My last weekend project was an interior cargo rack for my LJ. Additional photos are at the end of this post.
Design Goals:
I wanted something to fit behind the factory rear seat that will allow me to access my trail box, tools, repair parts, fluids, trail box, etc. without having to pull everything out to get to an item on the bottom. I also wanted to be able to open my cooler at lunchtime without having to remove gear to access it. The rack needed to be quickly and easily removed and not weigh a ton. I also wanted to keep the cost of materials low in case my design was a major fail.
Materials List:
28', 3/4"square tube, 16 ga.
4', 1 1/2" angle, 1/8" thick
2', 1 1/2" flat stock, 1/8" thick
1 can, Rust-Oleum Universal Hammered Spray Paint, Black
Dimensions:
40" wide x 17" deep x 22 1/2" tall (from floor to bottom of rack)
Notes re Dimensions:
The 22 1/2" leg height allows two Frontrunner Wolfpack storage boxes with high lids to fit underneath. However, with the factory rear seat in place one cannot stack the Wolfpack boxes due to the 20" length of the top box interfering with the angled rear glass of the factory hardtop. (It is not an issue if the rear seat is folded forward or removed because the Wolfpack boxes can be anchored farther forward.) Not to be defeated, I switched gears and used a standard 13" x 19" x 11" high milk crate as a trail box on the bottom with a smaller 13" x 13" x 11" high milk crate on top which holds my camp kitchen gear. The smaller box on top eliminates any clearance issues with the rear glass.
The 17" depth allows 1 1/2" clearance from the rear glass. If I were to do it over again I would reduce the depth to 16".
The 40" width allows me to reach around the sides of the rack without having to squeeze past the roll bar. I had originally planned to make the rack 36" wide but 40" looked better and I had no shortage of material because I had to buy two 20' "sticks" of 3/4" square tube even though the project only requires 28'. (I have another use for the excess.)
Construction:
The rack itself is a simple 40" x 17" rectangle with 3 cross bars. The leg assemblies are 22 1/2" high x 12" wide, with angle at the top and bottom and a piece of 1 1/2" flat stock across the middle about 9" up from the bottom for lateral support. the leg assemblies were bolted in place in the jeep and the rack set on top to mark the location, then everything was removed and welded together. Barely visible in the second and second to last photos on the left side is a gusset at the top of the leg assembly to increase rigidity. There is s similar gusset on the right side.
Securing the Rack:
The leg assemblies slide in tightly. All that is required to secure the rack in place is 2 bolts per side through holes drilled through the 1 1/2" flat stock and the tub.
Weight and Load Capacity:
The finished rack weighs a bit less than 25 lbs. Its purpose is to secure bag chairs, sleeping bags, tents and other relatively lightweight items. Although a quantitative load test has not been performed, we did strap 100 lbs. of weightlifting plates to the rack with the rack installed in the jeep, far more than the rack will ever carry, then tried to bend, twist and warp the rack and legs. We couldn't.
Additional Photos:
Hope my project gives you some ideas for your own interior cargo rack.
EDIT: 17 June 2022
Here are some additional photos showing the gear I usually take for an extended trip and how it packs:
The gear behind the driver's seat:
Sometimes I take a Kodiak Canvas one-person bedroll/swag tent, which fits on the back seat. One of my goals was to avoid having to remove the rear seat. I pack around it instead. This shot also shows the unobstructed view out the rear window with everything packed:
.
Design Goals:
I wanted something to fit behind the factory rear seat that will allow me to access my trail box, tools, repair parts, fluids, trail box, etc. without having to pull everything out to get to an item on the bottom. I also wanted to be able to open my cooler at lunchtime without having to remove gear to access it. The rack needed to be quickly and easily removed and not weigh a ton. I also wanted to keep the cost of materials low in case my design was a major fail.
Materials List:
28', 3/4"square tube, 16 ga.
4', 1 1/2" angle, 1/8" thick
2', 1 1/2" flat stock, 1/8" thick
1 can, Rust-Oleum Universal Hammered Spray Paint, Black
Dimensions:
40" wide x 17" deep x 22 1/2" tall (from floor to bottom of rack)
Notes re Dimensions:
The 22 1/2" leg height allows two Frontrunner Wolfpack storage boxes with high lids to fit underneath. However, with the factory rear seat in place one cannot stack the Wolfpack boxes due to the 20" length of the top box interfering with the angled rear glass of the factory hardtop. (It is not an issue if the rear seat is folded forward or removed because the Wolfpack boxes can be anchored farther forward.) Not to be defeated, I switched gears and used a standard 13" x 19" x 11" high milk crate as a trail box on the bottom with a smaller 13" x 13" x 11" high milk crate on top which holds my camp kitchen gear. The smaller box on top eliminates any clearance issues with the rear glass.
The 17" depth allows 1 1/2" clearance from the rear glass. If I were to do it over again I would reduce the depth to 16".
The 40" width allows me to reach around the sides of the rack without having to squeeze past the roll bar. I had originally planned to make the rack 36" wide but 40" looked better and I had no shortage of material because I had to buy two 20' "sticks" of 3/4" square tube even though the project only requires 28'. (I have another use for the excess.)
Construction:
The rack itself is a simple 40" x 17" rectangle with 3 cross bars. The leg assemblies are 22 1/2" high x 12" wide, with angle at the top and bottom and a piece of 1 1/2" flat stock across the middle about 9" up from the bottom for lateral support. the leg assemblies were bolted in place in the jeep and the rack set on top to mark the location, then everything was removed and welded together. Barely visible in the second and second to last photos on the left side is a gusset at the top of the leg assembly to increase rigidity. There is s similar gusset on the right side.
Securing the Rack:
The leg assemblies slide in tightly. All that is required to secure the rack in place is 2 bolts per side through holes drilled through the 1 1/2" flat stock and the tub.
Weight and Load Capacity:
The finished rack weighs a bit less than 25 lbs. Its purpose is to secure bag chairs, sleeping bags, tents and other relatively lightweight items. Although a quantitative load test has not been performed, we did strap 100 lbs. of weightlifting plates to the rack with the rack installed in the jeep, far more than the rack will ever carry, then tried to bend, twist and warp the rack and legs. We couldn't.
Additional Photos:
Hope my project gives you some ideas for your own interior cargo rack.
EDIT: 17 June 2022
Here are some additional photos showing the gear I usually take for an extended trip and how it packs:
The gear behind the driver's seat:
Sometimes I take a Kodiak Canvas one-person bedroll/swag tent, which fits on the back seat. One of my goals was to avoid having to remove the rear seat. I pack around it instead. This shot also shows the unobstructed view out the rear window with everything packed:
.
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