Game on—and other welding tips for newbies

fixmysix

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So this little gem was a father's day present to myself. I'm about to start a pretty custom build which will include making a lot of hot metal stick to other hot metal. I was inspired by @toximus and his dedication to learning each fabrication component of his build as he went through it. Anybody have any thoughts, tips, tricks, books, websites, etc to help me build this skill? Thanks y'all. And happy Father's day weekend.

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I self-taught myself Mig welding and got my weekend job to pay for Tig welding school. Between the two and all the reading, youtubing, asking questions I did, the consensus afterwards is practice, practice, practice. Get yourself some scrap and go to town on it running your machine through its paces. You will be 10x more confident when it comes to burning metal on something much more important.

Only other advice.. look around before you pull the trigger. I seem to always have a can of solvent, paint or some other kind of grenade sitting nearby when i'm about to tack something together. Safety!!
 
Get extra contact tips and at least one extra cup.

I would run .035" wire and 75/25 gas.

Start with recommended settings and practice flat welds first. When you first strike an arc let your puddle build a little before you begin moving in a circular motion. Keep the tip at an angle and push the weld away from you (in lieu of "pulling it"). Next start welding fillets on some scrap (still flat) before you think about welding a vertical or overhead weld. If you haven't already, get an auto-darkening helmet.

Mig (GMAW) is a lot easier to learn (IMO) than stick (SMAW) or tig (GTAW).
 
How much was that ? I need to start learning to weld as well.
Do you want the , what I told my wife price, or actual? 😉 So I did a ton of research and personally decided this was the best deal for me. It's a refurbished Hobart Handler 190. $540 plus a whopping $7 in shipping. It looks brand new. I did have to put my name on a waiting list as they don't always have them in stock. I bought directly from Hobart. After talking to my friends that weeks for a living, the consensus seemed to be that the refurbished units with as well, and I'm most cases, better than a standard new unit. Possibly because the refurbs go through a more in depth hands on testing, tuning than the new ones. What I didn't realize was the expense of all the extras. Gas tank, hood, grinder, table, clamps, etc. Plan on $1000ish just to have the basics. My garage is a woodshop, and I have tool....... problem? Basically nothing transfers to metal work. I'm still incredibly excited to learn a new skill and start building things in a new way.
 
I self-taught myself Mig welding and got my weekend job to pay for Tig welding school. Between the two and all the reading, youtubing, asking questions I did, the consensus afterwards is practice, practice, practice. Get yourself some scrap and go to town on it running your machine through its paces. You will be 10x more confident when it comes to burning metal on something much more important.

Only other advice.. look around before you pull the trigger. I seem to always have a can of solvent, paint or some other kind of grenade sitting nearby when i'm about to tack something together. Safety!!
That's good advice. I'm looking for a scrap source. And my welder is sharing space with my woodshop. That's safe right? Time to look in to dust collection. And fire extinguishers.
 
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Do you want the , what I told my wife price, or actual? 😉 So I did a ton of research and personally decided this was the best deal for me. It's a refurbished Hobart Handler 190. $540 plus a whopping $7 in shipping. It looks brand new. I did have to put my name on a waiting list as they don't always have them in stock. I bought directly from Hobart. After talking to my friends that weeks for a living, the consensus seemed to be that the refurbished units with as well, and I'm most cases, better than a standard new unit. Possibly because the refurbs go through a more in depth hands on testing, tuning than the new ones. What I didn't realize was the expense of all the extras. Gas tank, hood, grinder, table, clamps, etc. Plan on $1000ish just to have the basics. My garage is a woodshop, and I have tool....... problem? Basically nothing transfers to metal work. I'm still incredibly excited to learn a new skill and start building things in a new way.

That is a reasonable price. I have began the search for a welder. So many welders on Offer up but I have no clue whats a good welder or not. Refurbished sounds good because at least you’ll know someone has tested the welder unlike a used one. I also seen welders that only do flux? Or Mig/Flux combo? What does the Hobart you bought weld? Seems like I just fell into another rabbit hole.
 
Basically nothing transfers to metal work.

I was a custom cabinet/furniture maker for 30 years (off and on) before I went into the metal world at 46 years old. The hardest part for me was what you are doing now, welding. You will find a lot of what we call "shop smarts" carry over to metal work. Tools are different, but hand-eye coordination, layout, etc will be like old times. Just understanding how things go together is a huge help. Hardest thing for me hiring new people was simply the ability to read a tape measure and understand a basic print.

Keep in mind metal moves with heat - not moisture like wood does. This means every time you weld you are introducing heat into the stock. Make sure you tack your fitment well before you start laying a lot of filler, or you'll find yourself locked into a twisted mess...
 
