Custom length fixed control arms

Bighammer

Bighammer

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 6, 2021
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105
Location
Oregon Coast
I’m trying to see the big picture here. So I understand that the adjustable control arms are optimum b/c of the ability to fine-tune, set pinion angle and camber, and have the ability change lift heights later on, etc. etc.

..But if I’ve decided on a specific lift height, can I get the correct (longer) arms w/o the need for adjustability to match the new lift? Isn’t that what normally comes in a ”kit”?

Im thinking about installing a set of BDS 3” springs, and Rancho shocks.. I’m driving an LJ, it’s not going to be a rock crawler, but I’ll be camping, hunting, sand dunes, off roading, etc, but nothing extreme. I want 32“ tires for ground clearance. Will I be needing to replace my control arms? if so, which ones? Thanks so much guys.
 
Every Jeep is a bit different, that's why people generally buy adjustable arms. A 3" lift on one Jeep is a 3.5" on another, the frame welds are all a bit different, everything isn't quite exact. That's why you wont find specs for control arm lengths. You can get away with fixed length arms but generally they are poor quality. I'd take a look at the zone off road kit for an inexpensive way to lift your Jeep without adjustable arms. My opinion is you should stick with stock arms and work around that like the zone kit does or spend the money on adjustable arms like Savvy or Rock-Jock.
 
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I run stock arms with a 3" suspension lift and they work for my needs. Better than most fixed arms IMO. Flexible and cheap ($22) to replace if you bend one.
p.s. When I had 32s on my old 98', I ran BDS 2" springs and a BL.
Rubi 7 13 21.jpg
 
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Another vote for keeping the Factory arms. For a 32" tire, I'd run a 2" spring and a 1" or so body lift. Factory arms, shouldn't need an SYE, Maybe throw some disco on there.

TBH, I ran 32's (factory JK take-offs) on my stock rubicon with only a 3/4" spacer lift and discos. It wasn't terrible...Sometimes...I wish I had just stopped there!

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The lift height is only one factor when considering control arms. The belly height is another variable that impacts where you set them. The stock belly pan hangs way down, but some kits lower that even more, mitigating the need to adjust the arms. IMHO, this is one of the dumbest things you can do.

On the other end of the spectrum is the Savvy belly pan. This pushes the transfer case up almost to the point where it touches the tub, with a 231, and generally into the tub with the larger 241 case. This extreme change in driveshaft angle requires adjustable arms. There are many variations in between the two, as well as custom fully flat pans.

Beyond a range of belly heights, the driveshaft length changes things as well. The longer shaft is more forgiving, which is why many TJ owners go with a Super Short SYE. As @pagrey stated, Jeeps vary and you can't design set length arms around the variability. This is exactly why many companies make adjustable arms.

Bottom line, a lot depends on your lift, belly height, and driveshaft length. If you're keeping the lift low, belly pan stock, 32" tires, and have an LJ, the stock arms will suffice.
 
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