Going back to making the 4.0 work...
1.) make it shudder then lightly ride the brake at the same time. The EMCC is supposed to disengage when the brake is applied. If the vibration/shuddering stops when the brake is applied, its the converter clutch.
I was trying this last night. I don't have any big hills close enough make it shudder but I did try braking while it was chirping. I found that either of these 3 things would happen:
1) The transmission would get out of OD, the engine would rev gently, and the chirp would stop. Or
2) The transmission would get out of OD, the engine would rev hard, and the chirp would continue. Or
3) The transmission would stay in OD, the engine would raise RPMs gently to compensate for the load and the chirps would continue.
I also found that the chirp (not a squeal) will happen under initial application of hard acceleration (normally 2-4 chirps can be heard before they'd stop) whether putting my foot down at 15mph, 45mph, or 60mph the chirps happen at high RPMs as the Jeep accelerates. and it doesn't change tone or frequency based on RPM. Meaning it sounds the same if it's chirping at 2k rpm at 50mph (like in the video I posted in the first post) or if I'm putting my foot down at 60mph and turning the engine at 4k rpm. While playing around doing this is when the belt shredded — not on a hill, just flat road at around 55mph.
I untangled the belt bits and shook all of the pulleys while the belt was off. Everything is solid including the SC bracket doesn't wiggle. The one composite pulley does have the slightest movement, I have a replacement on the way, but I'm starting to think that it's within a normal tolerance.
I counted the ribs of each pulley and they each have 6 (as they should).
Doing the some testing in the driveway, with the brake held and trans in drive and revving the engine the belt gives more slack than the auto tensioner can take up. All of the high load accessories such as power steering and SC are on one side of the crank and the other side only has the alternator and the belt slack all gets thrown to that one side. The belt flops around to the point of hitting the water pump and crashing into itself where the belt double backs. This seems to happen more when blipping the throttle. It would seem that it'd be easy for the belt to jump off a few ribs which is probably why it happened when I was doing those hard accelerations.
I understand that under normal driving conditions that I won't be slamming on the gas and doing stupid stuff, but whatever the chirping, vibing, popping things is
does happen during normal driving conditions. So I don't think I'm too far off base recreating it by using these methods.