Hello everyone, I have a new to me 2005 jeep LJ that i am looking to raptor line. I have never done this before and was looking for some more experienced insight. Any help would be much appreciated.
Does anyone have any experience with Raptor / Rhino lining?
- Thread starter HoseDragger68
- Start date
I had Rhino liner in my YJ. Be careful who you get to do the work. They strip the paint and rough the surface to get the Rhino lining to adhere to the metal. If they do not do an excellent job of cleaning all the metal shaving before they spray there is the potential for the bed rusting out under the Rhino lining. The company that did my YJ did not thoroughly clean the bed before spraying. Over time water rusted out the shaving and extended down below the Rhino lining to the metal bed it was to have protected.
I would go the route of Line X. That is what I had done for my LJ. Twelve years and no problem, well satisfied with the results.
I would go the route of Line X. That is what I had done for my LJ. Twelve years and no problem, well satisfied with the results.
For clarity, that little maypop tire they use to save space in a lot of cars with trunks (and some without) and how far it is from a real tire for highway use is about the same difference between Raptor and Rhino, Line-X and the other 2 part spray on products out there.
If you work really hard and roll or spray on several coats of Raptor, you might get it up to about as thick as a business card. If you work really hard and know how to work the gun, you might be able to get Line-X as thin as a business card but it won't be easy. There is vast difference in material build thickness and the ease to get it there.
OP
my plan was to do both the interior and exterior. Before i got her she was rolled over on the trail so there are a lot of parts that are color matched but not clear coated, Now the replaced parts are starting to peel and rust, primarily the tub and windshield frame.
Really think it through before doing the exterior. This isn't easily reversible
OP
Ill probably just start with the interior for now. I don't plan on ever selling her. This was the last jeep my buddy was working on before he passed away. That's why the work is half done
I "raptor" liner the exterior of mine last fall. The product I used was from custom coat
https://tcpglobal.com/pages/custom-...ObFJQN0vvm9UoQbJqgAddKF8y0wZ6VoBoCFWwQAvD_BwE
If you search for raptor liner on amazon, a lot of the products include the custom coat paint tint. I found online somewhere else that there is no difference between raptor and the custom coat house brand liner. I kind of wish that I would have purchased the raptor adjustable gun. My plan initially was to spray it as smooth as I could possibly get it but many people recommended more texture for durability.
It was a lot of work and I quickly understood why the professionals cost so much. I removed all the fenders, bumpers, rock sliders, doors...
Sanding was surprisingly more difficult than I expected. I don't have all the fancy tools in my garage but it seemed to take a lot longer than I expected.
My plan was to buy tint from an auto paint store but the instructions warn about using fillers. The paint store acted like it would cost a fortune if I just wanted pure tint so I called custom coat up and asked if I could add the tint to an order that I had already bought. Their tint is significantly cheaper if you buy the whole package versus just buying the tint separate.
I would watch a lot of videos to see what was involved and make sure you buy the correct mask when you spray. You don't want to breath that crap into your lungs.
https://tcpglobal.com/pages/custom-...ObFJQN0vvm9UoQbJqgAddKF8y0wZ6VoBoCFWwQAvD_BwE
If you search for raptor liner on amazon, a lot of the products include the custom coat paint tint. I found online somewhere else that there is no difference between raptor and the custom coat house brand liner. I kind of wish that I would have purchased the raptor adjustable gun. My plan initially was to spray it as smooth as I could possibly get it but many people recommended more texture for durability.
It was a lot of work and I quickly understood why the professionals cost so much. I removed all the fenders, bumpers, rock sliders, doors...
Sanding was surprisingly more difficult than I expected. I don't have all the fancy tools in my garage but it seemed to take a lot longer than I expected.
My plan was to buy tint from an auto paint store but the instructions warn about using fillers. The paint store acted like it would cost a fortune if I just wanted pure tint so I called custom coat up and asked if I could add the tint to an order that I had already bought. Their tint is significantly cheaper if you buy the whole package versus just buying the tint separate.
I would watch a lot of videos to see what was involved and make sure you buy the correct mask when you spray. You don't want to breath that crap into your lungs.
OP
I had a pickup truck Rhino lined years back. Great stuff - and VERY thick!
I've heard but haven't verified that modern day Rhino is not the same as it used to be. I had a few truck beds done with it and was always impressed by the non skid aspect of it. Set a box of crap in by the tail gate, get to where you are going and it would still be there. Then I had one done in Line-X. First stop with the box of stuff and it slammed into the bed front. Not quite what I was hoping for. Rhino also used to be sprayed minimum 3/16" thick whereas Line-X shoots for 1/8".
Yea, I hear you. I had very good luck with mine, but I sold that truck back in Y2K, so a lot could have changed since then.
Some good Raptor info in this video...
Looks like they used reducer to thin the Raptor for a smooth coat.
-Mac
Looks like they used reducer to thin the Raptor for a smooth coat.
-Mac
As far as quality product, I can say Inyati is top shelf. Bought my 2005 Duramax new in 05 and had Inyati sprayed in the bed at that time.
The truck doesn't fit in my garage, so it's been outside in the AZ sun its entire life. 18 years later and it's fully intact and bullet proof. I've hauled everything you can imagine in it and it's never peeled, scraped off, thinned or worn through. A little sun faded now, but as strong and effective as ever.
Not sure if you can get the product to do it yourself, but if you're considering having it done, I'd highly recommend checking into their product.
The truck doesn't fit in my garage, so it's been outside in the AZ sun its entire life. 18 years later and it's fully intact and bullet proof. I've hauled everything you can imagine in it and it's never peeled, scraped off, thinned or worn through. A little sun faded now, but as strong and effective as ever.
Not sure if you can get the product to do it yourself, but if you're considering having it done, I'd highly recommend checking into their product.
That is the perfect display of why this is so confusing for folks. It isn't possible to get the stuff to DIY for any of those type coatings. If one will take the time to go down to any Line-X, Rhino, or any of those type places and get them to let you watch them spray a truck bed, the difference becomes immediately obvious.
There are about a bazillion errors in this comparison but it is reasonably accurate enough to start to understand that Raptor etc. type "linings" are little more than a tough thick paint.
Another one, that is again, reasonably accurate showing more of the actual difference. I am of the strongly held opinion that you should not be allowed to call the crap like Raptor a "lining" unless it has at least a 1/16" film thickness that is able to be achieved in no more than a couple of coats. At the best, it is no more than thick paint after 3 coats.
The sad part is the prep for the thick paint is the same for Line-X and Rhino. If you want to save some money and want a far superior coating, work a deal where you do the prep and sanding and then pay them to mask and spray.
I'm tired of looking for one but they need a video that shows how the two part catalyzed polyurea systems work. The two parts mix in the gun and set up in about 5 seconds once it leaves the nozzle. You can actually watch it start to sag when they spray it too heavy on a vertical surface and then freeze in place before it runs. It is also sprayed similar to paint through an airless sprayer in that it is pumped under high pressure and capable of very high volumes of material delivery.
Before anyone thinks I am anti-Raptor type coatings, I am not. I've purchased and used several versions of Herculiner, Durabak, Raptor, and the Custom Coat stuff from TCP Global. Probably 10-15 gallons of the stuff along with the install guns.
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