Going back to stock suspension?

D

Devin Ross

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Joined
Feb 19, 2018
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Ohio, USA
Hi all, new to the forum. I actually just purchased my first wrangler 2 weeks ago. It is a 1997 with a 4" lift and 131,xxx miles on it. As it currently sits, it has a 4" lift with Rancho RS5000 rear shocks and Skyjacker H7016 on the front (brand new) I plan on changing these out just needed a quick fix as the old ones were about to fall apart.

I basically replaced the whole front end this past weekend with all moog tie rods, ends, and drag link. Re-did the sway bar links and front shocks as well. (the skyjackers).

Okay so here is my problem, I am considering dropping it back down to stock height due to it being my daily driver and I don't do a lot of off-roading. I know i would need to replace the shocks and coils. What else would i need? and is it worth it in terms of handling and MPG or am I going to do this and find only a minimal difference?
 
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Here's a pic
1519055022702.JPEG
 
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Shocks, springs, stock control arms. The 2.5's are great engines, and aren't a liability off road when properly geared. They don't do particularly well merging on the Freeway or climbing steep hills with a load. They do well with 31 or 32" tires and proper gears. Keep the RPM's between 2,500 and 3,000. Keep your speed down for best gas mileage.

The 2.5 won't get appreciably better mileage than the 4.0. That's a function of the drive train and the barn like aerodynamics of a TJ.

What are your expectations for fuel economy ?
 
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I was wasn't expecting much for fuel economy really, I only drive 5 miles to work but i figured every little bit may help. I am mostly worried in terms of the handling and suspension components, I don't want to be putting more wear on the vehicle than necessary.

Don't get me wrong as i love the look of the lift, I just don't feel its necessary for me to put extra strain on my drive train if i don't have to.
 
Devin Ross said:
I was wasn't expecting much for fuel economy really, I only drive 5 miles to work but i figured every little bit may help. I am mostly worried in terms of the handling and suspension components, I don't want to be putting more wear on the vehicle than necessary.

Don't get me wrong as i love the look of the lift, I just don't feel its necessary for me to put extra strain on my drive train if i don't have to.
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A well engineered TJ on a 4" lift is only very slightly more stressed than a stock TJ. If all the components are set up for your tire size and environment, then you're good to go. The 2.5 needs gears to reliably push anything bigger than stock sized tires. The biggest practical tire size for an SE is 32 to 33", then you need to start swapping axles to get deeper gears.
 
Personally, if it was me I would just go with a mild lift like the Old Man Emu 2.5" suspension lift (this is what I run), which will be just a little taller than stock, but you can run a 31" tire with ease. This will look good, perform good, and it won't break the bank. This is a very mild lift, but it's the most popular "small" lifts on the market. It rides exceptionally well too!
 
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Chris said:
Personally, if it was me I would just go with a mild lift like the Old Man Emu 2.5" suspension lift (this is what I run), which will be just a little taller than stock, but you can run a 31" tire with ease. This will look good, perform good, and it won't break the bank. This is a very mild lift, but it's the most popular "small" lifts on the market. It rides exceptionally well too!
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Or H&R springs, appropriate shocks and stock suspension components. Those work very well on an SE, and are a good match for a 31" tire on and off road. The H&R springs will net about 1-1/2" on an SE.
 
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Chris said:
Personally, if it was me I would just go with a mild lift like the Old Man Emu 2.5" suspension lift (this is what I run), which will be just a little taller than stock, but you can run a 31" tire with ease. This will look good, perform good, and it won't break the bank. This is a very mild lift, but it's the most popular "small" lifts on the market. It rides exceptionally well too!
Click to expand...

I may just save up for the OME suspension. As I have heard a lot of good things and it is mostly road driven. it would have to wait until after I do the ball joints though.

StG58 said:
Or H&R springs, appropriate shocks and stock suspension components. Those work very well on an SE, and are a good match for a 31" tire on and off road. The H&R springs will net about 1-1/2" on an SE.
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As for this option would I just need to do the coils, shocks, and sway bar links? I know it has a 4" lift but does that necessarily mean they had to put the Yolk eliminator on it?

Also, I just had it aligned after doing the tie rods and I just noticed I still have to turn the steering wheel appx. 10 degrees to stay straight? I don't know how it could be the components as I replaced everything except the track bar and pitman arm in terms.
 
