Decision on Seized Bleeder Screw - Front Driver Side

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cash

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We were replacing the brake fluid as a part of the maintenance schedule and the driver front bleed valve was rounded over and seized. All others worked fine.

I recently overhauled the rear drum brakes (wheel cylinders were leaking and parking brake was inoperable) and am now about to replace the front brake pads and rotors.

Would it be advisable to just replace the caliper with one from O'Reilly's while I am in there?

Or would it be better to replace both front calipers to keep them the same?

I saw a video of a way to fill the bleeder screw hole with a metal pin to help remove and replace it. Maybe that would be advisable first?

Or would you just leave it on there without bleeding that brake ever?

No telling when the last time it was done.

200k miles but brakes well.
 
Do what Jerry said but allow the exposed threads to soak in Kroil as long as you can. If you are successful in removing the bleed screw carefully apply a thin layer of Never Seize to the exposed threads. As part of a good PM program it's a good idea to apply a couple of drops of Kroil with an eye dropper to the exposed threads. The bleeder screws do not have to be clench ass tight. There is a You Tube video that shows a close fitting drill bit inserted into the bleeder hole to provide some support when using vice grips of pliers to remove it. There are other You Tube videos that may help. Good luck.
 
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Thanks y’all, I couldn’t get the screw out so just replaced both calipers and soft lines, which probably needed to be done anyway. It was actually a much easier process than I had anticipated. Should be good for a while now!
 
cash said:
Thanks y’all, I couldn’t get the screw out so just replaced both calipers and soft lines, which probably needed to be done anyway. It was actually a much easier process than I had anticipated. Should be good for a while now!
Click to expand...

While they are nice and new, apply a small amount of Never Se
cash said:
Thanks y’all, I couldn’t get the screw out so just replaced both calipers and soft lines, which probably needed to be done anyway. It was actually a much easier process than I had anticipated. Should be good for a while now!
Click to expand...

Sometimes that is the easier option. Had a similar problem and was going to rebuild the calipers. The rebuild kit cost $16.00 per and a remanufactured caliper cost $34.00 with the old core. It was a no brainer. Before installing the new calipers I removed both bleed screws and applied a thin layer of Never Seize to threads. Future bleeding should not be a problem.
 
While you are busy changing out calipers, install a set of Russel Speed-Bleeders as well. It's money well spent, especially if you do most of your wrenching alone. Bleeding brakes, all the way around takes just a very few minutes!

If you've never used them, here's a link:

Amazon- Russel Speed Bleeders 639590

Our TJ's use the same size bleeder for both the front calipers, and the rear drum wheel cylinders. Makes it simple, and it's $30 well spent over the life of your ride!
 
Little late but one of my bleeder valves was seized up and I heated it with a soldering torch for about 30 sec the sprayed cold water on it. Did that a couple times and it came right off. Just keep a fire extinguisher handy cause open flame and you never know
 
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