I've been reading this forum since mid-December and finally joined last week.
I bought a 2003 TJ about 3 weeks ago, I watched it online at the dealer through two price reductions over 6 weeks. I reviewed the CarFax before looking at the unit. No visible rust except on the top of the driver fender, about 2 inches round, with no apparent cause.
The tailgate hinge has some paint missing, it seems to be aluminum.
SE stock steel wheels, tires are Cooper Discoverer H/T P215/75R15 in good shape (sad, I was hoping for an excuse to change them right away).
Before purchase I checked the frame underneath and focused on the key spots (where drainage is poor - learned from BleepinJeep on YouTube).
I also checked for dry rust dust and wet drips. Everything looked like old leaks, the usual stains.
When I brought it home I parked it where the pavement was dry, two days later, no drips
I've done every rebuild and/or repair on trucks and cars and other machines since I was 12 out of necessity, not so much the last 20 years.
The last year has been recovery from hip replacements, so crawling underneath is a trial.
Getting in and out of the Jeep is an adventure, but it'll get better as I regain my strength.
Things I fixed once it was home;
The headlights were mismatched and one had a broken shield inside the sealed beam (never saw that loose before).
The other was not seated correctly (rotated wrong) with a tab broken on the retainer ring - two new bulbs and a replacement ring later - all is well.
High Stop bulb burned out, fresh 921 fixed it.
Moisture in right tail light - no reason for leak found during close inspection inside, I suspect an energetic power wash before dealer pictures taken, water came in the drain notch in the lense at the bottom.
The parking brake was inoperative, my usual tire place adjusted the cables and checked all the brakes and balanced the wheels/tires.
The tachometer needle was below the pin. (dealer pictures showed it working in October).
Slow crank when starting (40 degrees out, winter here).
Replaced main battery, this fixed/reset the tach and corrected the slow start issue.
Starts every time now. Seems reliable, fires right away, no long cranking like an older car.
It sat for two days outside (intentionally when 4 degrees outside) - Started right up the same cold temperature, so I think it's good.
Enough history, on with the plans;
Short term, It's really squirrelly over 50, especially on right turns. I am taking it to a local 4x4 shop in town this week to see if they can inspect the suspension. The vehicle has what looks like a 2 inch lift. There are orange pucks on top of the springs with Skyjacker shocks, and there is a quick release sway bar disconnect.
An intensive review of all the aricles and pictures on this forum leads me to believe that a trackbar end has an issue.
Long term, I don't plan on climbing walls nor racing with it.
I'd like to do some trails. Although big rock crawling looks fun, it also seems somewhat expensive with sudden expensive failures.
It's a 4 cylinder with 5 speed, according to my build sheet it's a Dana 30 and 35, a 231 and a 1550 with 4.11 gears. Once I can get under it this week I'll check the tags to know for sure.
I'd like to fill out the wheel wells, perhaps with 31's - if the driveline can handle it. 35's may be too big.
>> Join this forum. And read for a month before buying anything
I've already followed this advice... the information you all have collected here has been priceless.
I bought a 2003 TJ about 3 weeks ago, I watched it online at the dealer through two price reductions over 6 weeks. I reviewed the CarFax before looking at the unit. No visible rust except on the top of the driver fender, about 2 inches round, with no apparent cause.
The tailgate hinge has some paint missing, it seems to be aluminum.
SE stock steel wheels, tires are Cooper Discoverer H/T P215/75R15 in good shape (sad, I was hoping for an excuse to change them right away).
Before purchase I checked the frame underneath and focused on the key spots (where drainage is poor - learned from BleepinJeep on YouTube).
I also checked for dry rust dust and wet drips. Everything looked like old leaks, the usual stains.
When I brought it home I parked it where the pavement was dry, two days later, no drips
I've done every rebuild and/or repair on trucks and cars and other machines since I was 12 out of necessity, not so much the last 20 years.
The last year has been recovery from hip replacements, so crawling underneath is a trial.
Getting in and out of the Jeep is an adventure, but it'll get better as I regain my strength.
Things I fixed once it was home;
The headlights were mismatched and one had a broken shield inside the sealed beam (never saw that loose before).
The other was not seated correctly (rotated wrong) with a tab broken on the retainer ring - two new bulbs and a replacement ring later - all is well.
High Stop bulb burned out, fresh 921 fixed it.
Moisture in right tail light - no reason for leak found during close inspection inside, I suspect an energetic power wash before dealer pictures taken, water came in the drain notch in the lense at the bottom.
The parking brake was inoperative, my usual tire place adjusted the cables and checked all the brakes and balanced the wheels/tires.
The tachometer needle was below the pin. (dealer pictures showed it working in October).
Slow crank when starting (40 degrees out, winter here).
Replaced main battery, this fixed/reset the tach and corrected the slow start issue.
Starts every time now. Seems reliable, fires right away, no long cranking like an older car.
It sat for two days outside (intentionally when 4 degrees outside) - Started right up the same cold temperature, so I think it's good.
Enough history, on with the plans;
Short term, It's really squirrelly over 50, especially on right turns. I am taking it to a local 4x4 shop in town this week to see if they can inspect the suspension. The vehicle has what looks like a 2 inch lift. There are orange pucks on top of the springs with Skyjacker shocks, and there is a quick release sway bar disconnect.
An intensive review of all the aricles and pictures on this forum leads me to believe that a trackbar end has an issue.
Long term, I don't plan on climbing walls nor racing with it.
I'd like to do some trails. Although big rock crawling looks fun, it also seems somewhat expensive with sudden expensive failures.
It's a 4 cylinder with 5 speed, according to my build sheet it's a Dana 30 and 35, a 231 and a 1550 with 4.11 gears. Once I can get under it this week I'll check the tags to know for sure.
I'd like to fill out the wheel wells, perhaps with 31's - if the driveline can handle it. 35's may be too big.
>> Join this forum. And read for a month before buying anything
I've already followed this advice... the information you all have collected here has been priceless.
but it's doable
