Front track bar bracket holes

[rockbottom]

4” zone lift from PO.
Still has OEM control arm and pitman

Which hole is the OEM hole?
If i go down to 2” or 2 1/2” springs should i leave this as is or move to the now unused bolt hole location

I have fox shocks that Zone says are the part number for 3” or 4” lift
Will they work with the 2” or 2 1/2” springs?

Mostly not offroad driving or dirt road
No rock crawling

 

[hosejockey61]

4” zone lift from PO.
Still has OEM control arm and pitman

Which hole is the OEM hole?
If i go down to 2” or 2 1/2” springs should i leave this as is or move to the now unused bolt hole location

I have fox shocks that Zone says are the part number for 3” or 4” lift
Will they work with the 2” or 2 1/2” springs?

Mostly not offroad driving or dirt road
No rock crawling

View attachment 450571

The hole that it is in is the OEM hole.

 

[AndyG]

The hole that it is in is the OEM hole.

Ding Ding Ding- we have a winner Chris. Please send one Jerry Bransford Pictorial Calendar, the second printing without the nudes everyone got upset about.

 

[rockbottom]

The hole that it is in is the OEM hole.

So having the OEM non adjustable track arm with the 4” lift should i move the track arm to the other hole?

I keep reading that if you dont have a adjustsble control arm then the bracket needs the additional hole to be drilled

The jeep seems to steer different than I would think a OEM setup would drive

I wonder if the PO put the control arm in the wrong hole when he installed the lift?

Thoughts?

 

[AndyG]

So having the OEM non adjustable track arm with the 4” lift should i move the track arm to the other hole?

I keep reading that if you dont have a adjustsble control arm then the bracket needs the additional hole to be drilled

The jeep seems to steer different than I would think a OEM setup would drive

I wonder if the PO put the control arm in the wrong hole when he installed the lift?

Thoughts?

Most likely you need to but it doesn’t guarantee that you’re going to get the axle perfectly centered- But most likely it will be closer than it is.

If you just did the lift you likely need more caster- This means the front axle needs to roll backward-

Toe and caster need checked after all lifts, along with axle centers and the 4 wheel drive linkage -

 

[rockbottom]

This lift was done before i purchased the TJ

Im just not happy with the drive characteristics

trying to decide to take the zone 4” off and got to 2” JKS or OME and smaller tires when i noticed this second hole in the bracket

 

[AndyG]

This lift was done before i purchased the TJ

Im just not happy with the drive characteristics

trying to decide to take the zone 4” off and got to 2” JKS or OME and smaller tires when i noticed this second hole in the bracket

Centering the axle might be a little beneficial- But it doesn’t matter what you do you’re going to have to end up with good connections and proper geometry-

As a general rule less lift means less challenges- But there is no bolt on solution that solves everything and you have to look at the vehicle as a total system-

The condition of the sway bar links and bushings

The condition of the tires

The condition of the unit bearings

The condition of the sway bar connections

The shocks

What I’m trying to encourage you to do is understand how everything works and you’ll make a better decision and be able to deal with the consequences of the decision-

It is possible for these to be lifted and drive great

I have one that is lifted 2 inches and one that is lifted 4 inches plus a body left and they are both fantastic- But it took some doing

 

[rockbottom]

the Tj only has 52 k miles and the lift kit is very new so from my inspection everything looks in good shape

I do understand the complexity of the geometry with the lift choice and that it increase the challenge with increase in lift inches

I dont understand how it all works together and or what adjustments might be needed

As said i didnt install the lift so question the precision of the installer

With that said, i have read many threads that comment on the modification , hole, to the OEM bracket

This is why i questioned the current position with the OEM track bar

I guess its worth relocating it and seeing if it makes and noticeable difference
In the driving characteristics

In not against getting complete new JKS or OME 2” system

Just trying to see what my options are

Appreciate your thoughts

 

[AndyG]

the Tj only has 52 k miles and the lift kit is very new so from my inspection everything looks in good shape

I do understand the complexity of the geometry with the lift choice and that it increase the challenge with increase in lift inches

I dont understand how it all works together and or what adjustments might be needed

As said i didnt install the lift so question the precision of the installer

With that said, i have read many threads that comment on the modification , hole, to the OEM bracket

This is why i questioned the current position with the OEM track bar

I guess its worth relocating it and seeing if it makes and noticeable difference
In the driving characteristics

In not against getting complete new JKS or OME 2” system

Just trying to see what my options are

Appreciate your thoughts

You’re thinking right and sounds like you’ve got a really good platform to work with-
If you’re staying here through the process we can help you work through everything and you’ll be happy when it’s all done ....Just be patient and persistent.

The name of the game really is you can’t have to help yourself because you can’t depend on most in the shop to completely grasp everything like they should-


I hate that it’s that way but even when I have work done at the shop sometimes I have to go back and tweak it.

The only reason I know a little bit is because I felt forced into doing my own work on mine.

This forum literally made all the difference.

 

[rockbottom]

Just finished measurement's
Back axle centered almost perfect

Front axle a different story
Axle is 5/8” off center to the passenger side
I removed the control arm bolt, drove back and forth etc and the axle centered by about 1/4” to driver side

Concluded if I move to the right hole, as in the photo the axle will be offset more to the passenger side by the distance, (center to center of the two holes) since the control bat is welded on the driver side

Put it back in the same hole as the photo
And its back to 5/8” offset to the passenger side

Conclusion: i need a adjustable track arm and use the same hole and pull the axle to the driver side half the offset (5/16”)

Thoughts?

 

[macleanflood]

Agreed.

 

[rockbottom]

I purchased the RC adjustable bracket
Did not have to drill frame side bracket
Took some doing but after second adjustment i have the axle within 1/8 “
of dead center
I used the top of the spring seat to the edge of the tire tread for my measurements
Worked for me