Dana 30 Auto Locker Questions

SvtLdr said:
I'm with you there. Hopefully the OP isn't under the misconception that, on the subject obstacle, locking the front is going to provide unlimited traction.
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Not quite, in the video I have one of the front wheels is on a slick spot spinning. The other wheel is not spinning and in the grass. Am I thinking wrong or would a front locker help in this situation? (I’m honestly not entirely sure.) Also, most of the times i’ve been stuck was in a muddy creek crossing in my old YJ it was after I was halfway through and didn’t have enough traction up front to help pull my rear tires through the mud. A front locker is my only option right now so that’d be better than open front and back, right?
 
DEValken said:
Front Aussie on a Dana 30, open Dana 35 rear. I hear the clicking when I'm turning slow (with doors off, not so slow), but it doesn't bother me as much as it does the folks watching me in the drive-thru (people will stop and look).

We get a little snow here most winters and I haven't had a problem in 4wd. Driving in the snow anytime you do something fast, bad things happen. Coast thru corners, easy on the stops and starts, keep speed down, etc.

Makes a huge difference on what I was able to do on our trails.

One day I'll have that Super 35 and a real 4 wheel drive vehicle.
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Pretty much what I’m thinking, if it snows enough I need 4wd on the road, I shouldn’t be going fast enough to be in danger.
 
Camodude622 said:
Pretty much what I’m thinking, if it snows enough I need 4wd on the road, I shouldn’t be going fast enough to be in danger.
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The Wrangler has a part-time 4x4 system which is suitable primarily (and meant for) for offroad use and, perhaps, paved road use if it is COVERED in snow. But on icy-anything, paved road or an icy trail, a part-time 4x4 is absolutely an unsafe dicey type of 4x4 system to use. The reason is the front and rear axles are mechanically locked together so the front and rear tires are in lock-step with each other and won't allow differentiation on turns or curves. That is an invitation to skid/slid/wipe out.

The type of 4x4 system meant for icy/slick roads is a full-time system. The front and rear axles are not locked together, they connect via a differential between them that allows the front and rear tires to rotate at different speeds so the tires won't tend to slide/spin out on a slick/icy/snow-covered paved road. Only Cherokees, Grand Cherokees, Liberties, etc. all have full-time 4x4 systems that make them suitable for driving on slick paved roads. There are no full-time 4x4 systems that ever came in a Wrangler.
 
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Camodude622 said:
Not quite, in the video I have one of the front wheels is on a slick spot spinning. The other wheel is not spinning and in the grass. Am I thinking wrong or would a front locker help in this situation? (I’m honestly not entirely sure.) Also, most of the times i’ve been stuck was in a muddy creek crossing in my old YJ it was after I was halfway through and didn’t have enough traction up front to help pull my rear tires through the mud. A front locker is my only option right now so that’d be better than open front and back, right?
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Crossing a flat muddy section is different than climbing a slick hill. Think of where traction is needed most when the vehicle's weight is transferred via the suspension.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
The Wrangler has a part-time 4x4 system which is suitable primarily (and meant for) for offroad use and, perhaps, paved road use if it is COVERED in snow. But on icy-anything, paved road or an icy trail, a part-time 4x4 is absolutely an unsafe dicey type of 4x4 system to use. The reason is the front and rear axles are mechanically locked together so the front and rear tires are in lock-step with each other and won't allow differentiation on turns or curves. That is an invitation to skid/slid/wipe out.

The type of 4x4 system meant for icy/slick roads is a full-time system. The front and rear axles are not locked together, they connect via a differential between them that allows the front and rear tires to rotate at different speeds so the tires won't tend to slide/spin out on a slick/icy/snow-covered paved road. Only Cherokees, Grand Cherokees, Liberties, etc. all have full-time 4x4 systems that make them suitable for driving on slick paved roads. There are no full-time 4x4 systems that ever came in a Wrangler.
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Yep, I was just saying that anytime there’s ice on the road or deep snow I will be driving slowly enough that incase I slip or slide around I won’t be in any danger.
 
SvtLdr said:
Crossing a flat muddy section is different than climbing a slick hill. Think of where traction is needed most when the vehicle's weight is transferred via the suspension.
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Okay so for rocks or going more vertical you would say rear, right? What would you say for mud? And if my only option is a front locker would it be better or worse than nothing?
 
Camodude622 said:
Okay so for rocks or going more vertical you would say rear, right? What would you say for mud? And if my only option is a front locker would it be better or worse than nothing?
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You're asking a question that's based more on opinion than you realize. I have front and rear selectable lockers. I use my rear locker more often than both lockers. I can't think of an instance where I've used only the front locker without the rear. This is my particular driving style. You'll find others here who will advise the opposite of what I'm saying.

I posed a question to you previously about certain scenarios and weight transfer vs. traction. I'd recommend you evaluate that in light of your wheeling demands. This discussion began with you wanting to conquer a slick climb...
 
Why do you persist that a rear locker is out of the question? I realize that comes with a larger price tag. How much are you willing to spend to build a well-balanced rig?
 
I have a Detroit auto in my stock 30 and Detroit auto in the rear S35 running 33s. I have been told the Detroit may not be the best if I go to 35s in that stock 30.
In 2wd it is 100% undetectable, in 4wd it has climbed up, through and over everything like a billy goat.
Other than others talking about the flex in the Dana 30 and the strength of the detroit maybe causing an issues I haven't had a single issue and no ratcheting in 2wd. I guess I do need to say not recommend in 4wd on ice🤣
 
Jerry Bransford said:
You could upgrade that 35 with a Super 35 kit which would give it 30 spline 1541H axle shafts that are slightly stronger than the OE carbon steel axle shafts in a Dana 44. Super 35 kits come with a choice of a couple lockers which includes the ARB Air Locker and Eaton E-Locker selectables.
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He said he doesn't want to spend selectable locker money, much less S35+selectable locker money.
 
SvtLdr said:
Why do you persist that a rear locker is out of the question? I realize that comes with a larger price tag. How much are you willing to spend to build a well-balanced rig?
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An axle swap, selectable lockers, or a super 35 kit is all out of the question for me right now. If I had the money I would’ve bought a c5 corvette 🤣
 
SvtLdr said:
You're asking a question that's based more on opinion than you realize. I have front and rear selectable lockers. I use my rear locker more often than both lockers. I can't think of an instance where I've used only the front locker without the rear. This is my particular driving style. You'll find others here who will advise the opposite of what I'm saying.

I posed a question to you previously about certain scenarios and weight transfer vs. traction. I'd recommend you evaluate that in light of your wheeling demands. This discussion began with you wanting to conquer a slick climb...
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Definitely a different terrain than I’ll be spending my time in, just wanting to expand my knowledge and see what helps where.
 
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