For a 4" or taller suspension lift you should install a SYE and DC driveshaft. If you can't afford those two key items my recommendation is to go for a 3" suspension lift.I was wondering how big of a T-case drop I would need to install so I don’t have drive line vibrations with the 4” SL and a 1” MML... and I obviously don’t have CV shaft and SYE
Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts at www.4xshaft.com would be a great place to get both from. Ask for Shawn or Tom (Shawn Wood's dad). Their pre and post-sales support is unsurpassed. They may give you some kind of a discount if you mention this forum or my name.Thanks for all the replies... I guess I’ll be buying me a SYE and CV shaft... I might as well do it correctly
That works but a standard SYE works fine too while maintaining the ability to make use of the speedometer gear housing. That means an extra cost electronic speedometer calibrator isn't needed. My standard length SYE worked fine in my previous TJ all the way up to a 5.5" suspension lift.Just get an extreme short SYE and drive shaft and adjustable control arms and you’ll be happy you did. Leaves you other options down the road
That’s true. Didn’t know that until after I went with the extreme short. My speedo is off a good bit and haven’t done the electric recal box yet, a plug and play one cost about $140. Have other things I’d rather do so that hasn’t been a priority
That’s true. Didn’t know that until after I went with the extreme short. My speedo is off a good bit and haven’t done the electric recal box yet, a plug and play one cost about $140. Have other things I’d rather do so that hasn’t been a priority
Yes, I’ve looked at that. Wanted a winch first and now I’ve got that but have to mod or replace my front bumper before I mess with the speedo. That’s still a low priority.