That is a reasonable price. I have began the search for a welder. So many welders on Offer up but I have no clue whats a good welder or not. Refurbished sounds good because at least you’ll know someone has tested the welder unlike a used one. I also seen welders that only do flux? Or Mig/Flux combo? What does the Hobart you bought weld? Seems like I just fell into another rabbit hole.
It's a MIG/flux combo. I think it's a great unit for what I'm planning to do. Welds up to 5/16. As far as used, you never know if it was used all day every day in a shop, or twice a year by a lady making bird houses. My used market had a very limited selection of decent used welders and sometimes the cost of getting them in good working order was more than what I paid. Please take everything I say with a grain of salt. While I've spent countless hours doing research online and talking to professionals I literally have zero experience actually welding. This unit is what I think is the best choice for me and the projects I have planned. I will say that Hobart is made by the same company as Miller and some of the basic parts are interchangeable. Parts do wear out and having a local source for them is also important. I think I made all that clear as mud.
 
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I was a custom cabinet/furniture maker for 30 years (off and on) before I went into the metal world at 46 years old. The hardest part for me was what you are doing now, welding. You will find a lot of what we call "shop smarts" carry over to metal work. Tools are different, but hand-eye coordination, layout, etc will be like old times. Just understanding how things go together is a huge help. Hardest thing for me hiring new people was simply the ability to read a tape measure and understand a basic print.

Keep in mind metal moves with heat - not moisture like wood does. This means every time you weld you are introducing heat into the stock. Make sure you tack your fitment well before you start laying a lot of filler, or you'll find yourself locked into a twisted mess...
So my 1962 Delta Unisaw is drool worthy? Jokes aside, that is some fantastic advice. It just makes sense. Especially heat vs moisture. I think I'm going to be ok. Thanks.
 
Nice! The only thing I'll say is that welding is a perishable skill. I used to be "acceptable" at it, but I haven't run a bead since about 1988 and I'd have to start all over again.
 
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That's a good brand, my first MIG welder was a Hobart and it was a good one. My best advice, as nothing more than a 'hack' welder, is to go to your local metal scrap yard and buy a whole bunch of scrap 1/8" to 3/16" steel and start laying a whole bunch of practice beads and start welding them together. Those two sizes will cover most anything you're likely to find in the Jeep. Get some bigger pieces of 3/16" too since their larger size will take more heat to weld and give you better practice for times when you need to weld a large piece.
 
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All good advice. As already stated begin with in position welding. Once you get comfortable with that, start practicing vertical welds. When you have those mastered, you can move up to overhead welds. Before you know it, you’ll be building stuff all the time. Good skill to have.
 
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Welding is something I haven't done in about a decade. I have tried a couple different little things here and there lately but found that my current bifocals focus a little too far and/or a little too close. Now that I've read about practicing on random scrap I'll probably be trying again just to see what I can accomplish before my insurance will pay for new glasses around Labor Day.

As little as I can currently do, I do know this, AVOID BRAKE CLEANER WHEN WELDING.
 
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Best advice ever is to practice. Worst advice ever is to expect some magical tip movement to create the basis for a nice sound weld. Practice fillets using a consistent 45 degree 45 degree tip angle and learn how to move the tip consistently down the weld path using only speed and maintaining the angle to produce a weld that is slightly convex but looks like you wiped a bead of caulking in there.

FYI, maximum tip movement in a normal 3/16" to 1/4" weld is 1/16" or roughly twice the electrode diameter.
 
Look up Mike Finnegan on youtube. He used to work for Hot Rod magazine, Motortrend, and owns a speed shop. (He is not some youtuber that doesn't know anything). He does a bunch of welding videos and has guests on that could help you out.
 
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Best advice ever is to practice. Worst advice ever is to expect some magical tip movement to create the basis for a nice sound weld. Practice fillets using a consistent 45 degree 45 degree tip angle and learn how to move the tip consistently down the weld path using only speed and maintaining the angle to produce a weld that is slightly convex but looks like you wiped a bead of caulking in there.

FYI, maximum tip movement in a normal 3/16" to 1/4" weld is 1/16" or roughly twice the electrode diameter.
That is significantly less tip movement than I thought. Thanks for that. I've seen pictures of your welds and that is what I'm working towards. I plan on burning through a couple spools and bottles before I touch my Jeep. I'll post some pictures of the welds in the next week or so, and if you have time to give any suggestions I would appreciate it. Thanks again and happy Father's day to you (?), and/or other dad's around you.
 
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That is significantly less tip movement than I thought. Thanks for that. I've seen pictures of your welds and that is what I'm working towards. I plan on burning through a couple spools and bottles before I touch my Jeep. I'll post some pictures of the welds in the next week or so, and if you have time to give any suggestions I would appreciate it. Thanks again and happy Father's day to you (?), and/or other dad's around you.
It is best to learn speed first. As you get better and in more positions where you need to accomplish something, the small bit of tip movement will come naturally. What you want to avoid is expecting tip movement to compensate for bad habits over speed and control of the weld puddle. You want to move the tip at a rate that fills the weld profile and then we can use that to give you tips about heat and speed. The key to learning how to weld is learning to identify the mistake you are making via weld appearance and then adjusting to correct.
 
if you can walk your puddle and leave enough filler and almost no spatter your gettin close. watching the puddle is key.

i had a GOV inspector try and fail my welds this wk, she didn't like me running a steady pass. she insisted that did not look correct to her and it should appear as stacked disc's (parlor tricks).......she could not get a single weld to fail and she tried like hell not to be as wrong as she was.