How much for a used 32RH transmission and labor?

Moab

Moab

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I'm trying to prepare myself for the worst case scenario. I have a P0743 code. If I have to replace the transmission I'd like to know how much it's going to be. I can't do it myself where I'm at.

How much for a used 32RH (with say less than 75k on it.) and labor to replace it? I'm in Socal if that makes a difference. Probably costs more here. (Wearing my sarcastic hat.)

I priced out remanufactured and it's $595 plus shipping. Not sure where there at though. Or if there close enough that I can go pick it up. http://www.smartpartsauto.com/automatic_transmission_a999_32rh.html Anyone know where there located?

What's labor on a transmission replacement? 3 or 4 hours?
 
Most shops charge $100 or more for labor, so just do the math. In California you’ll likely pay more like $150 an hour I would suspect.

As for used transmissions, you can price them all out here for local ones: http://car-part.com/
 
moab said:
The cheapest one is $815 with 163k on it.
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Sounds about right. I would think (and this is just a guess) that a new one (or a fully refurbished one) would cost around $1500 to $2000. That’s about what a refurbished 42RLE automatic costs for my 2005.
 
I can't believe I had this thing inspected by the dealership 3 days before I bought it. I've never been screwed by the dealership on an inspection. And the symptoms were to subtle to notice when I test drove it. I've bought so many used cars with a dealer inspection and this has never happened to me. I feel an ulcer coming on.
 
What is the problem you're experiencing with the 32RH? Is its ATF level up where it should be? It won't shift properly, if at all, if the ATF is low.

To test the ATF level, the engine MUST be running and the transmission MUST be in Neutral. You'll get a false higher than it really is ATF level if the transmission is in Park or the engine isn't running. If it's low, add ONLY ATF+4. No other type of ATF is correct. If it doesn't say ATF+4 in big letters on the bottle's front label it's the wrong stuff.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
What is the problem you're experiencing with the 32RH? Is its ATF level up where it should be? It won't shift properly, if at all, if the ATF is low.

To test the ATF level, the engine MUST be running and the transmission MUST be in Neutral. You'll get a false higher than it really is ATF level if the transmission is in Park or the engine isn't running. If it's low, add ONLY ATF+4. No other type of ATF is correct. If it doesn't say ATF+4 in big letters on the bottle's front label it's the wrong stuff.
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I've done that, Jerry. ATF level is good. While warm and running in neutral. I think it was at your suggestion in another thread. You actually referred me to that place with the remanufactured ones I linked.

The symptoms are a short rev after shifting into 2nd gear. Last about half a second. And then it goes on it's way. No other problems at street or highway speeds. I suspect it's shifting from 2nd to 3rd rather fast though. It only stays in second from the time it shifts into 2nd and then the rev and then it goes into 3rd.
 
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glwood said:
Why does the link I access say $895? I know there is a $300 core charge, but is that in addition to the $895, or included?
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The way I read it was $595 after the core charge. But I'll go read it again.

EDIT - Read it again. Maybe your right. $895 plus the core charge?
 
moab said:
The way I read it was $595 after the core charge. But I'll go read it again.

EDIT - Read it again. Maybe your right. $895 plus the core charge?
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Yeah, it's a bit confusing to figure. I read the whole process as the part is $895 + shipping, plus a refundable core charge of $300 + shipping (not refundable). So even though they provide a prepaid core return shipping form/label, you still pay shipping both ways.
 
"The symptoms are a short rev after shifting into 2nd gear. Last about half a second. And then it goes on it's way. No other problems at street or highway speeds. I suspect it's shifting from 2nd to 3rd rather fast though. It only stays in second from the time it shifts into 2nd and then the rev and then it goes into 3rd

My 2000 32RH does this same think and I was wondering about it too... I'm only familiar with a TH400 in an old 69 Commando, and the auto in my wifes FJ and my Tundra... My 32 does not shift like any others autos. Maybe Jerry can shed some light on this, shifting quirks vs. something else...
 
