Does anyone know how to remove these pieces in center console?
- Thread starter isaac2098
- Start date
With a triangle bit. You need to know the size.
LEIZENG 5Pcs Magnetic Triangle Head Screwdriver Bits S2 Steel 1/4 Hex Shank 50mm Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JVRWYY/?tag=wranglerorg-20
or this
Silverhill Tools ABSTR6 6pc Triangle Head Bit Set (Power Bit Style) TA14, TA18, TA20, TA23, TA27, TA30) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FM9D98W/?tag=wranglerorg-20
LEIZENG 5Pcs Magnetic Triangle Head Screwdriver Bits S2 Steel 1/4 Hex Shank 50mm Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JVRWYY/?tag=wranglerorg-20
or this
Silverhill Tools ABSTR6 6pc Triangle Head Bit Set (Power Bit Style) TA14, TA18, TA20, TA23, TA27, TA30) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FM9D98W/?tag=wranglerorg-20
OP
So I tried the triangle bit but it didn’t work and it doesn’t seem like anything is “screwing out”. I saw a post where someone said they drilled them out but I have no clue. Any help before I possibly jack up my center console even more?
Maroonandwhite
Member
I drilled mine out. Just curious what you are attempting. I removed my subwoofer along with that tray with the intention of installing a different storage solution but never got around to it.
OP
I am attempting to install a purchased subwoofer box because mine came with the deep plastic bin instead of the subwoofer option. May I ask how you drilled them out? Just from the top down?
Yes, just drill from the top down with a good 3/16" drill bit. You'll struggle finding the right speed to hit it with that just doesn't start spinning it.
Adding some pressure between the two parts being secured by the screws will help them back out. Mine weren't the triangle screws, but try pushing up on one piece and pulling on the part they are screwed into. I also remember a few screws that had those thin stamped nuts holding them. If you can see underneath and they use those nuts then hold the nut with needle nose pliers when unscrewing.
Maroonandwhite
Member
Sorry for the late response as the other's said, from the top down.
If you happen to salvage the deep bin I may take it off your hands for the right price. Just let me know.
OP
Thanks for the info, I removed it today by drilling using a 3/16” drill bit and they came out quite easily. I have the deep storage bin removed and will just be needing to find the subwoofer box and top smaller storage bin. Just wondering what year TJ you have?
Maroonandwhite
Member
I have a 2004 but unfortunately don't have either of those. I spent the time fitting a kicker subwoofer into the enclosure that ended up dying on me after 3 months. Out of frustration and the need to eliminate anything electrical lower down in the tub (for spraying out) I yanked it out and threw it away. I attempted to modify the shallow tray but ended up screwing it up.....so now I just have a hollow console LOL.
OP
Dang!! It’s taking me so long to find the sub enclosure! The smaller tray is more common but that sub box is like gold. Do you happen to have the stock subwoofer harness that goes under the console, past the shifter, up to the radio?
Maroonandwhite
Member
It's still in there but it' all intertwined with the parking brake wire so I just waterproofed it and left it in. Probably rather not take it out anyways in case I want to tap into those wires at some point. My interests change like the wind. I may be wanting to put a full blown system in it next year haha.
OP
Hey if the price is right I would totally trade you my storage enclosure + cash for that harness haha. I totally understand though. I’ll get back to you though because I want to try to find the subwoofer box before I offload the parts I took out.
Maroonandwhite
Member
Sounds good. Let me know when you find it and I'll look at how difficult it will be to get this one out until then.
If you are going to be adding a new sub amp (which you definitely should) then all there is is 2 wires back to the sub speaker. Use better wire (I think stock is 20 ga.) And get better speaker performance. Not trying to jack up your deal, just offer some info. Or run a self powered sub under drivers seat.
OP
Thanks for the info, I appreciate any I can get because I have no idea about what “ga” stands for or anything sound related. I planned on following the popular guide that was posted on this forum. My plan is to add a kicker subwoofer and kicker amp as well. I don’t have the factory harness though because my Jeep wasn’t equipped with a subwoofer from the factory. How could I connect a kicker subwoofer to my head unit?
It connects with RCA plugs in the back. ga. stands for gauge. What size wire. The bigger the number ie: 20 ga. the smaller the wire. So 14ga. is a bigger wire than 16ga. They are also even numbers. So there is no 15ga. wire. There may be odd numbered wire when you get into battery and welding cable size wire. Follow the info from the sticky and you wont go wrong. I would recommend buying from Crutchfield. They will make sure you get any adapters or other parts you need. And tec support 24/7.
+1 on Crutchfield
If you buy a decent touchscreen head unit, you can really upgrade the functionality of the sound system, and they provide all you need to make the install look factory.
As has been mentioned, you don’t need the factory subwoofer harness to do the aftermarket Kicker amp/sub — in fact it isn’t really the best way to go.
The factory sub amp uses a direct feed from all four factory speakers. Set up this way there is bass coming from all the speakers (if there wasn’t, there wouldn’t be any bass signal for the factory sub amp).
Doing an aftermarket amp/sub lets you use the subwoofer RCA outputs on the head unit. Hooked directly to the sub amp, there is no need to run the eight (8) speaker wires to the sub console.
I hooked my new Pioneer head unit to the factory radio harness (adapter provided by Crutchfield — no cutting required) and directly to the new Kicker sub I mounted under the steering wheel.
Only have two wires going from the dash to the console — the (+) and (-) sub speaker wires from the Kicker amp going to the sub.
The great thing about Crutchfield is that if you buy your gear from them, there is endless chat, email, and telephone support. They can walk you through just about any kind of install.
If you buy a decent touchscreen head unit, you can really upgrade the functionality of the sound system, and they provide all you need to make the install look factory.
As has been mentioned, you don’t need the factory subwoofer harness to do the aftermarket Kicker amp/sub — in fact it isn’t really the best way to go.
The factory sub amp uses a direct feed from all four factory speakers. Set up this way there is bass coming from all the speakers (if there wasn’t, there wouldn’t be any bass signal for the factory sub amp).
Doing an aftermarket amp/sub lets you use the subwoofer RCA outputs on the head unit. Hooked directly to the sub amp, there is no need to run the eight (8) speaker wires to the sub console.
I hooked my new Pioneer head unit to the factory radio harness (adapter provided by Crutchfield — no cutting required) and directly to the new Kicker sub I mounted under the steering wheel.
Only have two wires going from the dash to the console — the (+) and (-) sub speaker wires from the Kicker amp going to the sub.
The great thing about Crutchfield is that if you buy your gear from them, there is endless chat, email, and telephone support. They can walk you through just about any kind of install.