Gauges don't work

I consulted a friend that is a long time Jeep technician; the wiring for the early released 97 model in Spring 96 thru Fall 97 and even into early 98 had different wiring in the cluster and other areas of the vehicle.
My FSM does not address the differences in those years...
 
Y
CharlesHS said:
I consulted a friend that is a long time Jeep technician; the wiring for the early released 97 model in Spring 96 thru Fall 97 and even into early 98 had different wiring in the cluster and other areas of the vehicle.
My FSM does not address the differences in those years...
Click to expand...
Yes Ive read it is different. That’s why I called it a 96 1/2. The date stamped on the steel behind the cluster says like 2/14/96 and the white sticker on door for date of manf. Says 3/96. I’m going to go to town and buy a headlight switch tomorrow and hope that fixes my cluster and HVAC lamps and maybe will magically fix the bus signal too. Will update tomorrow.
 
Dfrost89 said:
Yes Ive read it is different. That’s why I called it a 96 1/2. The date stamped on the steel behind the cluster says like 2/14/96 and the white sticker on door for date of manf. Says 3/96. I’m going to go to town and buy a headlight switch tomorrow and hope that fixes my cluster and HVAC lamps and maybe will magically fix the bus signal too. Will update tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Check on the Electrical Wiring page 8W-40-4 thru 11 of the Forum Sticky PDF for 1997 Jeep Wranglers.

1997 Jeep TJ FSM
 
Last edited:
I bought a new light switch today and it did not do anything to the cluster illumination or the HVAC controls illumination. With a test light I checked for power on the plugs for the cluster. On the left plug I had power on pin 8 and 9 and on right plug I had no power and any of the pins. This was with the key on and the cluster unhooked.
 
Measure pin 6 to ground to see if you have continuity...
Pin 3 should have voltage to the instrument cluster back lighting when the ignition is ON and the parking lights are selected.
 
CharlesHS said:
Measure pin 6 to ground to see if you have continuity...
Pin 3 should have voltage to the instrument cluster back lighting when the ignition is ON and the parking lights are selected.
Click to expand...
I will have to purchase me a multi meter when I’m in town after bit. I did try all the pins with the headlights on cause I thought you might ask that and had same results. I will take my test light and hook to a known positive and check that ground on pin 6.
 
Dfrost89 said:
Since I have owned the Jeep they have never for me. They guy I bought it from have a heads up display that displays tac, speed, temp, 12v. But the oil pressure has been old schooled and a line to a gauge
Click to expand...

How is this heads up display installed? Based on reading here I would guess that the PO installed that heads up display in lieu of the cluster, hence why all the illumination bulbs were removed.

I'd dig into that HUD and figure out how it is getting information. It has to be spliced or teed into the lines between the PCM & instrument cluster somehow. If you want to get rid of the HUD I'd recommend figuring out how to remove it and return the system to spec.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Daryl
With key off and a positive from battery on test light.
left plug is showing ground on pin 1,5,6,8,10 and right plug pin 6.
With the key on, on left plug I lose ground on pin 8 and right plug is same.
Now with a ground lead on test light with key on and lights on. Power to left plug on 1,8,9 and nothing on right plug.
Beating your head on the floor? Me too😫
 
qslim said:
How is this heads up display installed? Based on reading here I would guess that the PO installed that heads up display in lieu of the cluster, hence why all the illumination bulbs were removed.

I'd dig into that HUD and figure out how it is getting information. It has to be spliced or teed into the lines between the PCM & instrument cluster somehow. If you want to get rid of the HUD I'd recommend figuring out how to remove it and return the system to spec.
Click to expand...
The heads up display is through the obd2 it’s not spliced in.
 
  • Like
Reactions: qslim
Dfrost89 said:
With key off and a positive from battery on test light.
left plug is showing ground on pin 1,5,6,8,10 and right plug pin 6.
With the key on, on left plug I lose ground on pin 8 and right plug is same.
Now with a ground lead on test light with key on and lights on. Power to left plug on 1,8,9 and nothing on right plug.
Beating your head on the floor? Me too😫
Click to expand...

