Currectlync tie rod end boot size

Crasse

New Member
Original poster
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Messages
16
Location
Hilo
Anyone know the size of the tie rod end boot that I will need if I decide to do a Polyurethane bushing instead of a rubber bushing. I live in Hawaii and to ship the Currie rubber replacement to me will cost $40 for the shipping alone! So if I can pick up something from Prothane or energy Suspension via Amazon that would be so much better.
 
Hey guys so I have another question. Starting to feel like an idiot on this subject. So I followed the instruction of Currie and installed that taper sleeve from teraflex into my knuckle. Once installed I noticed it didn't really change the placement of how high the cotter pin sits above the crown of the castle nut. now after driving my jeep for a day I noticed the cotter pin has twisted about 90 degrees. Anyone on this forum know as to why that would happen? (First image is after driving for a day, second image is once installed) Balljoint torque specs via currie said 55 ft lbs. Anti seize was placed on the bolt so wet torque was set at 38ft lbs.

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That cotter pin isn't really doing anything since it's not engaged in the teeth of the castle nut like it should.
So is that why the balljoint is now spinning? Will this affect short drivability of my Jeep? Also would a simple fix be just getting a deeper castle nut?
 
So is that why the balljoint is now spinning? Will this affect short drivability of my Jeep? Also would a simple fix be just getting a deeper castle nut?
Yes, though I'm not sure why they aren't lining up. I didn't have that problem when I installed my Currectlync, though I still had the stock taper in the knuckle. Some washers under the nut would also work as a quick fix.
 
I needed to replace the boot on my Currie drag link when it got pinched during installation. I wasn't happy when RockJock listed the shipping at $14 for two. I was a lot happier when they only charged $7. Perhaps you would have a similar experience.