Help me get a YJ

The seller is dragging his feet; first he said he didn't have a paper title and would have to order it from Florida DMV, then he found it after all.

There was a fuel leak and a nearly flat tire at the test drive; I asked him to get the tire fixed but says he may not have time until this weekend.

I'm looking at a couple others for sale that would be cheaper with fewer miles.

Question is whether getting a 4.0L from '95 is head-and-shoulders above an '88 4.2L, in terms of reliability and ease of maintenance? I know the 4.2 is carbureted and will not have the same performance, but I'm not so interested in HP. I'd even accept a 4-cyl.
 
TRevs said:
...and is the Peugeot transmission to be seriously avoided?
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Ah, the puegot BA-10 5 speed. It should be avoided or swapped out. Or if it functions, drive it til it starts to fail and swap it for an AX15. They are a weak transmission with limited or no parts to make any repairs if broken inside.

I would only consider a 91-95 YJ with a 4.0l. Unless, you are planning to upgrade or swap stuff out. And thinking that a CJ is less complicated than a YJ is not true. 1980-86 Jeep CJ anything has miles of vacuum lines and garbage drive train right from AMC, older CJ's are not any better honestly are more of a nostalgia/collectors factor. I love CJ's and I love YJ's. But, the YJ from 1987-90 leaves much to be desired in all areas. I've worked on alot of CJ's acutally and they just look and Feel like regular Joe's made them with whatever they had for cheap or easy. Cracked everything is the name of the game with a CJ, cracked frame, fenders, exhaust........

Like said before, STOCK YJ leaves and good shocks ride decent. OME leaves are good as well. I have personally owned a YJ and CJ. I have had a YJ on OME springs, they are good. I eventually went to stock YJ springs with an extra leaf added and went SOA and a Currie 9" rear axle on my old YJ. Which was a 94 with a 4.0l.

My old YJ below....This was with Rubicon Express extreme duty 4.5" lift springs under axle, greaseable shackles and OME shocks on 33's. It rode "OK" like this. I was running a ford 8.8" at this point, then learned it was bent.......maybe by me not sure. I was also running it shackle reversal, that made it ride a little better. But was basically pointless and made the tires move up and back into the fender. A mod better suited for a stretched wheelbase IMO.

Anyway, those are my thoughts. I hope you get a YJ soon and I think your plan is solid gold and the Wife will quickly realize you're a genius and love the YJ. It's hip to be square......

jeep2-jpg.151426
 
OR, you could score an older YJ with a 4.2l and try out one of the new EFI swaps. Holley has a new kit for the 4.2L that is supposed to be decent. They advertise it as for the CJ but the YJ 4.2 is the same engine.

Just sayin.
 
@Cross-Threaded-06TJ

Thanks for all the input! I'm wanting a drivable jeep that is a mild-moderate restoration project, and the more modern tub/transmission/engine certainly seems worth it.

The '95 Sahara I'm trying to buy is purportedly on OME leafs for 2.5" plus aftermarket shackles (? rough country) for another 1.5" of lift and sitting on 33" goodyears.

From my test drive, the gear shift was hardly going into 2nd and 4th; I think it was binding against the tub or boot due to the transfer case drop. There's no body lift. My first priority would be to get rid of the t-case drop so I'm hoping I can replace the shackles with OME and lose 1.5" of lift and not incur driveshaft vibrations.

I know I'd get more rubbing on the tires but I want to go to smaller tires anyway.
 
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TRevs said:
@Cross-Threaded-06TJ

Thanks for all the input! I'm wanting a drivable jeep that is a mild-moderate restoration project, and the more modern tub/transmission/engine certainly seems worth it.

The '95 Sahara I'm trying to buy is purportedly on OME leafs for 2.5" plus aftermarket shackles (? rough country) for another 1.5" of lift and sitting on 33" goodyears.

From my test drive, the gear shift was hardly going into 2nd and 4th; I think it was binding against the tub or boot due to the transfer case drop. There's no body lift. My first priority would be to get rid of the t-case drop so I'm hoping I can replace the shackles with OME and lose 1.5" of lift and not incur driveshaft vibrations.

