Clutch Problem — Solved!

[fooey]

Today I was pulling away from a stop light and pushed in the clutch to shift from 1st to 2nd. When I pushed the pedal I felt a pop and then it went more or less to the floor. It feels like it goes through about 2/3rds of its travel, then it gets really stiff. Almost like you're flexing the pedal.

The clutch will not disengage at all. I was able to limp it home in 1st, but now I need to figure out what's going on.

I've been looking around, but I haven't really found anything definitive. I'm leaning towards a bad master/slave over a bad throwout bearing, but I don't want to just throw parts at it. And I REALLY don't want to drop the transmission again if I can help it.

Any suggestions for troubleshooting?

This is a 2000 Sport, 4.0, NV3550.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[Rob5589]

First would be the slave and clutch master. Could be the TOB as well. Mine froze up and sort of did the same thing, weak pedal and stuck in 2nd.

 

[nk24]

It could also be a busted flex plate. I had a similar thing happen in a 2000 Sport with an NV3550; the flex plate was practically wallowed out to the point it wasn't providing any resistance.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

It could also be a busted flex plate. I had a similar thing happen in a 2000 Sport with an NV3550; the flex plate was practically wallowed out to the point it wasn't providing any resistance.

That'd be the pressure plate, only automatics have flex plates.

 

[nk24]

That'd be the pressure plate, only automatics have flex plates.

Something didn't seem right when I typed that out. Thanks for the clarification.

 

[fooey]

I’m hoping it’s not the pressure plate, I replaced the clutch about 2k miles ago. New clutch, TOB and flywheel.

I thinking my options are replacing the hydraulic linkage and if that’s not it, out comes the transmission. Ugh

 

[fooey]

Welp, it's not the hydraulic linkage. New one showed up yesterday and when I put in the slave cylinder it didn't even touch the fork. I poked my finger in there and the fork was just moving back and forth with no spring tension on it at all. Really feeling a little dumb for not trying that before I ordered a new hydraulic assembly. Ready, fire, aim I guess.

Got the day off work tomorrow so the plan is to drop the trans to see what's going on. The more I think about it, the more I think the little spring that holds the other end of the clutch fork to the pivot has come off and is letting the fork just move back and forth. When I push it with my finger it still goes back and forth in a straight line, it's not just rattling around in there.

At any rate, all will be revealed tomorrow. I'll post up the findings and some pics if there's any photo worthy carnage.

 

[fooey]

Got the transmission pulled this morning, turns out the retainer clip that holds the TOB to the clutch fork broke.



Figures— I use the dreaded LuK TOB and it’s not the plastic bit that gets me, it’s the little spring clip. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[AndyG]

It amazes me how many vehicles are on the road , how many moving parts ..amazes me . It's a wonder they don't grenade half the time.

 

[ohiopatriot]

Dang, that's a lot of work because of a $2 part.

 

[Rob5589]

Got the transmission pulled this morning, turns out the retainer clip that holds the TOB to the clutch fork broke.

View attachment 50881

Figures— I use the dreaded LuK TOB and it’s not the plastic bit that gets me, it’s the little spring clip. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Bummer. When I did my clutch I replaced everything. Even so, sometimes sh&t just happens.

 

[FireJeep]

Got the transmission pulled this morning, turns out the retainer clip that holds the TOB to the clutch fork broke.

View attachment 50881

Figures— I use the dreaded LuK TOB and it’s not the plastic bit that gets me, it’s the little spring clip. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

What do you mean by "the dreaded LuK TOB"? I thought I read somewhere that LuK clutches and components were good replacements?......
I only ask because I think my clutch and/or TOB are in need of replacing..... (see "whirring" thread)

 

[ohiopatriot]

What do you mean by "the dreaded LuK TOB"? I thought I read somewhere that LuK clutches and components were good replacements?......
I only ask because I think my clutch and/or TOB are in need of replacing..... (see "whirring" thread)

Luk is a good choice when replacing a worn clutch, it the OE brand. Many just do not like the plastic sleeve on the throw out bearing.

 

[fooey]

What do you mean by "the dreaded LuK TOB"? I thought I read somewhere that LuK clutches and components were good replacements?......
I only ask because I think my clutch and/or TOB are in need of replacing..... (see "whirring" thread)

To second what ohiopatriot said above, the Luk clutches are a very good choice for a replacement. However the TOB that comes with that clutch kit was changed a few years ago to use a plastic sleeve where it slides back and forth on the input bearing retainer. There were some reports of failures due to the new design, but no clear indication of what the actual failure rate is. A lot of folks see ordering a TOB with a metal sleeve as cheap insurance when using the Luk clutch kit.

When I did my clutch back in October I decided to go ahead and use the Luk TOB. FWIW, after about 10 months of mostly in-town driving (not many miles, but lots of shifting) the plastic sleeve didn't show any real wear at all. The spring clip on the other hand...

I replaced the Luk TOB with this one on Amazon.

 

[Chris]

I love when people update their thread with the solution. So glad you solved it!

 

[FireJeep]

Thanks for the update and the alternative part.....

 

[PRINDI]

Doing a luk clutch right now is there another option on the spring clip or just go with it?

 

[someday]

same boat here, not sure if i should use the LUK TOB or not???

i got some time to think about because i need to order a new clutch release lever and spring...if i didnt see a pic of that spring breaking i wouldnt be 2nd guessing it