My 2000 TJ when cold does the slip going from 1st to 2nd only.
Now if I shift it manually holding it just a few rpm higher it shifts perfect.
In normal driving I say it shifts too soon, I’d preferably like it to shift @ 2,500
instead of the 1,500. When it’s time for replacement I’m planning to go with a reman and shift kit
 
Just an FYI for anyone finding this thread. I just called the company on that link for the rebuilds. (06/04/19) They no longer carry the rebuilt 32rh. I asked about sending them my core and he stated that they couldn't even get the parts anymore.

Jasper Engines/Transmissions does still rebuild the 32rh, but the price is around $2300 delivered to a shop. (They won't sell to a consumer due to their warranty, I believe.)
 
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Hot-Damn! said:
Just an FYI for anyone finding this thread. I just called the company on that link for the rebuilds. (06/04/19) They no longer carry the rebuilt 32rh. I asked about sending them my core and he stated that they couldn't even get the parts anymore.

Jasper Engines/Transmissions does still rebuild the 32rh, but the price is around $2300 delivered to a shop. (They won't sell to a consumer due to their warranty, I believe.)
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Good to know.

For the record. I took my Jeep to Westminster Transmission in CA. And they diagnosed my tv cable needed adjustment. Took about 5 minutes to fix. 4 other trans shops told me I needed a complete rebuild. This was 4 months ago. Still driving strong. So if your having similar symptoms adjust your tv cable first. May be an easy fix.
 
moab said:
I can't believe I had this thing inspected by the dealership 3 days before I bought it. I've never been screwed by the dealership on an inspection. And the symptoms were to subtle to notice when I test drove it. I've bought so many used cars with a dealer inspection and this has never happened to me. I feel an ulcer coming on.
Click to expand...

I've found sometimes with a truck, especially one already modified with knobby tires and exhaust, it can be more difficult to notice certain issues. Compared to a stock car where you can more easily hear/feel something unbalance or out of whack. I missed some stuff on my TJ as well, it happens.

A few items:
1) What the hell happened to transmission prices? It's been many years, but I had my 1965 Mustang C4 auto 3 speed trans rebuilt for $150. The 32RH is not some kind of tricked out electronic 4 speed overdrive trans. What gives with these absurd rebuild prices?! Other than lockup converter, what is the complexity?
2) When my 1999 Ford Escort trans started slipping the 1 to 2 shift, the shops wanted $2000. Car wasn't even worth much more than that. My local garage guy said forget about it, just drive until it breaks. That was 8 years ago, lol. I finally junked that Escort last week - due to rust not transmission. Bottom line: don't be so quick to replace trans, unless you have some major issue that prevents driving.
3) See item 1 - what the hell is costing so much to rebuild a relatively simple (at least by today's standards) 32RH!?
 
indio said:
I've found sometimes with a truck, especially one already modified with knobby tires and exhaust, it can be more difficult to notice certain issues. Compared to a stock car where you can more easily hear/feel something unbalance or out of whack. I missed some stuff on my TJ as well, it happens.

A few items:
1) What the hell happened to transmission prices? It's been many years, but I had my 1965 Mustang C4 auto 3 speed trans rebuilt for $150. The 32RH is not some kind of tricked out electronic 4 speed overdrive trans. What gives with these absurd rebuild prices?! Other than lockup converter, what is the complexity?
2) When my 1999 Ford Escort trans started slipping the 1 to 2 shift, the shops wanted $2000. Car wasn't even worth much more than that. My local garage guy said forget about it, just drive until it breaks. That was 8 years ago, lol. I finally junked that Escort last week - due to rust not transmission. Bottom line: don't be so quick to replace trans, unless you have some major issue that prevents driving.
3) See item 1 - what the hell is costing so much to rebuild a relatively simple (at least by today's standards) 32RH!?
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I agree. But I think it's lack of parts.
 
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