Lol, okay. The wires being a different color adds a little weight to the 4.0 injector plugs being swapped in. When you get back to it whatever wire color it is now should have battery voltage in cavity 1 of all the injectors when the ASD is energized (or jumper installed when testing).
Crank But No Start
- Thread starter Sputter
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OP
Ok. Back at it but I am NOT messing with that manifold anymore.
I can get to two of the fuel injectors. I Jumpered the ASD relay again got 12 volts at each fuel injector. So let me see if I can summarize where we are on this.
I can get to two of the fuel injectors. I Jumpered the ASD relay again got 12 volts at each fuel injector. So let me see if I can summarize where we are on this.- PCM was previously sent out to a company and they said that it is functioning properly.
- CPS has been tested as good and it is sending and receiving voltage.
- ASD relay has been tested as good and getting power as expected but no spark or voltage to the fuel injectors
- When we jumper the ASD, the engine still does not start but the voltage to the coil and fuel injectors is good.
OP
OP
This is so weird. It used to run (poorly) and would start only after connecting the positive and negative leads. Since getting it back from the pcm repair, now it doesn’t start at all.
So if we have determined we have a signal to the injectors, should I use some starter spray? If it doesn’t start move onto the coil?
One thing I haven’t been able to figure out is how to test the signal to ground. Everything I’ve read says that is vital but I understand how to test that.
So if we have determined we have a signal to the injectors, should I use some starter spray? If it doesn’t start move onto the coil?
One thing I haven’t been able to figure out is how to test the signal to ground. Everything I’ve read says that is vital but I understand how to test that.
Electrical diagnostics is difficult to do through a forum as all I have to work with is what you tell me. Let’s start from the beginning. You stated no spark & no noid light activity. Reinstall the ASD. Remove the throttle body intake tube. Spray a small amount of starting fluid into the throttle body while someone cranks it over. See if it fires up.
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OP
No problem, that’s why we’re here. Install your noid light and see if you have consistent light activity.
OP
No light on the noid on #4? injector (one closest to the fan). Is there a specific noid model use? Engine seems like it is trying to start. Random ignition.
OP
That would be number 1 cylinder. As far as noid lights, just needs to plug into the harness.
lol, getting closer to the problem. Video isn’t working for me, can you pinpoint the location of the smell?
OP
Can’t pinpoint the smell. Also pulled spark plugs 1 & 4 and neither is sparking. 2 & 3 I can’t get to without taking off the throttle body.
OP
What do the plugs look like and what brand & number are they? What’s the history on this Jeep?
OP
History on this is that the original engine was blown. They stuck another 2.4 back into it. It’s been chopped up with different parts and pieces (e.g 4.0 injectors). It ran when I picked it but you had to connect the leads. Drove it home partially in limp mode but blew the radiator. Had it towed home where I replaced the radiator, fan relay, map sensor and transmission solenoid. Here’s a video of no spark.
OP
Lol, you have to ground the electrode (body of the plug) to test for spark.
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OP
Test the coils primary & secondary resistance.I knew that. I was testing you!Did I mention I am a noob? Same thing grounded out. No spark.https://youtu.be/DFAJ3bjhvgc
OP
That’s not how you test it. Do it like this. Remember you have two coils in that coil pack to test and four coil towers.
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