Front slip yoke on 97 TJ

[EastTxMedic]

Alrighty folks. I’ve been chasing down a high frequency vibration that shows up about 65, gets worse from there. Doesn’t happen in 4HI. But that’s another day....

I was replacing the front ujoint and my ujoint press got away from me and I cracked the yoke. See pic.

first question is: I’m assuming these things in it are to balance it out, so if I order a new yoke I’ll need to take it to a shop to be balanced?

Secondly, this is a 1997 TJ that left the factory with a 4cyl. Now it has a 6cyl that I believe came out of a Cherokee, unknown year. Since that would have changed the distance from the front axle to the transfer case, I am thinking this front shaft has been “modified” based on what I consider sloppy welding. Does it look like something a shop could make good, or am I wasting my time and need to order a custom shaft? This is just a run around, no heavy off road or anything. Also the $$ for a custom really isn’t there right now. Opinions? Thanks in advance.

 

[CharlesHS]

The yoke on the driveshaft can be replaced by a driveshaft shop.
I would ask around to see if the Jeep owners in your area can recommend a shop.
Probably should have a full rebuild of the driveshaft while doing the original repair.
Whether the shaft is rebuilt or repaired; the shaft will require balancing
Not sure what prices are like in Texas, but the price should be around $300 unless you know someone at the shop.

 

[J R]

If it was me I would just get a new driveline from Tom Woods or Adams. I use Adams but there has more to do with they are in my area.

If you are questioning anything about that one start over and know what you have.

Also I would be curious on what the cost to fix that one would be. I would bet a new one would not be much more.

 

[03sahara]

I would say it’s a factory shaft they have a slip joint from the factory. Can you find a good used shaft might be cheaper.

 

[CharlesHS]

Tom Woods has some good prices for new driveshafts.
Probably cheaper than having a repair, rebuild and balance.

Tom Woods

 

[EastTxMedic]

OK thanks for the feedback. Here's an update.

I took it to WC Supply, a local respected driveline shop. The shaft had a couple issues. First of all, yes, it had been cut and re-welded, and it was 1/2 tooth "out of time". Secondly, the slip yoke was not the correct one. It matched something out of a 1/2 ton LWB chevy truck (it had a "blind" in it and the tooth gaps were off, it had to be beaten off with a hammer). So they were going to straighten it up and re-weld it, then balance it with the correct yoke.

They called today and said the splines were bent. Possibly because the yoke had not been able to slip. Also this is probably what had contributed to my front pinion bearings going out, the shaft was not slipping when the suspension flexed.

By the time they sold me the yoke, re-welded it, added the new spline, it was going to be in the neighborhood of $250-275. I told them to WHOAH, since that wasn't even taking into account the old double joint at the other end. I'm going to have to pay for what they did (the reweld), and go pick it up because I had brand new sealed Spicer u-joints in there that I want back. I'll just get a new shaft.

I measured from the face of my yoke on the tcase to the face of the yoke on the front diff and got 41 7/8". All the factory OEM shafts I see say they are 39", but that apears to be fully compressed. It doesn't feel like only 1 7/8" of play would be enough. I have a 4" lift, don't do any extreme of road just ride around the lease. EDIT: I found one on ROck Auto that lists as OEM with a length of 40.875".

Since my jeep has had a motor swap, I'm not sure if this is factory distance. Can anyone tell me what the factory yoke-to-yoke distance is supposed to be? TY

 

[EastTxMedic]

If it was me I would just get a new driveline from Tom Woods or Adams. I use Adams but there has more to do with they are in my area.

If you are questioning anything about that one start over and know what you have.

Also I would be curious on what the cost to fix that one would be. I would bet a new one would not be much more.

I have an Adams DC shaft and SYE kit on the rear, it seems well made. Kind of sloppy on th balancing, it has what seems like a LOT of washers welded to it to balance it out, but overall heavy duty. And no vibrations from the back.