Circular Saw: 6-1/2" or 7-1/4"

jesseshoots

jesseshoots

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Title says it all. I'm looking to buy a circular saw and want to know which is ideal. I don't think I'll ever chop anything with it larger than a 2x, which makes me lean toward the 6-1/2". The 7-1/4" typically have stronger motor, but is that extra power worth the increase in handling size/weight?

I'm invested in the Makita 18v system already, so the three I'm considering are linked below.
https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/XSH04ZBhttps://www.makitatools.com/products/details/XSH03Zhttps://www.makitatools.com/products/details/XSH06Z
 
Depends on the thickness of cut you need. What’s the depth of cut at an angle with the 6.5? Also check the price and availability of blades.
 
jesseshoots said:
Title says it all. I'm looking to buy a circular saw and want to know which is ideal. I don't think I'll ever chop anything with it larger than a 2x, which makes me lean toward the 6-1/2". The 7-1/4" typically have stronger motor, but is that extra power worth the increase in handling size/weight?

I'm invested in the Makita 18v system already, so the three I'm considering are linked below.
https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/XSH04ZBhttps://www.makitatools.com/products/details/XSH03Zhttps://www.makitatools.com/products/details/XSH06Z
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The only thing that matters amongst those you listed is whether you are right or left handed. If you are right handed, get the one with the blade to the left side of the handle, opposite if you are left handed.
 
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bucky said:
Depends on the thickness of cut you need. What’s the depth of cut at an angle with the 6.5? Also check the price and availability of blades.
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Virtually all common saw blade sizes are commensurate in price and availability nowadays.
 
bucky said:
I remember when carbide blades where expensive and I would take my blades in for sharpening. Now It’s cheaper to just chuck them when they get dull.
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Yep, I used to send in my 12" Makita metal saw blades to get sharpened at least once and the 75 per blade was half of new price. Nowadays my 50 dollar Diablo blades blow away the Makita stuff and I just toss them when they are done.
 
I would put the 7-1/4 saw in your hand with batteries. With the two battery setup it will be heavy and awkward. I also second the idea of getting the blade on the side you feel comfortable with.
 
I have 2 of those 36v makita circ saws. Very well balanced. No motor drag. Batteries last a long time - I have all 5Ah - I like it a lot better than the longer worm drive rear handle saw.
 
I have had the dewalt smaller one for a long time, maybe 15 years or so not sure. I do a lot of home repairs, piers and deck builds and have never had an issue. I like the smaller size and cordless is a huge plus in my book. I can be a spaz and anything that slows me down (cord) has a tendency to piss me off.
 
mrblaine said:
The only thing that matters amongst those you listed is whether you are right or left handed. If you are right handed, get the one with the blade to the left side of the handle, opposite if you are left handed.
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Never thought about that much, I grew up using circular saws looking back and had blades on both side
 
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Plumber1 said:
Is that because of the torque of the motor ?
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No, you don't have to lean your head over to the other side of the saw to see the line. It is easier to cut something more accurately if the blade is on the outside of the line. If the blade is on the inside of the line, it is harder to gauge the relationship between the blade and line.
 
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mrblaine said:
Yep, I used to send in my 12" Makita metal saw blades to get sharpened at least once and the 75 per blade was half of new price. Nowadays my 50 dollar Diablo blades blow away the Makita stuff and I just toss them when they are done.
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I'm a big fan of the Diablo blades.

I'd go with the larger one. A time will come when you wish you would have if you don't.
 
Ron505 said:
I'd go with the larger one. A time will come when you wish you would have if you don't.
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In the meantime, you are using something larger, heavier and likely more difficult to use than the smaller saw if the Makita stuff is anything like the Milwaukee.

I probably have 8-10 circular saws ranging from at least 3 corded rear handle Skilsaw types that are the common framing saw here in SoCal to several cordless Milwaukee Fuel version. When I did a lot of framing and stair work around here to repair a lot of stuff that needed it, the little 6 1/2" got used for everything.

Had I needed a larger saw, I could have walked over and used any that I have but it wasn't needed. The only thing I would have needed one for is cutting some 6 x 6 posts to length, but it is just as easy to cut all the way around and grab the sawzall to finish it off as it is to grab a bigger saw.
 
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mrblaine said:
No, you don't have to lean your head over to the other side of the saw to see the line. It is easier to cut something more accurately if the blade is on the outside of the line. If the blade is on the inside of the line, it is harder to gauge the relationship between the blade and line.
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I did not realize motor orientation was an option nor did i appreciate how it messes with me spotting the blade until you mentioned it. Now i want a new circular saw because motor on RH side would be way better for me.
 
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B00mb00m said:
I did not realize motor orientation was an option nor did i appreciate how it messes with me spotting the blade until you mentioned it. Now i want a new circular saw because motor on RH side would be way better for me.
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It isn't an option generally for the same saw model. You have to pick a saw that is right for how you use it. Also one of the reasons I prefer the smaller saw over that bigger one, the blade is on the correct side.
 
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