys probably know what this is because they have been popular out there for years, not so much here in the Midwest.
This one of my 2 1970 ROKON TrailBreaker 2wd motorcycle. I got these from the original owner that bought them new in upper Michigan when he lived there and used them to moose hunt. I'm considering doing a full restore on this one but may also just leave it the way it is. It runs and rides fine.

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This picture is without the gas tank, I had it off cleaning it out.

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I've always liked those Rokons. Thought about getting one once, but never did. Thought they would be great for deer and pig hunting.
 
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Pretty cool car pic, though this might qualify as low flying aircraft as well... :D

BMW_STUCK_NRING74-1-3321361486.jpg


1974, Pflantzgarten, Nurgurgring. A young HJ Stuck catching some impressive air in the BMW 3.0 CSL.


Runner up would be pretty much any touring car taking to two wheels after nailing a sausage curb...

Alfa-Romeo-155-DTM_10-4134492249.jpg
 
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chili_pepper said:
In that case, I'm guessing you're a fan of carbon/ceramic brakes. They seem to light up more readily than the steelies.
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I actually don't know. I haven't had time to watch much racing over the last 10 or so years. I wouldn't have guessed the carbon rotors light up like steel. That's interesting. I'll have to look into that.
 
BlueC said:
I actually don't know. I haven't had time to watch much racing over the last 10 or so years. I wouldn't have guessed the carbon rotors light up like steel. That's interesting. I'll have to look into that.
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It's possible I'm off the mark there, just feels like they light up faster than the steel...though that could be very rotor and car dependent as well.
 
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Wildman said:
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Lot of bright work on that one. I like chrome, but what caught my eye is the Delco spiral shocks.

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A quick search and I didn't find any new repos, but I did see some wild prices on NOS and even old cores seem to be woth money. I have at least 4-8 lying around. I'm sitting on a gold mine. :sneaky:
 
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BlueC said:
Lot of bright work on that one. I like chrome, but what caught my eye is the Delco spiral shocks.

View attachment 566474

A quick search and I didn't find any new repos, but I did see some wild prices on NOS and even old cores seem to be woth money. I have at least 4-8 lying around. I'm sitting on a gold mine. :sneaky:
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Never would have guessed it was a "thing" but OK....

But now do you also see the blocks between the springs & axle? On solid axle 4WD rigs that's a No-No & I can't imagine that it's any more of a good idea on a 2WD rig.
 
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Wildman said:
Never would have guessed it was a "thing" but OK....
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Mostly for the "factory-correct" restoration guys. You should see prices for date coded NOS stuff, especially C1-C3 Corvette and B-body MoPar cars. Those spiral Delco shocks are selling at $500 a pair on one site I found, and I've seen my dad pay similar prices for date coded Corvette stuff. About 5 years ago, I watched a guy sell some 1970 date coded tires (display only) on a B-body site for like $1,000 per tire.

Wildman said:
But now do you also see the blocks between the springs & axle? On solid axle 4WD rigs that's a No-No & I can't imagine that it's any more of a good idea on a 2WD rig.
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I know the bigger the block, the worse it is, leverage and whatnot. Lots of leaf spring cars are lowered with blocks too. I know factory 4x4 trucks seem to run 2-3 inch blocks, so that must be an acceptable range, but I've seen trucks lifted 4-8 inches via blocks.

How about doubled up? Is that a Ford oval on that spring? 🤔
1729266682681.jpeg
 
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BlueC said:
Mostly for the "factory-correct" restoration guys. You should see prices for date coded NOS stuff, especially C1-C3 Corvette and B-body MoPar cars. Those spiral Delco shocks are selling at $500 a pair on one site I found, and I've seen my dad pay similar prices for date coded Corvette stuff. About 5 years ago, I watched a guy sell some 1970 date coded tires (display only) on a B-body site for like $1,000 per tire.



I know the bigger the block, the worse it is, leverage and whatnot. Lots of leaf spring cars are lowered with blocks too. I know factory 4x4 trucks seem to run 2-3 inch blocks, so that must be an acceptable range, but I've seen trucks lifted 4-8 inches via blocks.

How about doubled up? Is that a Ford oval on that spring? 🤔
View attachment 566478
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Rear springs are OK for lift blocks but I was always taught that any type of blocks on the front axle were 🚫 .
The reason was that you could spit the blocks out under heavy braking in think 🤔.
 
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