Engine takes a while to start when cold starting

tjreed141

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Utah
On my 2000 Jeep TJ Sahara edition the engine takes a while to start when I'm cold starting it. It hasn't straight up refused to start "yet", but I'm sure that will happen soon. Anyone have any ideas on what this could be, and the steps I should take to diagnose and repair?
Link to Google drive video of me starting it. I couldn't directly attach the video to this thread because the file was too large.

Edit: I should also add that once it has started the first time and everything is warmed up it doesn't happen again until it gets cold.
 
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try cycling your key to the on position 4 or 5 times waiting 5 seconds before switching it off and doing it again, don't try to start it just go to on position to run the fuel pump and pressurize the system. the fuel pump only runs about 3 seconds when the key is switched to the on position then cuts off doing it 4 or 5 times will ensure the system is pressurized . if it starts better after doing that you will know it's either the fuel pump check valve or a leaking injector.
 
On my 2000 Jeep TJ Sahara edition the engine takes a while to start when I'm cold starting it. It hasn't straight up refused to start "yet", but I'm sure that will happen soon. Anyone have any ideas on what this could be, and the steps I should take to diagnose and repair?
Link to Google drive video of me starting it. I couldn't directly attach the video to this thread because the file was too large.

Edit: I should also add that once it has started the first time and everything is warmed up it doesn't happen again until it gets cold.

Piggybacking on tr21triton, if you narrow it down to the fuel pump check valve, drop the tank and do it. I ignored mine for 6 months and ended up being on the side of the road a few weeks ago after the lift pump itself finally gave out.

Out in Utah this may be less applicable than salty shitbox land here in Ohio, but my advice is this (cart before the horse, I know, but I wish I knew a lot of things before I started most of my projects): before you start, get all 7 carriage bolts and retainers. The retainers on the carriage bolts that hold them in place like to rust and flake off, allowing the carriage bolt to jump up and spin. If the bolt spins, don't just hammer it with an impact. My PO welded carriage bolts to the frame when the shock bolts snapped and they got access by dropping the tank, so I was lucky. Once the tank is out it's pretty standard. Before you put it back in, be generous with the anti-seize. In the rust belt, with luckily no carriage bolts spinning out and completely cleaning out the tank, it took me about 3-4 hours with dear old dad.

Your pump is likely original, and the youngest TJ/LJ is 18 years old. The check valve won't cause a fuel pump failure, but a 20 year old pump will. Crazy to think about. I remember these things new when I was in Kindergarten.
 
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try cycling your key to the on position 4 or 5 times waiting 5 seconds before switching it off and doing it again, don't try to start it just go to on position to run the fuel pump and pressurize the system. the fuel pump only runs about 3 seconds when the key is switched to the on position then cuts off doing it 4 or 5 times will ensure the system is pressurized . if it starts better after doing that you will know it's either the fuel pump check valve or a leaking injector.

I did exactly what you said, and it did start better! is there any effective way i can tell which of the issues you pointed out is the cause? Do I just have to take it to a mechanic to find that out?
 
I did exactly what you said, and it did start better! is there any effective way i can tell which of the issues you pointed out is the cause? Do I just have to take it to a mechanic to find that out?

keep driving. every time before you start, cycle the key. 2 seconds off, then on. 3 times. If the issue goes away completely, almost guaranteed you need a fuel pump. Do it anyways, since it is likely the original pump.
 
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