Fuel issue

Glen Hyser

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Original poster
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Sep 7, 2019
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9
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New Smyrna Beach Florida
I have a 1997 Jeep TJ been getting hard to start . I have to turn key on and off ten times obviously the fuel is not staying primed up. pump only stays on for a second when you turn key switch on. Runs fine after it’s running . I installed a new fuel pump and hose from tank to main line.
It’s doing the same thing! Has anyone got any suggestions?
 
Sounds like the drain back valve.

Did you replace the entire fuel pump assembly, or just the fuel pump itself?
 
I have the same problem, I have an injector problem literally yesterday check my injectors and cyl 6 injector was clogged I cleaned it out for the meantime and swapped it with cyl 5 when I went to start it up it took one try not 2 times. I would just take a look at your injectors it doesn’t hurt.
 
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The complete assembly advance auto brand $200.00
Store brands from there, Autozone, etc. are not good choices for such a critical part.

Glen, the fuel pump only stays on 1.8 seconds if the engine doesn't start or you don't try to start it. Once the engine starts the fuel pump then stays on.

Loss of fuel in the lines from a bad check valve is the cause for long start cycles where you need to prime the fuel line by repeatedly turning the ignition switch on-off-on. There are two check valves. The first is inside the fuel pressure regulator that sits on top of the gas tank. If that check valve goes bad it usually means the engine won't start quickly even seconds or minutes after shutting it off. If the check valve inside the fuel pump goes bad, that normally means the engine will start quickly if it hasn't be standing for a longer period of like overnight. When it takes hours for it to stop starting quickly, that's normally a sign of the fuel pump (which has the check valve inside) needs to be replaced.
 
So
Store brands from there, Autozone, etc. are not good choices for such a critical part.

Glen, the fuel pump only stays on 1.8 seconds if the engine doesn't start or you don't try to start it. Once the engine starts the fuel pump then stays on.

Loss of fuel in the lines from a bad check valve is the cause for long start cycles where you need to prime the fuel line by repeatedly turning the ignition switch on-off-on. There are two check valves. The first is inside the fuel pressure regulator that sits on top of the gas tank. If that check valve goes bad it usually means the engine won't start quickly even seconds or minutes after shutting it off. If the check valve inside the fuel pump goes bad, that normally means the engine will start quickly if it hasn't be standing for a longer period of like overnight. When it takes hours for it to stop starting quickly, that's normally a sign of the fuel pump (which has the check valve inside) needs to be replaced.
the darn thing runs great after I cycle the key on a cold start. So it has a new carquest fuel pump in it . Mopar wants $680.00 for a new fuel pump. That’s not going to happen.

What do you think of this. Bypass the relay to fuel pump with a switch in the cab so I can force the pump to stay on continuous on cold stars?
 
Man there’s got to be anothe
So

the darn thing runs great after I cycle the key on a cold start. So it has a new carquest fuel pump in it . Mopar wants $680.00 for a new fuel pump. That’s not going to happen.

What do you think of this. Bypass the relay to fuel pump with a switch in the cab so I can force the pump to stay on continuous on cold stars?
 
So

the darn thing runs great after I cycle the key on a cold start. So it has a new carquest fuel pump in it . Mopar wants $680.00 for a new fuel pump. That’s not going to happen.

What do you think of this. Bypass the relay to fuel pump with a switch in the cab so I can force the pump to stay on continuous on cold stars?
There are thousands of posts on these issues and I definitely would not bypass the relay. The OE manufacturer for the fuel pump is Bosch and you can buy a new Bosch fuel pump for $70-80 or so. Store brand fuel pumps commonly have check valve problems not long after installing them. I tried a Spectra fuel pump 15-18 years ago and it lasted all of 13 months... 1 month after its warranty expired. There are only two brands of fuel pumps I'll trust is the Bosch 69316 and Delphi FE0300 like can be found on www.rockauto.com and Amazon.com
 
The Bosch fuel pump
There are thousands of posts on these issues and I definitely would not bypass the relay. The OE manufacturer for the fuel pump is Bosch and you can buy a new Bosch fuel pump for $70-80 or so. Store brand fuel pumps commonly have check valve problems not long after installing them. I tried a Spectra fuel pump 15-18 years ago and it lasted all of 13 months... 1 month after its warranty expired. There are only two brands of fuel pumps I'll trust is the Bosch 69316 and Delphi FE0300 like can be found on www.rockauto.com and Amazon.com
The Bosch fuel pump
67655 is no longer available
 
If you can find a Bosch fuel pump for $70 or $80.00 please let me know where ? The dealer wants $680.00 us. That’s crazy.
The Bosch 69316 I show as correct for a 97 is $70 on Rockauto and $56 on Amazon.com

Screenshot_2019-09-07-19-41-10.png
 
Well here we go again . No fuel . I notice that when I turn the key on some times the fuel gauge and the alternator dont move some times the alternator gauge moves and not the fuel gauge . When the fuel gauge don’t move it won’t start cycle the key switch when the fuel gauge moves it will start .
and even after the engine is warmed up and I know the fuel hasn’t had time to drain back into the tank. So now I’m thinking the fuel pump is not working because of maybe the key switch
 
Well here we go again . No fuel . I notice that when I turn the key on some times the fuel gauge and the alternator dont move some times the alternator gauge moves and not the fuel gauge . When the fuel gauge don’t move it won’t start cycle the key switch when the fuel gauge moves it will start .
and even after the engine is warmed up and I know the fuel hasn’t had time to drain back into the tank. So now I’m thinking the fuel pump is not working because of maybe the key switch
here's a suggestion swap out the fuel pump relay and also check and see if the wire to the fuel pump is dangling. My jeep did some funky stuff like the fuel gauge would jump around from empty to full and sometimes not start all from the wires dangling, i would just check that and swap the fuel pump relay just to rule that out.
 
here's a suggestion swap out the fuel pump relay and also check and see if the wire to the fuel pump is dangling. My jeep did some funky stuff like the fuel gauge would jump around from empty to full and sometimes not start all from the wires dangling, i would just check that and swap the fuel pump relay just to rule that out.
I’ve tried a different start relay and wire to fuel pump is in good shape.
 
Get a volt meter on the vehicle side of the fuel pump harness plug to confirm you are getting 12V momentarily when the key is turned on. I pulled my hair out for hours until I found a corroded wire just upstream from the connector. I had to de-pin the connector and repair the harness.
 
Loss of fuel in the lines from a bad check valve is the cause for long start cycles where you need to prime the fuel line by repeatedly turning the ignition switch on-off-on. There are two check valves. The first is inside the fuel pressure regulator that sits on top of the gas tank. If that check valve goes bad it usually means the engine won't start quickly even seconds or minutes after shutting it off. If the check valve inside the fuel pump goes bad, that normally means the engine will start quickly if it hasn't be standing for a longer period of like overnight. When it takes hours for it to stop starting quickly, that's normally a sign of the fuel pump (which has the check valve inside) needs to be replaced.

This is great information and should be stickied somewhere, if not already. This confirms my thoughts on my fuel pump being the cause of long starts after a prolonged period of being off.