Help with fuel pump relay

Phileas Fogg

TJ Enthusiast
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Jan 4, 2020
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213
Location
Florida
So, following advise here I’m trying to diagnose the ‘ not starting 1st time but always second issue’. I believe it’s the fuel drainage issue requiring a new pump. However...

Today , I went to check the fuses and relay and found that the fuel pump relay is very loose. It is literally just sitting in its place held by gravity it’s that loose.
All the other relays are fine and push in as they should nice and snug. The fuel pump relay just drops in as I said With only gravity holding it in place.

I’ve tried other relays and they too, in this fuel pump relay socket just drop in almost not even touching the sides?

I’ve never come across this before , any tips how to fix this?

thanks as always...
 
Most relay sockets have connectors that snap into place via a small barb located on the side of the connector. To release them, I slide a very small jeweler's screwdriver down along side the connector on the "closed side" of the slot where the barb is most commonly normally located. If done correctly that will push the barb in so it will release the connector if you pull slightly on its wire simultaneously. If you can get them out you can normally squeeze the connectors together a little closer with pliers so the relay's pins have a tighter fit.
 
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In regards to the fuel pump issue, if you turn the key to the run position for 3-5 seconds before trying to start, the pump will prime the system and fire up either immediately or much quicker on the first try if it's a bad check valve.
 
In regards to the fuel pump issue, if you turn the key to the run position for 3-5 seconds before trying to start, the pump will prime the system and fire up either immediately or much quicker on the first try if it's a bad check valve.
The fuel pump actually runs slightly less than 2 seconds each time the key is turned on before it automatically shuts off if the engine didn't start. The usual recommendation is to do that 3-6X to give the fuel pump enough extra run time so fuel makes it to the fuel rail if the engine isn't getting enough fuel.
 
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I could be reading this wrong, but I don't think we've addressed the OP's question, which is why his fuel pump relay is so loose-fitting. I think he's wondering if that could be the problem.

Today , I went to check the fuses and relay and found that the fuel pump relay is very loose. It is literally just sitting in its place held by gravity it’s that loose. All the other relays are fine and push in as they should nice and snug. The fuel pump relay just drops in as I said With only gravity holding it in place.
 
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I could be reading this wrong, but I don't think we've addressed the OP's question, which is why his fuel pump relay is so loose-fitting. I think he's wondering if that could be the problem.
Yes thanks...This relay just drops in. I’d like to find out how to fix this issue if poss.
 
I’ve tried other relays and they too, in this fuel pump relay socket just drop in almost not even touching the sides?
It should snug as the others. Heat from excess amperage draw may opened the socket contacts.
I’ve never come across this before , any tips how to fix this?
The contacts are separate female terminals per contact, you may like to push the terminal out the plastic socket and replaced. You can always find the wires, cut and replace w an external relay socket but that will look not so nice.
thanks as always...
 
Most relay sockets have connectors that snap into place via a small barb located on the side of the connector. To release them, I slide a very small jeweler's screwdriver down along side the connector on the "closed side" of the slot where the barb is most commonly normally located. If done correctly that will push the barb in so it will release the connector if you pull slightly on its wire simultaneously. If you can get them out you can normally squeeze the connectors together a little closer with pliers so the relay's pins have a tighter fit.
Thanks Jerry but forgive me not sure I understand fully. The relay in TIPM in this case the fuel pump relay is just loose as if it not making any contact with anything?
I’m wondering how I might fix this so it pushes in snug like all others...sorry if I’m not getting it...cheers John.
 
It should snug as the others. Heat from excess amperage draw may opened the socket contacts.

The contacts are separate female terminals per contact, you may like to push the terminal out the plastic socket and replaced. You can always find the wires, cut and replace w an external relay socket but that will look not so nice.
So does the yellow plastic female housing just pop out?
 
Thanks Jerry but forgive me not sure I understand fully. The relay in this case the fuel pump relay is just loose as if it not making any contact with anything?
I’m wondering how I might fix this so it pushes in snug like all others...sorry if I’m not getting it...cheers John.
The fuel pump relay plugs into a socket and the socket has brass connectors inside that the relay's male pins are held by. Unless someone removed them for who knows what reason, and I doubt they were removed, the brass female connectors must just be worn and loose.

Unless someone is inserting the fuel pump relay into the wrong location, i.e. an unused location where no relay was ever intended to be inserted into.
 
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The fuel pump actually runs slightly less than 2 seconds each time the key is turned on before it automatically shuts off if the engine didn't start. The usual recommendation is to do that 3-6X to give the fuel pump enough extra run time so fuel makes it to the fuel rail if the engine isn't getting enough fuel.
I gotcha, 1 cycle must have been all mine needed
 
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The fuel pump relay plugs into a socket and the socket has brass connectors inside that the relay's male pins are held by. Unless someone removed them for who knows what reason, and I doubt they were removed, the brass female connectors must just be worn and loose.

Unless someone is inserting the fuel pump relay into the wrong location, i.e. an unused location where no relay was ever intended to be inserted into.
Yes...that’s the issue. Now I just need to know how to get at the brass connectors.
Should I removed the TIPM and then get at them from underneath?
 
IIRC. Yes. But still need to deal with the actual base. You will be better getting the fuse box out, flipping it and work from the bottom.
Right...do you think it’s a case of just squeezing them together to tighten their grab on the relay male pins?
 
That's what I suggested twice you do in my posts above.

Ha, sorry Jerry. I read your post too quickly. Yes, you suggested it: "If you can get them out you can normally squeeze the connectors together a little closer with pliers so the relay's pins have a tighter fit."
 
Ha, sorry Jerry. I read your post too quickly. Yes, you suggested it: "If you can get them out you can normally squeeze the connectors together a little closer with pliers so the relay's pins have a tighter fit."
It always pays to read instructions carefully. ;)
 
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