Eaton E-locker Question

MrTeak

MrTeak

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I had the shop install my Super 35 and Eaton elocker and they left the plug hanging on the axle and I wired up the locker. I looked at a few videos and followed as was said. I went to test the locker as per Eaton manual. I jacked up one tire, activated the switch which lit up and I rotated the tire and it didn’t seem to lock. What are the steps to check if it is working? Do I have to be in 4L? I don’t hear any noise at the locker when it is activated. Should I hear anything? I’m going to make sure that I am getting 12v at the axle plug.
 
You had someone install it, why not let them wire it and then their on the hook to make sure it works properly. How much did you save by doing the wiring and was it worth the savings now! Shouldn’t be too big a deal unless the new locker is binding up. Now your going back in to take a look and void your install warranty? Good luck on resolving this.
 
MrTeak said:
I had the shop install my Super 35 and Eaton elocker and they left the plug hanging on the axle and I wired up the locker. I looked at a few videos and followed as was said. I went to test the locker as per Eaton manual. I jacked up one tire, activated the switch which lit up and I rotated the tire and it didn’t seem to lock. What are the steps to check if it is working? Do I have to be in 4L? I don’t hear any noise at the locker when it is activated. Should I hear anything? I’m going to make sure that I am getting 12v at the axle plug.
Click to expand...

They take a little bit of movement to lock. Get both tires off the ground and spin them. If you can hear it lock, it is barely noticeable. They don't make any noise.
 
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You can also measure ohms across the two pins...you should have resistance...I can try and lookup the values.

But yes...you really have to spin that wheel to get it to lock... really makes you think when you wheel that you want to get that locker on before you get stuck.

-Mac
 
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I agree get both wheels off the ground, I have a elocker in the front and can check it with both wheels off the ground
 
hosejockey61 said:
They take a little bit of movement to lock. Get both tires off the ground and spin them. If you can hear it lock, it is barely noticeable. They don't make any noise.
Click to expand...


This is a cool video that shows this. They don't have major failure rates, but going from forward to reverse while locked they go back and forth and lock like that, exactly as you describe.

If OP pulls the diff, this is a good look of how I believe it should look.
 
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I think I checked mine with both wheels off the ground, in neutral, and I spun the driveshaft by hand until it locked in.

When I did it by spinning one wheel, it seemed to go pretty far and I got concerned, I may not have spun it far enough.
 
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MrTeak said:
Do I have to be in 4L? I don’t hear any noise at the locker when it is activated. Should I hear anything? I’m going to make sure that I am getting 12v at the axle plug.
Click to expand...

Specific to this question, no, with an Eaton E Locker with direct switch like this, you can lock at any point, which is why they have the "safety" type switch I believe.
 
freedom_in_4low said:
I think I checked mine with both wheels off the ground, in neutral, and I spun the driveshaft by hand until it locked in.

When I did it by spinning one wheel, it seemed to go pretty far and I got concerned, I may not have spun it far enough.
Click to expand...

I had the identical experience, spun a wheel considerably farther than I thought it needed to lock, but it didn't. Turning the driveshaft got it locked pretty quick. Turning the tire farther will do it, eventually.

I can't hear mine lock at all, it's silent (to my old ears).

I wouldn't open the diff until you're absolutely sure the wiring is right. You could disconnect the wires at the diff and check the resistance of the diff magnet, mine is about 6 ohms, showing the magnet is connected inside the diff. Then apply 12V & ground directly there from the battery. If that doesn't lock it, something is wrong in the diff.
 
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OldBuzzard said:
I had the identical experience, spun a wheel considerably farther than I thought it needed to lock, but it didn't. Turning the driveshaft got it locked pretty quick. Turning the tire farther will do it, eventually.

I can't hear mine lock at all, it's silent (to my old ears).

I wouldn't open the diff until you're absolutely sure the wiring is right. You could disconnect the wires at the diff and check the resistance of the diff magnet, mine is about 6 ohms, showing the magnet is connected inside the diff. Then apply 12V & ground directly there from the battery. If that doesn't lock it, something is wrong in the diff.
Click to expand...

It makes sense if you think about it and watch that video. If the carrier needs to rotate relative to the housing then you need to turn the pinion, and that's only gonna happen if you turn it yourself, or both wheels are rolling in the same direction. If you have one wheel on the ground and turn the other you'll get there but it'll take twice as far, and if both wheels are in the air as mine were, you may never get there unless there's just enough friction in the opposite wherl to turn the carrier.
 
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OldBuzzard said:
I had the identical experience, spun a wheel considerably farther than I thought it needed to lock, but it didn't. Turning the driveshaft got it locked pretty quick. Turning the tire farther will do it, eventually.

I can't hear mine lock at all, it's silent (to my old ears).

I wouldn't open the diff until you're absolutely sure the wiring is right. You could disconnect the wires at the diff and check the resistance of the diff magnet, mine is about 6 ohms, showing the magnet is connected inside the diff. Then apply 12V & ground directly there from the battery. If that doesn't lock it, something is wrong in the diff.
Click to expand...

You're seeing 6 ohms?

I have two Eaton E Lockers here in a box (used) and I see 3.8 ohms on both. Now I'm wondering if they may need a new magnet before I put one in my son's JK.
 
cpwolf said:
You're seeing 6 ohms?

I have two Eaton E Lockers here in a box (used) and I see 3.8 ohms on both. Now I'm wondering if they may need a new magnet before I put one in my son's JK.
Click to expand...

Check that, saw on another thread and forum, someone talked to Eaton. I'll take their word, and they said between 3.5 and 6.2 ohms is in spec.

Also, they pointed out that Eaton themselves stated the ramp style locker is difficult to sometimes impossible to get to engage on jack stands, I'm assuming by turning the tire. The anecdotal "turn the pinion/DS" matches what they quoted Eaton on, so that seems to track. Test by turning the DS / Pinion.
 
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cpwolf said:
You're seeing 6 ohms?

I have two Eaton E Lockers here in a box (used) and I see 3.8 ohms on both. Now I'm wondering if they may need a new magnet before I put one in my son's JK.
Click to expand...

I can't find any specs on those coils, and few hints. The electrical diagram says 8 amps max, which would be 1.5 ohms at 12 volts. I would guess that anything between 1.5 and 6 ohms is probably good.

Edit: And then I saw the @cpwolf post. Good info.
 
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So I tried jacking up the rear wheels and try to engage it by turning the driveshaft by hand and no luck, so I started to chase the wire and upon slightly tugging on it the plug came undone exposing the pins so my problem looks like it is not making a good connection at the plug. I tried to push the pins in and they are a pain to properly seat. Is there an easy way for seating them?
 
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