It very predictably drives smooth until 50 mph. Above 55 on any highway/freeway regardless of the pavement type the steering wheel will begin to shake violently back and forth after hitting even the slightest bump. The issue can happen at an even slower speed if you are driving around a curve when you hit that slight bump. It shakes so violently the tires audibly scrub on the highway making the sound of screeching tires. The only way to get it to stop is to stop the Jeep. On our standard hwy speed test drive route it will predictably begin the wobble at the same spot every time. Nothing that we have done so far has made it any better.
Help diagnosing death wobble on 2004 Wrangler
- Thread starter Shawn B
- Start date
It very predictably drives smooth until 50 mph. Above 55 on any highway/freeway regardless of the pavement type the steering wheel will begin to shake violently back and forth after hitting even the slightest bump. The issue can happen at an even slower speed if you are driving around a curve when you hit that slight bump. It shakes so violently the tires audibly scrub on the highway making the sound of screeching tires. The only way to get it to stop is to stop the Jeep. On our standard hwy speed test drive route it will predictably begin the wobble at the same spot every time. Nothing that we have done so far has made it any better.
Question - wouldn't removing the dropped track bar frame mount necessitate an adjustable track bar with a 4" lift, in order to keep the axle centered?
I figured. I was just putting that out there in general because of the posts stating it needed to be removed. If it's removed, that will mean a different (adjustable) track bar will most likely be needed, AFAIK.
Here is how to make a rough country track bar perform:
Replace the factory bushings before you install it , the are made in Mexico and are too soft and the sleeve is nearly tear shaped.
Sit them on the floor and build a wall around those little Mexican bushings. Don’t let them out , they will have your shop sheetrocked in about 2 hours.
Now go to o Reilly’s and get their oem replacements, they are about 17.99 each .
The rough country track bar is otherwise stout and has a good curve over the chunk , so it works well.
Going by your op, my guess to what has happened is something has worked loose or a weld is failing at the mount .
We have seen many cases where proper torque on a track bar bolt ended death wobble immediately....even if a mount hole is elongated , all you need is more holding strength than the pressure the front axle exerts on the track bar.
Most death wobble is a 2 week diagnosis and a 5 minute fix.
The track bar has a two fold job..to allow the axle to move (vertically) but not move (horizontally)....at least excessively.
Don’t be discouraged , it will be fixed.
We are not afraid of death wobble on here ...when we have the monthly cookouts at Chris’s house one of us always slips out front and loosens somebody’s front end pretty good...they may have a terrible wreck, but deep down inside they think it’s a good joke .
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Why is that a weird job? What do the control arms do? What do the ball joints do? What about the unitbearings. Using your definition of weird, just about every part on the suspension is weird. Ball joints, they let the knuckles turn one way but they are weird because they don't let the knuckle tilt sideways from the inner C. Unit bearings let the tires roll but they don't let them lean in and out relative to the knuckle, what's up with that? Tie rod ends, OMG, they spin around, go up and down, but they don't have any lateral give. Control arms, them sneaky little buggers. The don't let the axle move front to back, but they follow it when it moves up and down and sideways.
At the end of the day, they are all just mechanical things that constrain components within selected parameters while allowing full movement in the design parameters. Nothing weird about any of it.
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I reworded that to “two fold”, that’s a more apt way of saying it , thank you .
Shawn, you really need to get a big impact to hold of that nut on the gearbox...I have the same dropped pitman arm and I'm seeing a good three to four more threads.
If that arm is loose , it drives the entire linkage and will let her shake .
That particular track bar frame mount is different than mine , seems someone welded a plate on bottom to receive a stock type track bar ..not evil, just odd.
If that arm is loose , it drives the entire linkage and will let her shake .
That particular track bar frame mount is different than mine , seems someone welded a plate on bottom to receive a stock type track bar ..not evil, just odd.
This morning I took closer pics and posted then I ordered the RC forged heavier duty track bar which comes with a different style drop bracket. A local 4x4 shop stocks it. The bar is currently laying on the ground in front of the Jeep trying to get to it. It's crazy busy in the shop today..... Folks who want to spend money have to come 1st today unfortunately. Hopefully getting to it next tonight yet.
Remember to look very closely at the stock track bar bracket... If this is the type that the aftermarket bracket ties to you want to make sure that that one isn't moving.
I never had a chance today to really do any more than take the pics. It was crazy busy in the shop with customers. I will for sure tomorrow, hopefully early and I'll post the results. Thank you, again
Holy cow .
Just take the TJ bumper and push it out of the way !
Keep a sharp eye out man.
We have a 1970 Saturn yellow Buick GSX in the family ..I understand completely.