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At the same time Devin, if every thing is working well on the Jeep at 4" of lift, and as said above, it's only a minor strain on your components, and you like the look, then why change anything? It's hard for us to know if you have a Slip Yoke Eliminator and Double Cardan Drive Shaft without you looking underneath at the Transfer Case output and drive shaft there. It's possible you have a Transfer Case drop, but it would be a pretty big drop I would imagine to eliminate vibes. We can't see that either. Some pics of the drivers or passenger's side under the door looking at the side of the frame will show us if it has a drop.

As far as the steering wheel, are you saying it's not centered? If so, that's a relatively easy fix by adjusting the clamp on the drag link. It's easiest to loosen that clamp and then get someone behind the wheel in the Jeep, have them straighten the steering wheel and hold it straight. Then you adjust till the tires look like they are straight ahead. Tighten the clamp back up. Then go test drive. You may have to re-adjust a few times to get it just right.
 
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Devin Ross said:
As for this option would I just need to do the coils, shocks, and sway bar links? I know it has a 4" lift but does that necessarily mean they had to put the Yolk eliminator on it?

Also, I just had it aligned after doing the tie rods and I just noticed I still have to turn the steering wheel appx. 10 degrees to stay straight? I don't know how it could be the components as I replaced everything except the track bar and pitman arm in terms.
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Coils and shocks only, unless the sway bar links are longer than stock. Depending on the shocks you get, you may need to put additional bump stop in, but probably not. No slip yoke eliminater required.

You can center the steering wheel at home in the driveway with basic hand tools. For that matter, a TJ alignment is easy to check and adjust. There's a good write up here on that subject in the how to's.
 
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JMT said:
At the same time Devin, if every thing is working well on the Jeep at 4" of lift, and as said above, it's only a minor strain on your components, and you like the look, then why change anything? It's hard for us to know if you have a Slip Yoke Eliminator and Double Cardan Drive Shaft without you looking underneath at the Transfer Case output and drive shaft there. It's possible you have a Transfer Case drop, but it would be a pretty big drop I would imagine to eliminate vibes. We can't see that either. Some pics of the drivers or passenger's side under the door looking at the side of the frame will show us if it has a drop.

As far as the steering wheel, are you saying it's not centered? If so, that's a relatively easy fix by adjusting the clamp on the drag link. It's easiest to loosen that clamp and then get someone behind the wheel in the Jeep, have them straighten the steering wheel and hold it straight. Then you adjust till the tires look like they are straight ahead. Tighten the clamp back up. Then go test drive. You may have to re-adjust a few times to get it just right.
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I may try that but i am not sure how confident I am doing that after spending $80 on an alignment, I'll see if they will check it out it will only be my third time having to return. haha.

On yet another side note, my jeep has also been giving me hell on turn over, I know this is a common problem but has anyone been able to fix this issue? I havent found much on people fixing it.?
 
StG58 said:
Coils and shocks only, unless the sway bar links are longer than stock. Depending on the shocks you get, you may need to put additional bump stop in, but probably not. No slip yoke eliminater required.

You can center the steering wheel at home in the driveway with basic hand tools. For that matter, a TJ alignment is easy to check and adjust. There's a good write up here on that subject in the how to's.
Click to expand...

I may go the H&R route as i looked at the reviews and if what they are saying is true it looks like it's really worth it.
 
What are you going to do about tires? What size are they currently? Going back to stock height you might not have much fender clearance if they are bigger than 32" tire.

Take it back to the alignment shop and make them fix it proper. After spending $80 they need to make it right.

Like said above, we need to get a look under the belly to see what's there and what's not there. Lets see the front track bar, TC skid, rear drive shaft and lower coil spring perches to see if you have extended bump stops.
 
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bobthetj03 said:
What are you going to do about tires? What size are they currently? Going back to stock height you might not have much fender clearance if they are bigger than 32" tire.

Take it back to the alignment shop and make them fix it proper. After spending $80 they need to make it right.

Like said above, we need to get a look under the belly to see what's there and what's not there. Lets see the front track bar, TC skid, rear drive shaft and lower coil spring perches to see if you have extended bump stops.
Click to expand...

Okay I'll snap a few pics after work and as of right now there are 31" tires on it
 
Devin Ross said:
On yet another side note, my jeep has also been giving me hell on turn over, I know this is a common problem but has anyone been able to fix this issue? I havent found much on people fixing it.?
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Not quite sure what 'turn over' is...can you clarify?

Curious that the previous owner lifted it 4" just for 31" tires. Unless you are thrilled with the way it looks and handles now, I am sure you will like the OME or HR spring setup so much better with those tires.
 
Devin Ross said:
As in getting it to crank over and start, it will crank and crank when i turn the key but it takes several attempts to get the engine to start.
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Start with a fuel pressure test, cranking multiple times builds pressure to allow it to start.
 
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