Engine cut out on incline

L

Liam_H

New Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Messages
17
Location
UK
I was wondering if any of you guys could help me solve this, ill tell you what happened.
I just purchased a 2004 Jeep TJ 4.0 Auto a few days ago, which hadnt been driven for a few weeks so to a while to start up on collection.
It came with 1 stock key and 2 aftermarket keys. Everything seems to run fine but once or twice didn't start up on the first try.
However today started up fine, then as I got to the top of my driveway which is at an incline, I applied the brake and checked the road was clear then went to set off and the engine cut out.
Then I went to start up again and the dash came on but wouldn't turn over or make a noise when turning the key. Took the key in and out a few times then after the 3rd time it started up again. Also when the engine went off, when putting it back into park the transmission was stiff and judered. Also the key symbol on the dash lit up everytime I start it.
So what do you think is wrong?
Bad battery, fuel pump, starter motor?
It drives fine since, but why would an automatic cut out like that?
Id appreciate any help, thank you!
 
I've got two aftermarket keys that came with my jeep. I can start it with those keys and it runs but as soon as I try to take off it dies also my key light comes on. Runs fine with one key. It may be an issue with your key or ignition.
 
The key symbol lights up as part of the normal security key check, it's reading the chip inside the key to make sure it's the valid security key. It's hard to say from the symptoms part of the problem might be one of the three keys you have might be bad. Are all gray indicating they are a security-enabled key? Black keys have no security chip in them, they're only suitable for opening the doors and rear gate.

A slow start, meaning the engine cranks for an extra long length of time before it starts, can mean a bad check valve inside the fuel pump which lets the fuel drain down out of the engine and back to the gas tank, instead of remaining in the engine so the engine can start quickly. Cycling the ignition switch 3-5 times on-off-on (not to Start) and pausing in the On position 2 seconds each time can give the fuel pump extra run time so it can get fuel back up to the engine will make it start faster if the check valve is leaking.

Not sure why your engine is dying yet, does it die while driving during the day or is this just a problem right after starting it in the morning?
 
Brilliant thank you for the replies.
It doesn't actually take a long time to start, id say 2 turnovers then it starts so thats normal, but it just sometimes doesnt start like a weak turn over when its the first start of the day. Which is why I thought it to be the battery, but possibly thought the stock key I was using was bad and maybe read it as bad for a second thats why it shut off. Was just strange that it cut out and then wouldn't start up again for a few tries. I thought something terrible had happened so I was relieved when it started back up!
 
When exactly does the indicator (key inside the circle) illuminate on the instrument cluster ?
Does it happen before or after the engine shuts off ?
Shutting off before means there is a problem with the SKIM system key; IF its after the engine shuts off... that would be normal.
As for the engine not cranking over when you turn the ignition key; that could be the ignition switch or the harness that attaches.
Suggest you look at the wiring harness going to the ignition switch; see if there are signs of over heating or possibly the contacts inside the ignition switch are going bad.
Are there other signs of electrical problems such as different electrical components shutting off while the Jeep is running ?
 
You MIGHT have a skim/key issue...

SOUNDS like you've got a battery issue.
I quote..
"but it just sometimes doesnt start like a weak turn over when its the first start of the day."
Obviously it's hard to diagnose shit over the inTRAnet but you do have a small draw on the battery when it's off. If your battery is marginal at best even that slight voltage draw can hurt.
The other thing is the battery could be weak and your first start of the day is turning slowly from the oil being thicker (cold and sitting overnight).
Once started your alternator charges the battery so to speak...the oil has now got warmed up...etc.

You might have something else entirely.

Let's check your battery first...
What is the date of mfg?
(This very important today especially if its a lower grade battery)
Next thing is you really need to check the condition of said battery with a real battery tester.
Lastly...you need to check your connections...everywhere. Start at the battery onward.

We see behavior like this a lot. Especially once the weather starts to warm up. (Heat will kill a battery long before cold will)

We get no starts, sometimes starts in and it could very well be the battery. Half the time is a poor connection the owner swears its good and tight yet I can twist it right off without touching the bolt.
The other half is battery issues. They might say "I just replaced this battery " it can't be bad...upon further review it was made 4 years ago as example.