I know I'd get more rubbing on the tires but I want to go to smaller tires anyway.
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I'd lose the lift shackles 100%. I'd just do stock length shackles. Lose the T-case drop for sure. And I'd go with 30x9.50 for a mostly street Jeep. You can lower the T-case skid mildly with large fender washers til the vibes from the OME springs stop, IF it even has any vibes with no spacers and just the OME springs. Just add one washer per skid plate bolt per side til it's smooth. I wouldn't even waste the money on an SYE for your intended use.

I recommend 30" tires over 31" cause you'll have more power and better MPG for your drive.
 
Lose the lift shackles, find stock/stock spec springs if you’re going after a street jeep. Lose the skid drop and the trans shifting should be better. If I were hunting factory shackles I would be on Ebay or looking for inputs from the internet that’s got to be out there about the replica OEM shackles from onix and crown.

Did you run the vin through car fax? Did you verify the vin on the dash is the same as the vin inside the firewall? Should be some others near the rear, I think rear cross member, that bit me in the ass one time.

Stick with the buyer, but hold him accountable. There should be some money knocked off the deal for the leaking gas and the leaking air from the tire.

I can only share my .02 and would never go after a carb’d YJ. I’m not a fan of the interior(dash gauges, roll bar setup) or less than desirable engine and trans.

4.0L over the 4.2L all day
 
Fouledplugs said:
Lose the lift shackles, find stock/stock spec springs if you’re going after a street jeep. Lose the skid drop and the trans shifting should be better. If I were hunting factory shackles I would be on Ebay or looking for inputs from the internet that’s got to be out there about the replica OEM shackles from onix and crown.
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Thanks for the advice!

If I went to stock spec springs, what size tires would you recommend? Probably larger than the 205/75 R 15 on 15x6 rims shown on the door sticker I imagine.
 
Fouledplugs said:
Did you run the vin through car fax? Did you verify the vin on the dash is the same as the vin inside the firewall? Should be some others near the rear, I think rear cross member, that bit me in the ass one time.
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I ran the VIN through AutoCheck and there are no accidents or title issues.

How did you get burned in the past?

I'm partial to the older YJ roll bar, but probably not enough to bother swapping them out.
 
TRevs said:
Crossposted from YJ forum I just joined;

Hi all! New member here, but I've been on the sister TJ site for a few years now with an '06 LJ.


For various reasons, I'm considering getting a YJ as well. (My wife is considering killing me, but I don't expect you to help with that.)

My goal is a fairly low-cost YJ that I can rehabilitate to my tastes. It would be an on-road, city-bound complement to my commuter car. I'd keep stock tires/height or maybe a minimal lift. i don't care if it's a 4 cyl or 6. Obviously I want to avoid rust and major drivetrain issues, but minor mechanical issues don't bother me.


I'm expecting poor quality paint and planning a respray of the body to a color of my choosing. I also really like the tan/spice interior.


My main question is how affordable is it to obtain interior parts in the tan colors. If I find a good specimen with a gray interior, can I reasonably expect to source tan dash, bezels, carpet, console, steering wheel, door panels at earth-bound prices? Or if tan interior is my main goal, should I hold out until I find that?


Thanks!
Click to expand...

TRevs said:
Crossposted from YJ forum I just joined;

Hi all! New member here, but I've been on the sister TJ site for a few years now with an '06 LJ.


For various reasons, I'm considering getting a YJ as well. (My wife is considering killing me, but I don't expect you to help with that.)

My goal is a fairly low-cost YJ that I can rehabilitate to my tastes. It would be an on-road, city-bound complement to my commuter car. I'd keep stock tires/height or maybe a minimal lift. i don't care if it's a 4 cyl or 6. Obviously I want to avoid rust and major drivetrain issues, but minor mechanical issues don't bother me.


I'm expecting poor quality paint and planning a respray of the body to a color of my choosing. I also really like the tan/spice interior.


My main question is how affordable is it to obtain interior parts in the tan colors. If I find a good specimen with a gray interior, can I reasonably expect to source tan dash, bezels, carpet, console, steering wheel, door panels at earth-bound prices? Or if tan interior is my main goal, should I hold out until I find that?


Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
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