How can I prevent body rust?

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This is a product that I have used, you might want to look at. It was developed for industrial equipment but works great on trailers, vehicles, whatever. It sprays on as a waxy film then dries. It is a corrosion inhibitor and protectant. A little pricy but cheap if it does the job.
 
Any of these type of 'waxes' are a good choice. All are very similar to Cosmoline. And I think all can 'self heal' unlike any type of hard coating like a paint.
Be sure to get the frame inside as clean as possible before using them.
 
Goatman said:
As for the fenders rusting out, if you take a grinder and cut a line across that wavy bracket underneath you can get any moisture out, then spray in your choice of rust stop product. Give it a week or so to remove any possible moisture then seal the grinder cut with a good silicone product. I've heard good results from this. I did it to my TJ last year to stop rust that just kept coming thru the top of the fender no matter what I did.
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I never thought about that or grinding it all the way off as PCO6 posted. After some serious washing and a few warm days of drying what I did was use a couple pieces of shrink wrap to connect some extra little red WD40 straws to my Fluid Film straw. Then I shoved it deep inside each hole at, or near(?), the corners of the wavy bracket and sprayed it on the way out. Since reading this thread I kinda want to do some grinding but knowing my luck I can already see at least one ugly nasty slot somewhere beside my hood.
 
JEEPCJTJ said:
I never thought about that or grinding it all the way off as PCO6 posted. After some serious washing and a few warm days of drying what I did was use a couple pieces of shrink wrap to connect some extra little red WD40 straws to my Fluid Film straw. Then I shoved it deep inside each hole at, or near(?), the corners of the wavy bracket and sprayed it on the way out. Since reading this thread I kinda want to do some grinding but knowing my luck I can already see at least one ugly nasty slot somewhere beside my hood.
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The fenders I showed in post #7 above are actually the second set of replacements on my '04 LJ. The originals were bad when I bought it in 2015 and I put a new set on in 2016 and it was only about 3 years before they rusted through on the "flats". I debated whether or not I should have removed that panel at the time I installed them and later wished I had. The black primer that comes on new fenders isn't the greatest and I knew I couldn't get paint up under the wavy brackets but I went ahead and figured I would do my best to spray a rust inhibiter in there on a regular basis. Unfortunately it didn't work.

I use my LJ year round and through any conditions in the winter. I wash it regularly in the winter and rust spray it several times throughout the year. I do an annual "big spray" and touch things up as I work on it. That area and the windshield have been my biggest headaches and hopefully I've got them solved.
 
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PCO6 said:
Sounds like a good product. I'm guessing that you'd have to have a good painted surface on the underside for it to stick to. I can see it being very good for hardware and a lot of areas under the hood.

I've never had a problem with the "fluidity" of Fluid Film or Krown T40 which are the only products that I've used. I see what you mean on external flat surfaces (underside of floor, etc.) but they're great in closed areas like frames. I tend to pressure wash a lot of exposed areas off in the Spring and reapply it in the Fall.
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even unpainted surfaces get protected, corrosion needs air start. spraying the cor-ban on a surface prevents the air/ oxygen from getting to it. we use it on airplane interior skins, in the wheel wells and on wing structures and it only really needs a reapplication if it gets removed for some reason. it will come off with MEK or acetone if necessary...
 
I used to fog in motor oil inside an old 71 LTD convertible, hood deck lid fenders, EVERY fall. pulled the wide trim panels off and coated the body with axle grease once. Never had to do another rust repair after that.
 
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If you have a vehicle that is driven in salt, keep it out of the garage all winter. Rust is a process accelerated by heat. Keeping the Jeep frozen outside will make a huge difference. When spring rolls around, use a product like salt away to flush everything out of the frame and body panels. Car washes with undercarriage flushes work in a pinch too, but some recycle their water—resulting it lodging more saltwater back under the body.
 
PCO6 said:
Reviving this semi-old thread. I'm repairing parts of the the body on my year round use LJ and am painting the whole vehicle. Here are a few things I've done to avoid future rust problems. There have been and will be more.

Front fender rust was mentioned above. The problem is the support panel that is located under the flat top of the fender. I bought replacement fenders and I could tell that they were barely painted between the two sheets of metal. The original stock fenders were better but they eventually rust out too. There is no way that you can apply rust protection in this area. I question how much support the panel provides so I just cut them out. I've since painted the fenders and I don't anticipate any problems.

I also replaced the windshield and frame. I was able to inject Fluid Film in the top of the frame and down the sides from the interior. The holes for the top frame and hard top clips is a good spot. There is no way to get to the inside of the bottom of the frame though. This is really the only part of the frame that is a rust spot and it's bad. A little unusual but I drilled two 3/8" holes through the frame just behind the windshield wipers. They're visible but partly hidden by the wiper arms. They don't jump out at you and with a dark Jeep they would barely be seen at all.

Always curious to see what others are doing!

View attachment 217925View attachment 217926View attachment 217927View attachment 217928

Fluid Film 360° Extension Wand for spray cans by Fluid Film: Amazon.ca: Home & Kitchen
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If you fold down your windshield there are a series of oval holes that you will be able to have access to.
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matkal said:
If you fold down your windshield there are a series of oval holes that you will be able to have access to.View attachment 226276
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I shot some rust inhibiter in the bottom holes of the replacement windshield frame before I installed it but because my hinges are seized I knew it would be the last time I would do it. I tried to free them up but to be honest, not that hard as I'll never put the windshield down. I have an '03 TJ and an '04 LJ and doubt the windshields have ever been down, definitely not in the time I've owned them.

Yours must be from an earlier TJ. The holes in the replacement windshield I bought for mine are quite a bit smaller.
 
PCO6 said:
I shot some rust inhibiter in the bottom holes of the replacement windshield frame before I installed it but because my hinges are seized I knew it would be the last time I would do it. I tried to free them up but to be honest, not that hard as I'll never put the windshield down. I have an '03 TJ and an '04 LJ and doubt the windshields have ever been down, definitely not in the time I've owned them.

Yours must be from an earlier TJ. The holes in the replacement windshield I bought for mine are quite a bit smaller.
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That frame is pre 04 without the trim pieces, I’m adapting it for my 04. PITA
 
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