Headlight Switch Part Two

MikeO

MikeO

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2017
Messages
157
Location
Hallsville, Texas
So, everything in switching out the switch went easily, but as I pulled off the old part, I saw this (see pic).
My question is, could this (short? / arch?) be caused by the old part I removed, so I can just install the new part and all is good, or is this a job for an expert? (I hate electrical problems!)

IMG_0853.jpeg
 
Hard to say for sure. It could be caused by the old switch, but it cold also be caused by a short in the wire, bad relay, etc.
 
I wouldn't worry about any other problems. Replace the switch and the connector. If the new setup doesn't blow a fuse and everything works, you're good.
 
CodaMan said:
I wouldn't worry about any other problems. Replace the switch and the connector. If the new setup doesn't blow a fuse and everything works, you're good.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I fashioned a rubber gasket and sandwiched it between switch and connector for now. It’s working. I’m guessing the dealer is the place to get the connector replaced as it is not a snap in, but requires some wiring. Thanks a lot for your help. I actually happy that this is not a electrical puzzle that needs solving.



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MikeO said:
Thanks. I fashioned a rubber gasket and sandwiched it between switch and connector for now. It’s working. I’m guessing the dealer is the place to get the connector replaced as it is not a snap in, but requires some wiring. Thanks a lot for your help. I actually happy that this is not a electrical puzzle that needs solving.



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Click to expand...

I wouldn't have done that. Your original photo showed the connector burned enough to bubble the plastic. A lot of amperage goes through there and with the connector not being flat it could arc and cause a fire.

I would buy a new connector and splice it in. It's only 9 colored coded wires I think. It would be a simple job.
 
CodaMan said:
I wouldn't have done that. Your original photo showed the connector burned enough to bubble the plastic. A lot of amperage goes through there and with the connector not being flat it could arc and cause a fire.

I would buy a new connector and splice it in. It's only 9 colored coded wires I think. It would be a simple job.
Click to expand...
Agreed. I already found one on Amazon for $45. I'm going to check O'reilly's too. I just have to figure out best way to splice: Crimp, shrink wrap, both? Thanks.
 
I would use crimp splices as long as you use proper splices and the proper crimp tool. I would also stagger the splices so the bundle isn't too thick and cover each splice with heat shrink to make them water tight and give them a little more flexibility.
 
Got the connector from O'reilly's, $45. The wires were actually color coded correctly which helped. Used crimp splices with shrink. Everything works! (Now there's just that nagging feeling that if my work wasn't perfect, when I least expect it, Jeep and I go up like a '71 Ford Pinto... Time will tell.) Thanks everyone.
 
MikeO said:
(Now there's just that nagging feeling that if my work wasn't perfect, when I least expect it, Jeep and I go up like a '71 Ford Pinto... Time will tell.) Thanks everyone.
Click to expand...

It would take a heck of a lot to go up in flames like a rear ended Pinto. Heck, considering there were over 3 million Pintos sold, the percentage that burned is somewhere around 3/100 of a percent. The Pontiac Fieros, on the other hand, randomly caught fire for various reasons including potential electrical issues and their percentage is over double that at close to 7/100 of a percent.

I don't think you'll have any problems but if you do I'm hoping your Jeep doesn't end up like a Fiero.
 
JEEPCJTJ said:
It would take a heck of a lot to go up in flames like a rear ended Pinto. Heck, considering there were over 3 million Pintos sold, the percentage that burned is somewhere around 3/100 of a percent. The Pontiac Fieros, on the other hand, randomly caught fire for various reasons including potential electrical issues and their percentage is over double that at close to 7/100 of a percent.

I don't think you'll have any problems but if you do I'm hoping your Jeep doesn't end up like a Fiero.
Click to expand...
Ha, Thanks.
 
MikeO said:
So, everything in switching out the switch went easily, but as I pulled off the old part, I saw this (see pic).
My question is, could this (short? / arch?) be caused by the old part I removed, so I can just install the new part and all is good, or is this a job for an expert? (I hate electrical problems!)

View attachment 60211
Click to expand...
Hi MikeO, I'm wondering if you changed anything electrical
MikeO said:
So, everything in switching out the switch went easily, but as I pulled off the old part, I saw this (see pic).
My question is, could this (short? / arch?) be caused by the old part I removed, so I can just install the new part and all is good, or is this a job for an expert? (I hate electrical problems!)
Click to expand...

Hi MikeO,
I'm wondering if you changed anything electrical prior to the issue? I'm asking because I just discovered the same issue with my switch/plug. I changed out my insturment panel lights to LED a week earlier. I caught a potent whiff of something, but I thought it was something with the heater core. I'm thinking I might want to switch back to standard bulbs before I replace the switch and harness.
 
DoubleHH said:
Hi MikeO, I'm wondering if you changed anything electrical


Hi MikeO,
I'm wondering if you changed anything electrical prior to the issue? I'm asking because I just discovered the same issue with my switch/plug. I changed out my insturment panel lights to LED a week earlier. I caught a potent whiff of something, but I thought it was something with the heater core. I'm thinking I might want to switch back to standard bulbs before I replace the switch and harness.
Click to expand...
Hi DHH,
No, I had done nothing new electrically, although, I did get that whiff of burning wire the day before the lights started to short out. I don't think it's your LEDs. In fact, just to lower the amps going through that switch I went all LED. I'm feeling pretty good about it now. The LED headlights lowered the amperage significantly, but I chaned everthing out, except the instrument panel lights. It was a pain splicing in the 9 wires of the new connector, but not impossible.

I always disconnect the battery when I work on electric. I'm sure you do as well. Just thought I'd mention it.
 
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