Pin 3 is positive to illuminate the cluster back lighting bulbs, pin 6 is the ground for those lights and there is also a ground coming from the ignition switch Run/Start one of these goes thru the Trip Reset push button on the cluster.
IF all of these are good... then those bulbs should illuminate unless there is something wrong with the cluster.
 
Dfrost89 said:
The heads up display is through the obd2 it’s not spliced in.
Click to expand...
And all the il
CharlesHS said:
Pin 3 is positive to illuminate the cluster back lighting bulbs, pin 6 is the ground for those lights and there is also a ground coming from the ignition switch Run/Start one of these goes thru the Trip Reset push button on the cluster.
IF all of these are good... then those bulbs should illuminate unless there is something wrong with the cluster.
Click to expand...
what I don’t understand is even if something is wrong in the cluster or the bulbs are burnt or w.e I should still get back lights at the heater controls correct?
 
I noticed the metal was pretty rusty behind the cluster. So I started taking the all the Screws for the dash out and pull it back it’s all rusty. The whole metal bracket behind the plastic dash is surface rusted. I found grounds by the front speakers But what other grounds go to this rusty bracket

E3FBA3CE-4D5A-4AA2-9526-E49897E3F132.jpeg


A817B66F-0C2C-4341-9A0D-7D119CF000DA.jpeg
 
Dfrost89 said:
I can do without the back lights, back to the bus signal wiring for the gauges does anyone know any of that. Or have any input on that topic?
Click to expand...

CCD Bus - is terminal pin 1 (white/black) and CCD Bus + is terminal pin 2 (violet/brown) which is fed from the Powertrain Control Module on pins 28 & 30 of the PCM. These wires are a twisted pair.
 
  • Like
Reactions: qslim
CharlesHS said:
CCD Bus - is terminal pin 1 (white/black) and CCD Bus + is terminal pin 2 (violet/brown) which is fed from the Powertrain Control Module on pins 28 & 30 of the PCM. These wires are a twisted pair.
Click to expand...

Good point, the twist is there to help mitigate EMI, one should make sure the twist is present all the way to the terminal ends
 
So I took a wire brush and drill to my rusty dash bracket and was able to get lamps on at my heater control then when I plug the cluster in my turn signals and high beam lights in cluster are faintly flashing. Then if I take my illumination wire in my stereo(because my aftermarket stereo doesn’t have a illumination wire) and hook it to the 12v the flashing stops in the cluster and the turn signals and high beam are brighter. Wtf!! I guess keep cleaning on the rusty bracket as much as I can. And see if it helps anymore.
 
  • Like
Reactions: qslim
Dfrost89 said:
So I took a wire brush and drill to my rusty dash bracket and was able to get lamps on at my heater control then when I plug the cluster in my turn signals and high beam lights in cluster are faintly flashing. Then if I take my illumination wire in my stereo(because my aftermarket stereo doesn’t have a illumination wire) and hook it to the 12v the flashing stops in the cluster and the turn signals and high beam are brighter. Wtf!! I guess keep cleaning on the rusty bracket as much as I can. And see if it helps anymore.
Click to expand...

Didn't realize that you metal (ground) bracing was so rusty until I looked at that one picture...
Looks like you have some grounding issues.....
 
Dfrost89 said:
So I took a wire brush and drill to my rusty dash bracket and was able to get lamps on at my heater control then when I plug the cluster in my turn signals and high beam lights in cluster are faintly flashing. Then if I take my illumination wire in my stereo(because my aftermarket stereo doesn’t have a illumination wire) and hook it to the 12v the flashing stops in the cluster and the turn signals and high beam are brighter. Wtf!! I guess keep cleaning on the rusty bracket as much as I can. And see if it helps anymore.
Click to expand...

Do you have a meter? You can check these grounds to the - battery terminal and see what you’re getting. Shouldn’t be much more than a couple of ohms.
 
Top Bottom
Back