Getting up to 33's

GeorgeB

GeorgeB

TJ Enthusiast
Lifetime Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
196
Location
Nazareth,PA
I have an 20006, 4.0L on 31s with Dana 35/30 right now. Running on an OME 2.5" lift with the t-case drop. Also have a full set of Metalcloak double adjustable control arms. By next summer I want to build up to 33's.

To spread out the expense and work I was thinking about putting in the DC driveshaft, SYE and adjustable track bars now. Any thoughts on reasonableness for that plan? If I do the driveshaft now, would 33's impact it later? Next summer I'd do the regear, locker and body lift.

Thanks!
 
The length of the driveshaft you need is going to change with different lift heights. You can always buy a driveshaft now and have it resized later, won’t cost you that much.
 
Installing the components isn’t that hard. It’s tricky at points but isn’t that hard and doesn’t require many special tools.
 
Get 33s and put them on before you do any re gear. My 5 speed wasn’t awful with stock gears 3.73s around town. If I’m not mistaken the 6 speed has an overall lower ratio spread than the nv 3550.
 
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Wtrask said:
Get 33s and put them on before you do any re gear. My 5 speed wasn’t awful with stock gears 3.73s around town. If I’m not mistaken the 6 speed has an overall lower ratio spread than the nv 3550.
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I was just about to say this. when you put the tires on you'll realize 33's and 3.73 with the manual will still have plenty of torque around the city but if he's trying to crawl he might want to go 4.56. personally id stay with the 3.73 with these gas prices!
 
GeorgeB said:
I have an 20006, 4.0L on 31s with Dana 35/30 right now. Running on an OME 2.5" lift with the t-case drop. Also have a full set of Metalcloak double adjustable control arms. By next summer I want to build up to 33's.

To spread out the expense and work I was thinking about putting in the DC driveshaft, SYE and adjustable track bars now. Any thoughts on reasonableness for that plan? If I do the driveshaft now, would 33's impact it later? Next summer I'd do the regear, locker and body lift.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Why do you need a SYE and new driveshaft? I don’t see a tummy tuck mentioned.
 
Wtrask said:
Get 33s and put them on before you do any re gear. My 5 speed wasn’t awful with stock gears 3.73s around town. If I’m not mistaken the 6 speed has an overall lower ratio spread than the nv 3550.
Click to expand...
Bodil40 said:
I was just about to say this. when you put the tires on you'll realize 33's and 3.73 with the manual will still have plenty of torque around the city but if he's trying to crawl he might want to go 4.56. personally id stay with the 3.73 with these gas prices
Click to expand...

I disagree. He's in PA.
We have hills. Many. I can't drive a mile in any direction without hitting a hill in some way shape or form.
Perhaps he might not have the mountains I do in the other half of the state...but it's still going to have its hills.

31's with 3.73 is the max I'd go...
The OP is already there.
4.10's and a 6 cylinder can afford a 32...possibly a smallish 33 but it will still suffer in a mountainous area like this.
It's absolutely at the max wall of semi satisfactory performance.

3.73's and 33's in Pennsylvania would be very irritating.
 
I have the 6 cylinder, 6 speed manual & 12.50/33 KO2s. I just recently had 4.56 gears installed & it’s FANTASTIC! On the highway this puts the TJ at 2,750 RPM at 65 mph which is the speed I like & I can depend on getting around 15 or 16 mpg which I consider acceptable for a Jeep. If your concerned about gas mileage, I think mine might have actually improved a bit because the engine isn’t lugging all the time & I don’t have to keep my foot in it just to maintain highway speed. Be sure to get the proper speedometer gear for your tire/gear set up. Mine is the 39 tooth gear.
 
All great advice. I've learned that if there's any doubts....ask on here before pulling the trigger!
 
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