Dana 30 Lunch Box (No-slip) Locker Install Advice

[Thumper4fun]

Getting ready to install a Powertrax No-Slip locker into my Dana 30 and I need all the tips and tricks I can get. I've watched a few videos and it appears it will be necessary to remove the bearing caps and pull out the carrier & ring gear even thought the instructions that come with the No-Slip locker say you can install the locker with the carrier in place. If this is the case I worry about screwing up my gear setup, is this a valid concern? So looking for advice from those that have experience installing a lunch box locker in a Dana 30. Any and all advice appreciated

A little background: Installed 4:10 gears a little over a year ago so all the bearings, seals, etc are new. However, the original u-joints have not been replaced. Not sure if I need to do these or not. My big issue with replacing the u-joints is I don't have access to a press.

 

[CharlesHS]

You will need to pull the axles out partially to allow for the spider gears to be replaced with the No Slip. The locker will put stress on the U joints and wear them quicker than an open or limited slip carrier. Since you are partially pulling the axles and the U joints are more than likely are originals; this would be an ideal time to replace the U joints.
The installation of the No-Slip will not affect the ring and pinion setup.
IF you are doing the installation yourself; I would suggest soaking the 13mm unit bearing bolts with PB Blaster to make their removal easier.

 

[S.McArthur]

I had to pull the carrier so the pinion shaft would clear the ring gear. I had 3.73 gears at the time though, you may not need to remove the carrier with 4.10 gears. If you have to remove the carrier, just pay attention/mark the bearing caps and install the same way. You may need to give the carrier a little love to get it out.
Assemble the locker on your bench dry to get a feel for how it goes in, the spring assembly is crucial, don't wait to figure that out as you are trying to install.
You will do not have to remove the shafts all the way, just enough to allow the carrier to spin. It is not difficult, it will take you more time getting to the carrier than it will to install the locker.
U-joints are your decision, or maybe time for a new set!?! There are other ways to knock out the u-joints, but have a higher chance of screwing something up.

 

[JMT]

The key is putting everything back in place exactly as it was, including in the same orientation and proper torque specs. It’s hard to mess up if you are careful.

when you remove the carrier bearing cap bolts, take a picture before. Then set them so you cannot mix them up. They must go back in the same orientation. When you put them back on torque to 55 ft-lbs.

when you pry the carrier out, you’ll want to provide something soft for it to fall on, if it falls out. A bunched up towel or spongy mat.

You’ll have to remove the ring gear from the carrier in order to remove the pin so you can remove the spider gears. You’ll need a large jaw vice to hold it while removing the ring gear. After install of the noslip, bolt it back down on the carrier, using blue loctite. thread each one on, then work each one down working in a cross pattern and torque to 60 ft-lb.

Test the locker to make sure it’s working. you should be good to go!

 

[fuse]

However, the original u-joints have not been replaced. Not sure if I need to do these or not. My big issue with replacing the u-joints is I don't have access to a press.

Everyone else here has good suggestions on how to install the locker. I just did my front u-joints, and you can get the job done with a big hammer and a ball joint press. No need to buy the ball joint press — you can get this as a loaner from most auto parts stores.

This site has good instructions and some tips on how to make using the ball joint press easier. https://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/Dana 30/axle-1.htm

Also, there's a trick for removing a stuck unit bearing by wedging a socket in behind it and using the steering as leverage to press it out. I can't find the link to it right now, though.

 

[whitrzac]

I would sugest something other than the no-slip. I had 3 defective Dana 30 ones in a row last year. The pins that were pressed into them were to large, causing them to crack.

My Dana 44 one has been fine...

 

[Jerry Bransford]

No-Slip issues are extremely rare, I've only seen 1-2 people in the past 20 years complain about them. Mine had no issues.

 

[DEValken]

Me commenting on something like this is akin to bringing a soup can of sand to the beach... but here are some things I learned on mine (most from here, lol) -

I used a deep-well socket on the bottom front bolt of the unit and turned the steering wheel until the socket hit and it only took a little pressure to pop it out. Removed the other two bolts first (duh) and left the front bolt connected to the unit with a full set of threads. Be careful not the push to hard with the steering - once it popped free it slid out the rest of the way pretty easy.

Place a box-end wrench on a ring gear bolt and rotate the yoke when you go to remove the carrier. One way will bring the carrier in and lock up, the other way will push the carrier out with a little effort. As mentioned, have something under it to cushion the fall if it slips. I was able to reach behind and turn the yoke with a hand on it, YMMV.

The roll pin only comes out one way - I needed a punch with a little more shaft to get it far enough out to pull the pin.

My case is marked with 2 "H"s- one horizontal and one vertical. The caps were marked the same. Not sure if this is Dana standard or not.

HTH

 

[whitrzac]

No-Slip issues are extremely rare, I've only seen 1-2 people in the past 20 years complain about them. Mine had no issues.

Just because something was a good product, doesn't mean it still is.

 

[pagrey]

My big issue with replacing the u-joints is I don't have access to a press.

You don't need and some would argue you don't want to use a press. Just bang them out, it is much better on the yokes. The factory joints are probably fine but replacements should only be the good Spicer ones, nothing else will hold up long. Consider a power steering cooler and generally prepare yourself for a whining power steering pump and worn out and busted u-joints on the trail, these things aren't all roses.