Deathwobble

[ChristopherD]

So some of y'all helped me out with the harsh ride with my tj I've had a week now. PSI being the main problem. Someone pointed out that the steering stabilizer was in the wrong location, so I removed it to see what other shenanigans the previous owner may have been trying to cover up. Low and behold, DEATHWOBBLE. It only happened once, and I drove a total of about 25 miles that day. I had noticed a pop sound (driver's front) most noticeably when turning in reverse backing into the driveway through the gutter. Just that little bit of flex would bring about that pop. I had my brother in law watch all the components while I recreated the sound but he couldn't see anything move. Does this show any definite signs to y'all as to what the problem definitely is? Thanks in advance

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Removing the steering stabilizer did not cause the Death Wobble, it was only temporarily suppressing it. Death Wobble is never caused by or cured by a steering stabilizer. Where DW is concerned, installing a SS to cure it is like placing a band-aid on a Melanoma skin cancer. You don't see/notice the problem any more but it's still there and it's going to stay there until it is cured.

The usual cause of DW is a combination of things, usually from an imperfectly balanced tire and something loose in the front end... commonly the track bar.

An imperfectly balanced tire is, in my experience and experience, the most common cause of DW. Even right after they were balanced, because few tire shops get big Jeep-size tires balanced well enough to prevent DW. Usually they're only given enough time to balance to get them to what is usually "good enough" for small car tires but is usually never good enough for big Jeep-size tires. I have had to visit my local Discount Tire store THREE times in one day before they finally figured out they had to spend more time on my tires to get them perfect.

Before or right after you get your tires balanced, do what's called a dry steering test. With the tires on the ground, have a helper repeatedly turn the steering wheel back in short fast movements while you watch the steering system closely. Look for side-to-side movement where things are bolted together.... there should be none. Particularly watch the track bar for movement during the test, it should not move at all where it is bolted at both ends. Anything loose in the front-end can cause DW. The worse the tire balance, the more apt even something barely loose can allow DW to develop.

To me, an out of balance tire is the usual 'trigger' for DW. Having something loose in the front-end then allows that triggering event to develop into full-blown DW. But make no mistake, a badly out of balance tire can cause DW on its own when nothing is loose in the front end.

Know too that the tie rod and drag link are mounted on ball joints so while they shouldn't have side-to-side slop where they are bolted into place, their ball joints make it possible so they can be rotated about their long axis.

 

[ChristopherD]

Removing the steering stabilizer did not cause the Death Wobble, it was only temporarily suppressing it. Death Wobble is never caused by or cured by a steering stabilizer. Where DW is concerned, installing a SS to cure it is like placing a band-aid on a Melanoma skin cancer. You don't see/notice the problem any more but it's still there and it's going to stay there until it is cured.

The usual cause of DW is a combination of things, usually from an imperfectly balanced tire and something loose in the front end... commonly the track bar.

An imperfectly balanced tire is, in my experience and experience, the most common cause of DW. Even right after they were balanced, because few tire shops get big Jeep-size tires balanced well enough to prevent DW. Usually they're only given enough time to balance to get them to what is usually "good enough" for small car tires but is usually never good enough for big Jeep-size tires. I have had to visit my local Discount Tire store THREE times in one day before they finally figured out they had to spend more time on my tires to get them perfect.

Before or right after you get your tires balanced, do what's called a dry steering test. With the tires on the ground, have a helper repeatedly turn the steering wheel back in short fast movements while you watch the steering system closely. Look for side-to-side movement where things are bolted together.... there should be none. Particularly watch the track bar for movement during the test, it should not move at all where it is bolted at both ends. Anything loose in the front-end can cause DW. The worse the tire balance, the more apt even something barely loose can allow DW to develop.

To me, an out of balance tire is the usual 'trigger' for DW. Having something loose in the front-end then allows that triggering event to develop into full-blown DW. But make no mistake, a badly out of balance tire can cause DW on its own when nothing is loose in the front end.

Know too that the tie rod and drag link are mounted on ball joints so while they shouldn't have side-to-side slop where they are bolted into place, their ball joints make it possible so they can be rotated about their long axis.

View attachment 79978

I didn't say I blamed the steering stabilizer for the DW. I know it can temporarily cover up something else that causes DW though. Took it off and there is DW. And the only thing I have to go off of is the popping sound while in reverse and turning through a gutter

 

[Dcook65]

I put four new tie rod ends and a new track bar on mine. A week later I got that popping noise. Had my wife turn steering back and forth. Saw the track bar popping at the axle mount. Tightened down the bolt really tight. No more pop.

 

[ChristopherD]

Literally just sat down from having the wife turn the wheel for me. Here's what I found. The passenger side tie rod end is loose in the tie rod. I would assume that's why it's got DW. And the popping is coming from either the knuckle on the steering rod behind the steering box, or from the steering box itself