For those who have the tools and want to set the pinion pre-load properly, you need;
250lb torque wrench although you can make do with a breaker bar if you're careful.
1-1/8" socket to fit the torque wrench/breaker bar.
An accurate dial-type inch-pound torque wrench (and probably socket drive adapters to fit the big 1-1/8 socket)
Understand that any torque setting means absolutely sweet FA. It's just a starting point, especially if you've replaced the crush-sleeve - which is not usually necessary. With the driveshaft, wheels, and drums removed, you use the inch-lb torque wrench to see how much rotational force is required to rotate the pinion shaft BEFORE you do your final tightening. You would do this while you still feel slight play in and out, like after you've changed the seal, installed the yoke/nut, and taken most of the slack out.
For instance, I measured mine at 9 in-lbs. The Dana 35 is pretty puny so it doesn't take much to turn it.
You now incrementally tighten the nut 5 - 10 ft-lbs and keep checking with the in-lb wrench looking for a 5 in-lb increase in rotational force. This is the only accurate way to know that you've compressed the crush sleeve enough to put the correct preload on the pinion bearings. It doesn't take much rotation to overdo it. Back it off if you've gone too far. If you exceed 300 or so ft-lbs - need new crush sleeve. I used a big pipe-wrench to brace the yoke while tightening the pinion nut.
In my case, the seal wasn't leaking. Just wanted to take the play out after 130,000mi. I wound up turning the nut 30-50 degrees to achieve this.
