What would you gentlemen (and ladies) consider a decent price for a functional/usable M416 trailer? Something about like this (ignore the wheels and tires)...
Decent price for an M416 trailer?
- Thread starter chili_pepper
- Start date
Lots o' rust on that one.
How much repair is the tub going to need?
In my area (N GA) you can get one in better shape than that one for ~$1200 and one that is in great shape with a lid for $2800.
$1200 M416
$2800 M416
How much repair is the tub going to need?
In my area (N GA) you can get one in better shape than that one for ~$1200 and one that is in great shape with a lid for $2800.
$1200 M416
$2800 M416
$850 for this one. $500 for the one you posted.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:c07ff6f1-1856-4777-b5db-99ccfc44ac44
https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:c07ff6f1-1856-4777-b5db-99ccfc44ac44
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OP
Indeed, but not the worst I've seen by far.
Seller claims it's solid, no idea as I haven't seen it in person. Not incredibly impressed with it based on the photos. That said, it's the closest one I could find. Not on FB so don't see anything listed there.
Damn shame they aren't closer to me geographically.
They're asking $2000, located south of Pittsburgh, PA (which might well explain the rust). It needs new tires and has a 4" lift on it, which is useless to me and would have to be removed. And those wheels are shit...
500 bucks and a 20 piece nugget&large fry for that rusty thing
800 if it's actually solid and the rust I'm seeing is just surface rust,not scale and rot!
Edit- I feel like i was ignorant the 1st time with the prices so I changed em....
800 if it's actually solid and the rust I'm seeing is just surface rust,not scale and rot!
Edit- I feel like i was ignorant the 1st time with the prices so I changed em....
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I started out looking for an M416, but the insane prices for junk turned me off.
The prices have come down somewhat but are still too much for what you get.
So I built my own.
WAAYYY under $1000 total.
The prices have come down somewhat but are still too much for what you get.
So I built my own.
WAAYYY under $1000 total.
Also check around for the Canadian M-101’s, not US M-101.
They are an updated version of the M-416 built in I believe 1992 and are 1/4 ton.
I bought one in near mint condition back in 2006/2007 time frame when Canada sold them off.
Have 33” TSL swampers on it plus an original camo cover. Great for hauling camping gear.
They are an updated version of the M-416 built in I believe 1992 and are 1/4 ton.
I bought one in near mint condition back in 2006/2007 time frame when Canada sold them off.
Have 33” TSL swampers on it plus an original camo cover. Great for hauling camping gear.
This is what I am probably going to end up doing.
Of course it will be a year or so down the road.
Got way to much going on.
I just got an M416 for $800. It's completely original, tires, lights, everything. It's got surface rust but nothing serious. Every fastener has come loose with no issues. It's a little rough otherwise but not bad.
A club member just sold a really nice one all painted, titled, canvas cover, for around $2k. And many are asking even more for just a tiny trailer.
A club member just sold a really nice one all painted, titled, canvas cover, for around $2k. And many are asking even more for just a tiny trailer.
Prices for M416 and other military 1/4 ton trailers vary widely. Rust buckets and beaters can be acquired for $1,000 or so, less if the trailer is really rusty or beat up, missing pieces, or if the owner doesn't know what they have. Fully restored 1/4 ton trailers and "resto-mods" can and do go for much more.
Bear in mind that buying a cheap trailer that needs a lot of work will likely turn out to be more expensive than a $1,500-$2,000 trailer that doesn't need the work, especially if it is missing original parts. The current range for a decent restoration candidate without severe rust damage appears to be $1,500-$2,000 for a Bantam T3-C (civilian version with factory tailgate), $1,200-$2,000 for a T3 or MBT (WWII era military version), the same for a Korean War vintage M100, a bit less for a Vietnam era M416.
I own a restored 1946 Bantam T3-C with a rare 1946 California "year of manufacture" trailer plate and provenance that can be traced to the original owner. (My father was the second owner; the original owner was a local citrus rancher and member of the Drifters Jeep Club in Pomona CA.) If I were to sell it, which is unlikely, the bidding would start at $4,500-$5.000.
Bear in mind that buying a cheap trailer that needs a lot of work will likely turn out to be more expensive than a $1,500-$2,000 trailer that doesn't need the work, especially if it is missing original parts. The current range for a decent restoration candidate without severe rust damage appears to be $1,500-$2,000 for a Bantam T3-C (civilian version with factory tailgate), $1,200-$2,000 for a T3 or MBT (WWII era military version), the same for a Korean War vintage M100, a bit less for a Vietnam era M416.
I own a restored 1946 Bantam T3-C with a rare 1946 California "year of manufacture" trailer plate and provenance that can be traced to the original owner. (My father was the second owner; the original owner was a local citrus rancher and member of the Drifters Jeep Club in Pomona CA.) If I were to sell it, which is unlikely, the bidding would start at $4,500-$5.000.
OP
Good tip, though they seem to be more hen's teeth than the M416. I do like the improvements in the CDN M101's design. The US M101 feels too big for Jeep usage IMHO.
OP
Very nice job on the trailer, but this illustrates well one of the issues I'm encountering. Many have modified these for camping and sell them kitted out, I actually just want the trailer (to use as a trailer) and have no interest in a tent, rack, etc., all of which serve to jack up the purchase price.
The U.S. M101 is a completely different trailer designed for a much larger tow vehicle. It is too heavy for a jeep,
Everything on my trailer is designed in a manner such that it can be unbolted and the trailer returned to 100% original. There has been more than one occasion when we have removed all the gear so that we could use the trailer to haul firewood, soil, etc.
There are as many and perhaps more bare utility trailers for sale than there are "kitted out" offerings, although there is certainly no shortage of sellers who spent too much restoring their trailers, followed by spending far too much on the latest and greatest camping equipment, who now want astronomical sums for their "curated" gear.
Personally, I would never buy anything from anyone who uses affectations like "kitted" in their sale listing unless they are actually British with epaulets on their shirt, or "curated" unless they work at a museum or an art gallery.
Be patient. You will find the right trailer.
I can attest to the truth of this, and it wasn't even a mil trailer! Didn't want to pay $850 at Blowes for a Carry-On, so I paid $350. It turned into more of a project than I had anticipated or wanted - by the time I was done, it cost me a total of - wait for it - $850 and a shit ton of my time. Granted, I got exactly what I wanted but...
If you're looking for a trailer for general use the width of the bed is important. I didn't look at M416 trailers that seriously but I think they are less than 48" wide which makes things a bit tougher for sheet materials (plywood, drywall, etc.). I built a utility trailer about 10 years ago and made the bed 4'x8' plus 2 additional inches in each direction so sheet material could fit totally inside the box. It works well for that purpose.
I built another trailer that doubles as a utility trailer and although the width is the same (48" + 2") the length wasn't as important. I went with 6'. The bed sides are 16" and with the tailgate lowered to flat it works fine for sheet material. I built it primarily for camping but it's also for utility use and it can haul an ATV with the RTT off. I also built in 2,000 lb. winch for hauling heavy items into the bed; a garden tractor, snow blower, broken down ATV for example.
I'm building a tear drop trailer now and this one (described above - shown below) will go. I'll sell it with all the "stuff" but hopefully it will appeal to someone for general use too.
This is the route I went. Fiberglass is lighter but less robust than the traditional steel panels.