Exhaust manifold to downpipe bolts
- Thread starter derekmac
- Start date
Reviving this old thread to add info, since I search didn't bring anything up for me. The OEM exhaust manifold to pre-cat flange bolts on my 2005 are M10-1.5x45. 15mm socket.
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I'll revive this old thread again, again, as I'm dropping my exhaust to do the rear main seal for a third time.
I've tried multiple different types/styles of swivels and These Sunex swivel sockets make getting to those bolts a much easier task. Even allow enough movement for me to get a Milwaukee impact up in there. They swivel very close to the head of the bolt. Pretty handy other places too.
I've tried multiple different types/styles of swivels and These Sunex swivel sockets make getting to those bolts a much easier task. Even allow enough movement for me to get a Milwaukee impact up in there. They swivel very close to the head of the bolt. Pretty handy other places too.
I've had to tighten mine up every 10-20k miles without a doubt.
This last time I used new OEM hardware that I had on-hand (stupid expensive to find now...) with a torque wrench to spec, rather than just driving them in using the impact... I'll see if it holds any better or any longer...
I've double nutted hardware store hardware, and they still need to get tightened again... (maybe that's from the impact stretching the bolt... I just wanted the damn thing sealed...)
To get a good hold on the bolt, swivel socket is mandatory along with 18-24" extensions. Swivel extensions also help. I found using 3/8" swivel socket (or low profile socket and 6" swivel extension) at the bolts then adapted up to 1/2" x 24" extension.
This last time I used new OEM hardware that I had on-hand (stupid expensive to find now...) with a torque wrench to spec, rather than just driving them in using the impact... I'll see if it holds any better or any longer...
I've double nutted hardware store hardware, and they still need to get tightened again... (maybe that's from the impact stretching the bolt... I just wanted the damn thing sealed...)
To get a good hold on the bolt, swivel socket is mandatory along with 18-24" extensions. Swivel extensions also help. I found using 3/8" swivel socket (or low profile socket and 6" swivel extension) at the bolts then adapted up to 1/2" x 24" extension.
LONGJP2
TJ Expert
I used to do the extension thing, now I just reach in from the side with a ratcheting wrench.
Although, probably not torqued.
I've done both methods. I think after 140K I need new hardware. I get the P0298 code every 2-3mo after a longish drive. Lying on your back with wobble extensions and u joints? Or 2 clicks on the ratchet wrench while standing up getting your arm scratched up 100 clicks later. I doubt either way offers an accurate torque measurement. I snug it as tight as I can with a 3/8 ratchet and all the extension slop. Same for the flex head gear wrench.
Latest time, I did it while replacing the fender so it was so much easier to see what was going on.
I think the spec is something low like 35 ft/lbs so you could hit it with a wrench in your hand. I just can't imagine getting in there with a wrench and having any room to move it, good on you!
SouthernTJ2000
TJ Enthusiast
Since this has been revived, I'll chime in as I just did this about 3 weeks ago. I had to end up cutting my bolts off, '00 4.0. There was a gap between the pipe flange and the manifold that allowed me to get a Dremel in there, took about 3 cutting wheels to do all four bolts. I'd cut, twist, cut, twist, rinse and repeat until the bolt basically snapped in half. I then went to Ace and bought replacement hardware that would make install/removal "easier." I just did the ole extensions on the back trick with a box end on the nut, worked great with the new hardware. I'll probably back them off then tighten them back up every other oil change or so, just to keep them "fresh."