Has anyone used the front speaker pods to install a tweeter?

[GorillaBiscuit]

Hey, sorry to post this if there is already a thread, but I didn't see one specifically about the 4" speakers and tweeters in the factory premium sound system.

Anyway, I wanted to ask if anyone ever uses the front speaker pods that came with the premium sound system. The plastic pods that have a 4" speaker on the bottom and a tweeter on top. Every tutorial I find, people throw away these speaker pods and just replace them with a 5.25" speaker. I want to see what it sounds like to put a new 4" speaker and tweeter into the pods.
If anyone has done this, let me know if it sounds good or just a waste of time.
Thanks!

 

[Sundowner]

Hey, sorry to post this if there is already a thread, but I didn't see one specifically about the 4" speakers and tweeters in the factory premium sound system.

Anyway, I wanted to ask if anyone ever uses the front speaker pods that came with the premium sound system. The plastic pods that have a 4" speaker on the bottom and a tweeter on top. Every tutorial I find, people throw away these speaker pods and just replace them with a 5.25" speaker. I want to see what it sounds like to put a new 4" speaker and tweeter into the pods.
If anyone has done this, let me know if it sounds good or just a waste of time.
Thanks!

It's very doable, but the results will be entirely dependent on the selection of components and how good of a job you do at isolating them. There's no blanket answer, here.

 

[bedhed]

I did. I replaced the original tweeters with Dayton Audio ND20FA-6. As you may already know, the original tweeters aren't round. If I remember right, the outer diameter is octagon shaped, so the Dayton tweeters I trimmed to the same shape as the originals, so that they would twist and lock into place just as the originals.

The woofers I replaced with FaitalPro 3FE22. I bought the 3" only because I wanted 4ohm, instead of 8ohm that the 4" comes in. The power handling is low enough to run off of a factory headunit, but still capable of handling more with aftermarket equipment. I have been thoroughly impressed with these woofers.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd20fa-6-3-4-soft-dome-neodymium-tweeter--275-030https://www.parts-express.com/faita...rofessional-full-range-woofer-4-ohm--294-1100

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

I did. I replaced the original tweeters with Dayton Audio ND20FA-6. As you may already know, the original tweeters aren't round. If I remember right, the outer diameter is octagon shaped, so the Dayton tweeters I trimmed to the same shape as the originals, so that they would twist and lock into place just as the originals.

The woofers I replaced with FaitalPro 3FE22. I bought the 3" only because I wanted 4ohm, instead of 8ohm that the 4" comes in. The power handling is low enough to run off of a factory headunit, but still capable of handling more with aftermarket equipment. I have been thoroughly impressed with these woofers.

View attachment 140152
View attachment 140153

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd20fa-6-3-4-soft-dome-neodymium-tweeter--275-030https://www.parts-express.com/faita...rofessional-full-range-woofer-4-ohm--294-1100

Very cleanly done!

 

[bedhed]

Very cleanly done!

Thanks!

 

[GorillaBiscuit]

Hey @bedhed , that's awesome! It's so funny that you posted this, I'm currently in the process of upgrading my audio right now! Lol
I'm also keeping the speaker pods, and replacing the 4" speaker with the Skar Audio RPX4 speakers and just keeping the factory tweets for now.
I'm replacing the 5 1/4" soundbar speakers with the Skar Audio RPX525 speakers.
I replaced the factory subwoofer with the Kicker CompRT 6 3/4" 2 ohm subwoofer.
The 4" front speakers and rear 5 1/4" speakers are just running off of the Factory1 stock head unit, and the 6 3/4" sub is running off of the factory amp.
That Kicker 6 3/4" really sounds great! Even for just running off of the little factory 80 watt amp! Lol
I also installed an AudioControl LC2i that's sending signal to a Skar Audio single EVL6.5" 400 watt bass package.
It's not a set up that will win any SPL comps, but I think it's going to be pretty sweet when I'm done.

 

[89grand]

I did. I replaced the original tweeters with Dayton Audio ND20FA-6. As you may already know, the original tweeters aren't round. If I remember right, the outer diameter is octagon shaped, so the Dayton tweeters I trimmed to the same shape as the originals, so that they would twist and lock into place just as the originals.

The woofers I replaced with FaitalPro 3FE22. I bought the 3" only because I wanted 4ohm, instead of 8ohm that the 4" comes in. The power handling is low enough to run off of a factory headunit, but still capable of handling more with aftermarket equipment. I have been thoroughly impressed with these woofers.

View attachment 140152
View attachment 140153

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd20fa-6-3-4-soft-dome-neodymium-tweeter--275-030https://www.parts-express.com/faita...rofessional-full-range-woofer-4-ohm--294-1100

I like your thinking outside the box. I don't use them currently for anything, but I have a pair of those FaitalPro drivers myself.

