Contaminated clutch?

Unless you have seen and can verify your flywheel is actually damaged Northwood I wouldn't replace it.

They are normally still fine when it's time for a new clutch and at the most can sometimes use a little sanding with emery cloth or a mild grade of sandpaper to remove any glazing that may be present. I pulled my flywheel at 192k miles when I converted to the automatic and the flywheel was still absolutely fine. Luk would be the best choice of clutch kit. :)
 
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Unless you have seen and can verify your flywheel is damaged Northwood I wouldn't replace it. They are normally fine and at the most can sometimes use a little sanding with emery cloth or a mild grade of sandpaper to remove any glazing that may be present. I pulled my flywheel at 192k miles when I converted to the automatic and the flywheel was still absolutely fine. Luk would be the best choice of clutch kit. :)
Exactly the route I took last time I did this, and of course my flywheel looked fine because the throw out bearing was the only issue, only did the clutch to keep from dropping the tranny again.

Now I'm just worried with all this shuddering and the possibility of an oily flywheel that I'll get in there and the flywheel will be covered in chatter marks, have hot spots, or worst case scenario heat cracking :confused:
Although I doubt it's gone that far.

Just don't want to be stuck driving the motorcycle to work and waiting on a flywheel, it's still rather cold here lol.

Head is still spinning trying to think of anything other than contamination, that would cause my problems only when hot :demon7:
 
I belive I saw on another thread when you did your clutch and flywheel you used the luk flywheel? Is this the one? Amazon says it doesn't fit, but it's recommended with the clutch and throw out bearing that do fit. Their vehicle fitment isn't always the best.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K0XO64/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Otherwise the Mopar version is $242, which stings the wallet a tad more

Edit: 05-06 uses a different flywheel, Mopar PN 53010630AB for anyone reading this in the future

I purchased a clutch kit thru our local Napa Auto store. It was labeled as a Napa clutch manufactured by LUK. Don't recall part numbers.
 
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Checking motor mounts. Grasping at straws here. Put a jack under the oil pan to take the weight off the motor mounts. Driver side rubber separates from bottom of mount slightly, while the passenger side doesn't.
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Driver side under weight of engine
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Driver with jack lifting engine
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Passenger under weight of engine
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Passenger with jack lifting engine

Motor mounts good or bad? Seems like a VERY minor crack to cause such problems, but I'm no expert.
 
I would replace them. I'm assuming they've got 100k plus miles on them with no history of them having ever been changed? If so, I'd say it's time for some new motor mounts.
 
I would replace them. I'm assuming they've got 100k plus miles on them with no history of them having ever been changed? If so, I'd say it's time for some new motor mounts.
Yep, 102k on them, and no signs they've been changed.
 
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Well, I guess I have a motor mount lift, and body lift to add to the rms, oil pan gasket, and possibly another clutch lol

Jeeps... they just never never cut you a break. Ask me how I know ;)
 
Well, new clutch and flywheel are in. Problem solved. Could have gotten away with just the clutch, but since it was right there and I had the flywheel I just did both.

Clutch wasn't oily at all, but the friction plate wasn't making proper contact on the pressure plate. Less than half of the friction surface was making contact. Seems like I just got a bad clutch kit.

The photo of the pressure plate shows the shiny wear pattern around the outside edge.

Finally able to enjoy driving the jeep again!!!
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