Drop in replacement switch panel for 10-11 switches

toximus

I buy Chinese
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I ran across this today and it looks pretty neat:


s-l1600.webp


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=223041263886
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=223041248721
 
I mean, it looks fairly clean and accommodates lots of switches. Would it work with a manual transmission?
 
Im pretty meticulous, so I couldn't get over the “3D printed” texture that clashes with the OEM dash finish.
Same here. But if you had a weekend to kill, an acetone vapor chamber, and a lot of patience with spraying and sanding heavy fill primer you can make it look just like the stock center section.

I made an entire bumper prototype out of glued up abs prints once. It took over a week of printing, and then two weeks of prep work, but looked like it was made of stamped steel when it was done. Never again though. Way too much work!
 
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Would that be structurally stable? That much negative space seems like it would be either very brittle or bend every time you put some force on a switch.
 
Would that be structurally stable? That much negative space seems like it would be either very brittle or bend every time you put some force on a switch.
Depending on the fill settings for the print and the thickness of the design it can be surprisingly strong.

But looking at the pics online it doesn't look like it was made thick enough. Also, the area around the four mounting holes looks like it will crack as soon as it gets tightened down. Having spent years designing parts similar to this and using multiple $100k 3D printers to prototype on, I would't pay more than $15 for this part knowing how risky it is that it arrives broken.
 
Depending on the fill settings for the print and the thickness of the design it can be surprisingly strong.

But looking at the pics online it doesn't look like it was made thick enough. Also, the area around the four mounting holes looks like it will crack as soon as it gets tightened down. Having spent years designing parts similar to this and using multiple $100k 3D printers to prototype on, I would't pay more than $15 for this part knowing how risky it is that it arrives broken.

Agreed. This should have been milled or molded. Everyone is getting cheap 3D printers now and get tunnel vision. The cheap printers are great for prototyping, terrible for production in many cases.