 

[bedhed]

Hey @bedhed , that's awesome! It's so funny that you posted this, I'm currently in the process of upgrading my audio right now! Lol
I'm also keeping the speaker pods, and replacing the 4" speaker with the Skar Audio RPX4 speakers and just keeping the factory tweets for now.
I'm replacing the 5 1/4" soundbar speakers with the Skar Audio RPX525 speakers.
I replaced the factory subwoofer with the Kicker CompRT 6 3/4" 2 ohm subwoofer.
The 4" front speakers and rear 5 1/4" speakers are just running off of the Factory1 stock head unit, and the 6 3/4" sub is running off of the factory amp.
That Kicker 6 3/4" really sounds great! Even for just running off of the little factory 80 watt amp! Lol
I also installed an AudioControl LC2i that's sending signal to a Skar Audio single EVL6.5" 400 watt bass package.
It's not a set up that will win any SPL comps, but I think it's going to be pretty sweet when I'm done.

That's awesome, man. That looks to be a pretty nice setup. Oddly enough, I was running a 6.5" Sundown Audio X series in mine, but ended up taking it out. I've eyeballed that same LOC in the past. I'm definitely a fan of AudioControl. After some digging around, my plan changed to running the (at that time) new Dayton Audio DSP and bluetooth input instead. With the X6.5 taken out, I took the concealed route with the DSP and 4-channel amplifier and ended up with this install.

Apparently these are the only pictures that I took of the sub enclosure. The sub's excursion was a little more than I had anticipated, so the small picture was the beginning process of bringing out the grill cover to prevent the surround from slapping against it.

I like your thinking outside the box. I don't use them currently for anything, but I have a pair of those FaitalPro drivers myself.

They are great drivers. I'm not a fan of too much tweeter, so I tent to lean more toward component sets. If we were to use the specs of these woofers to shop for a component set from, say, JL Audio, Hertz, or Polk, the price would end up pushing 1k for a 2-way componet set. It takes a bit of researching to piece together each part, but it's well worth it for me.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

That's awesome, man. That looks to be a pretty nice setup. Oddly enough, I was running a 6.5" Sundown Audio X series in mine, but ended up taking it out. I've eyeballed that same LOC in the past. I'm definitely a fan of AudioControl. After some digging around, my plan changed to running the (at that time) new Dayton Audio DSP and bluetooth input instead. With the X6.5 taken out, I took the concealed route with the DSP and 4-channel amplifier and ended up with this install.
View attachment 140272
View attachment 140273

Apparently these are the only pictures that I took of the sub enclosure. The sub's excursion was a little more than I had anticipated, so the small picture was the beginning process of bringing out the grill cover to prevent the surround from slapping against it.
View attachment 140274


They are great drivers. I'm not a fan of too much tweeter, so I tent to lean more toward component sets. If we were to use the specs of these woofers to shop for a component set from, say, JL Audio, Hertz, or Polk, the price would end up pushing 1k for a 2-way componet set. It takes a bit of researching to piece together each part, but it's well worth it for me.

Any pics of it mounted in the Jeep? I used to run a few thousand watts through 2 pioneer 12s - I built that box for them that fit behind the rear seat with absolutely no extra clearance anywhere. I’ve since then taken out the box (needed the room) but looking in to making an new enclosure for the drivers.

 

[bedhed]

@GorillaBiscuit I thought about it a little more last night, and I realized that I remembered wrong with the OE tweeter shape. It's actually square, not octagon.

Here's a little more details if you decide to go this route.

This isn't exact, but the grey square would represent the OE tweeter. All of the plastic outside of that would be shaved off.

Another thing to pay attention to is the OE tweeter guard. That part isn't part of the tweeter, so it stays. It may need to be trimmed though. It sits very close to the dome of the tweeter, so you'll need to eyeball it to make sure there is enough room for the dome to move and not hit against the guard.

 

[bedhed]

Any pics of it mounted in the Jeep? I used to run a few thousand watts through 2 pioneer 12s - I built that box for them that fit behind the rear seat with absolutely no extra clearance anywhere. I’ve since then taken out the box (needed the room) but looking in to making an new enclosure for the drivers.

Unfortunately I don't. I never took and pictures of it completed because I ran into a problem with the JL Audio MX500.1, and it simply was not going to work in the jeep without installing an external voltage regulator. That's a whole other story. It is a pretty small enclosure though, but much larger than the subwoofer required had I gone with a ported enclosure. The larger size is because I went with a transmission line design. The general dimensions (off the top of my head) is 28"x 9"x 18". The notched area in the back was to allow it to sit on the slideout that I have back there, while not blocking the cup holder on the back of the console.