At this point I think you need to check your...
Battery...
Connections..battery related
And while at it check your alternator.

Battery...you need a real battery tester. It doesn't take much to have 12 volts in a battery. You need to see the actual cold cranking amps of said battery.

Don't run the Jeep then immediately test the battery. You'll have a spike in the electrons and give you a false reading. (It will read high falsely)

If you can, right before you would start it in the morning
(if you don't have the equipment)
Take it out and somewhere that tests them.

Good luck
 
Rubicon88 said:
You MIGHT have a skim/key issue...

SOUNDS like you've got a battery issue.
I quote..
"but it just sometimes doesnt start like a weak turn over when its the first start of the day."
Obviously it's hard to diagnose shit over the inTRAnet but you do have a small draw on the battery when it's off. If your battery is marginal at best even that slight voltage draw can hurt.
The other thing is the battery could be weak and your first start of the day is turning slowly from the oil being thicker (cold and sitting overnight).
Once started your alternator charges the battery so to speak...the oil has now got warmed up...etc.

You might have something else entirely.

Let's check your battery first...
What is the date of mfg?
(This very important today especially if its a lower grade battery)
Next thing is you really need to check the condition of said battery with a real battery tester.
Lastly...you need to check your connections...everywhere. Start at the battery onward.

We see behavior like this a lot. Especially once the weather starts to warm up. (Heat will kill a battery long before cold will)

We get no starts, sometimes starts in and it could very well be the battery. Half the time is a poor connection the owner swears its good and tight yet I can twist it right off without touching the bolt.
The other half is battery issues. They might say "I just replaced this battery " it can't be bad...upon further review it was made 4 years ago as example.

At this point I think you need to check your...
Battery...
Connections..battery related
And while at it check your alternator.

Battery...you need a real battery tester. It doesn't take much to have 12 volts in a battery. You need to see the actual cold cranking amps of said battery.

Don't run the Jeep then immediately test the battery. You'll have a spike in the electrons and give you a false reading. (It will read high falsely)

If you can, right before you would start it in the morning
(if you don't have the equipment)
Take it out and somewhere that tests them.

Good luc
Click to expand...
Thank you very much for the help!
Do you possibly know why it cut out and stalled right before I took off on an incline? I just didnt think automatics could stall, but I was thinking it idles below 1000, and maybe me rolling back slightly as I came off the brake to press the accelerator the idle dropped so low that it cut out, or am I talking rubbish?
Thats what scared me the most, because it wouldn't even crank for a minute after it stalled, then suddenly came back to life and started again.
Thank you buddy.
 
Liam_H said:
Thank you very much for the help!
Do you possibly know why it cut out and stalled right before I took off on an incline? I just didnt think automatics could stall, but I was thinking it idles below 1000, and maybe me rolling back slightly as I came off the brake to press the accelerator the idle dropped so low that it cut out, or am I talking rubbish?
Thats what scared me the most, because it wouldn't even crank for a minute after it stalled, then suddenly came back to life and started again.
Thank you buddy.
Click to expand...
You could have a couple issues going on. Don't lose sight of that.

Might you have had your defrost on traversing the hill?
Which means your A/C was on.
That means extra load on the engine.
Two things there..if you've a suspect electrical situation (sure seems like you do) the extra load won't help whatsoever.

The other thing is your throttle body could be filthy and needs cleaning. If they're really dirty it can stall with the extra load on the engine from the A/C compressor. I don't mean a marginal or bad AC compressor...a fine A/C compressor can provide enough of a load on the engine stalling can happen.

I'd get all your electrical checked out.
Battery...
age, condition, connections

Connections onward from the battery. Ground wire(s) hot starter wire

Get the alternator checked too.

Do you know the previous owner? I'd call and ask.

The more you can learn of these symptoms the better off you'll be and the more the forum can help you.
 
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