What I’ve found with the smaller welders is how much a decent power supply is needed, run a 14 gauge 25’ extension cord and the welders capabilities drop drastically. Have it plugged in close to the electrical panel and they will weld much, much better.
Cracked lower control arm mount
- Thread starter Justin Homan
- Start date
Screw that, just weld the damn thing and be done with it. That crack is there because the mount got tagged at some point and straightened back out. It is old, it hasn't increased, it won't increase, and a small bit of weld will tune it right up in the only area that matters. It won't hurt your feelings any more.
The mount thickness is slightly more than 1/8". There is already more weld on there than 1/8" will ever need. I have Dana 60 mounts that are 1/4" that are only welded on one side and they never fail.
Turn the wire speed down, voltage up, go slower and it will weld just fine.
Yep, just because you can plug it into a 110 outlet, doesn't mean you can plug it into one 100 feet away with the extension cord that will barely support a small electric weed-eater.
Mine was plugged directly into the garage 110v socket with no extension cord.
You're definitely the welding expert but I assure you the Hobart's voltage was all the way up and it wasn't feeding too fast. It was a frustrating time while doing the 32RH conversion and I needed to move the transmission mount. Mine was an early 97 before the mount became relocatable. Are any of your daily use MIG welders 110v?
How far is you garage outlet away form the main electrical panel? I know in a warehouse I worked in we had a mini shop setup about 80-100’ feet away from the main panel and couldn’t weld there, had to drag any welding project a lot closer to the panel,
On the other side of the garage wall maybe 20' max away. Not to mention I would have easily noticed a voltage drop with the lighting I was using.
Not to mention the welding extension cord I made for my Miller is 10 gauge. I don't go small for shop electrical wiring.
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Just because I don't currently have a 110 Mig doesn't mean I didn't for many years. My plasma and Tig both run on 110. I welded miles of stuff with a little Lincoln 110 machine and small wire. I don't recommend them for the lesser skilled because they are hard to weld with.
Exactly. Not many can weld big pieces with a 110v MIG welder which is why I recommended a 220v. Not many here are expert welders. My welds hold together but I'll be damned if I'll ever purposely point them out to you lol.
P. S. I managed to get the mount welded to the skidplate with the 110v Hobart and it stayed put afterwards but it was frustrating and hard to get adequate penetration. That's when I figured out why everyone pushed me to go with a 220v welder.
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I’m not sure what to say other than mine would weld up to it’s limits without issue so long as it had decent a decent power source. I like your extension cord. My current welder is a Tweco 211i and I butchered a 25’ RV extension cord and used it to replace the original 6’ power cord, best welder mod ever, no fiddling with an extension cord anymore
Well, fortunately all of the 32RH swaps I've done had the 4 holes for the trans mount adapter that bolted up to the factory skid, no welding required.
You're fortunate. My early skidplate didn't have any of the access holes required for the 32RH mount. Drilling them out was a daunting thought until a friend who owned a large machining company suggested he mill them out for me which turned out beautifully. Moving the transmission mount was perhaps the most challenging part of the entire conversion.
I would have just snagged any of the 1000's of take off skid plates laying around and used it.
Well Mr. Blaine has good point...really when you hit something real hard it's going to wad up before it breaks usually.
As was said, this isn't bad at all. Recently, my Son went down in a hole with my Rubicon. The problem was, even though I told him not too, he turned wheel fully, pushed the tire against the mud bank and applied a heavy foot with the lockers engaged. The net result was half of the lower mount tore completely away from the axle. We strapped it, limped back to the office of the park we were wheeling at, beat it back into shape and welded it with a 110 welder.
We then wheeled for two more days with it like that and had no problems. Knowing this is a common weak link, we ultimately welded in new ARTEC mounts. Like Jerry said, I wouldn't show off my welds, but they held up just fine. On the flip side, this did make me start thinking about an on-board welder and improving my skills. This is what I removed!
We then wheeled for two more days with it like that and had no problems. Knowing this is a common weak link, we ultimately welded in new ARTEC mounts. Like Jerry said, I wouldn't show off my welds, but they held up just fine. On the flip side, this did make me start thinking about an on-board welder and improving my skills. This is what I removed!
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Fughuert
TJ Enthusiast
I did a couple brackets with stick, 90amps was plenty, pretty much any halfway decent 110 welder can handle, awful duty cycle but a homeowner doesn’t really need 100%.
Point being, don’t be scared away from using a 110 welder for simple stuff found on jeeps.
And unless you were maxing out the allowed settings on 110, 110 isn’t the problem. 220 will not weld any better with the same settings, just usually the duty cycle goes up.
Point being, don’t be scared away from using a 110 welder for simple stuff found on jeeps.
And unless you were maxing out the allowed settings on 110, 110 isn’t the problem. 220 will not weld any better with the same settings, just usually the duty cycle goes up.