How to wire a house receptacle

Evan77

She’s not leaking oil, she’s sweating power!
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P.s. i couldnt find an appropriate thread to put this in. Please move to one that is more appropriate if it isnt 😀.

This is very, very easy. I know alot of people on here might know how to do this, but this is for the people who don’t 😀.
Remember to be careful. 110 volts is much more than enough to put you 6 feet under. Especially since a lower voltage like that likes to grab to you and stick on to you. Be careful, especially if doing this while the circuit is powered from the breaker.

Step 1.
This is for a commercial receptacle, but is the same for your house one. 99% of the time they will have MC ran through the wall in a commercial setting. This comes in a combination of wires such as the picture below. This is 12/2. 12 guage wire with a hot (black) white (neutral) and ground wire (green). Most residential house have romex which is essentially this but it has a rubber coating on it instead of a metal sheathing like mc. Im guessing this has to circle around inspection purposes.
Strip the wire to about this length here.

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Step 2.
This is known as a ‘J’ hook. In most wire strippers there is a hole around the middle of the wire strippers. Use that to make a j with each of the three wires. You can also use needle nose pliers to do this.
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Step 3.
See why they needed to be ‘j’ hooked?
This isn’t a pretty example, but you want you j’s to be tight enough around the screws to where there is no gap contrary to the white neutral wire in the picture.
Green wire goes to the green ground screw at the bottom, the hot wire goes to the gold screw and the neutral goes to the silver screw.
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Step 4.
Tighten all the scews and make sure the j is tight around the screw and that none of the copper wire will hit anything, especially the cut in box or the junction box it will be mounted in.

Step 5.
Wrap the ENTIRE receptacle in electrical tape. Electrical tape is an insulator! This is very important. If for some reason you need to take the receptacle out for any reason, and you cant turn its breaker off, the electrical tape can protect the receptacle from hitting the metal box its mounted in and zapping you. I learned this lesson the hard way, while working on one while it was hot.
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Step 6.
Screw the receptacle in the box it will be mounted in. There should be 2 screws that come with the receptacle, those are used to screw in the receptacle in the box it will be mounted in.
After you are done screwing the receptacle in, make sure it is straight with the wall and then put the appropriate plate on.
Done!
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ignore the last picture, for some reason it popped up there and it wont let me delete it.
 
Most people skip the tape but I agree the little time it takes to do it is well worth the added safety. Also spend the money on a good 20 amp receptacle and never use friction receptacles. One of my rentals, built in the 80s, had the cheap friction types and the one pictured below started to overheat and fail. I ended up replacing all the outlets and switches with quality parts. It cost me about $100 and 2 hours work to do it right. Many fires originate from cheap and improperly installed outlets.
Notice the original installer striped the wire 1.25 inches. Some people have no pride in their work.

A9AA2BC9-FE65-4375-B2C5-837AF534846B.jpeg
 
Most people skip the tape but I agree the little time it takes to do it is well worth the added safety. Also spend the money on a good 20 amp receptacle and never use friction receptacles. One of my rentals, built in the 80s, had the cheap friction types and the one pictured below started to overheat and fail. I ended up replacing all the outlets and switches with quality parts. It cost me about $100 and 2 hours work to do it right. Many fires originate from cheap and improperly installed outlets.
Notice the original installer striped the wire 1.25 inches. Some people have no pride in their work.

View attachment 313424
Damn. Yea i agree with you on the 20 amp ones, but ussuly thats only for commercial purposes (microwaves, ovens ect😃)
 
Damn. Yea i agree with you on the 20 amp ones, but ussuly thats only for commercial purposes (microwaves, ovens ect😃)
Have you seen how much crap people connect to an outlet these days. I’ve seen power strips pluged into other power strips. Outlets in Ca have to be tamper resistant now which adds to the cost. I can not count the number of broken outlets I have found when tenants move out. It’s worth it to me to pay the extra $3 for a quality outlet or switch.
 
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Right.. thats why multiple electricians who've been doing their work for 20+ years still do it.
 
Right.. thats why multiple electricians who've been doing their work for 20+ years still do it.
And my late father, a lifetime electrician for 45+ years NEVER did it - and would have had fairly harsh words for anyone who did!
 
Damn. Yea i agree with you on the 20 amp ones, but ussuly thats only for commercial purposes (microwaves, ovens ect😃)
Something to consider if you follow code compliance. If you replace a 15 amp 120V. receptacle, ( NEMA 5-15P ) with a
20 amp 120V. receptacle, ( NEMA 5 - 20P ) it is only legal by the National Electrical Code if the circuit feeding it is 20 Amp over current
protection, (breaker) and properly sized conductors, (wire AWG. 12 gauge ).
 
And my late father, a lifetime electrician for 45+ years NEVER did it - and would have had fairly harsh words for anyone who did!
Then he will have harsh words for the entire 2 conpanies i used to work for. Do you really expect if someone is working on a hot receptacle to pull it out the wall exactly straight to where it doesent short out in your face? Im guessing youve never pulled a receptacle out of a cut in box before..
safety is always first, its not amateur work.
 
good writeup.

appears that you wrapped your bare copper "J" in the correct orientation around the screw post, Ive seen this done incorrectly so many times over the years when replacing plugs. yea, it will still work if wrapped incorrectly but the screw typically kicks the wire out as its being tightened.

also if the receptacle has the push in option on the rear of the rear... never use it. yes, I know its quicker.. but the amount of receptacles daisy chained, amp draw, heat, resistance... blah blah blah your gonna end up with this crap. eventually your gonna end up with diagnosing why you have no power somewhere and your more than likely gonna find that you were the culprit for sticking it in the push in fitting rather than using the screw terminal.
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My father in law, a lifetime Local 3 Electrician in NYC (Bear Sterns, the UN and other large facilities) always wrapped them.
So we can continue this phallic comparison all day - Dad was lifetime, ended his career IBEW LU 332, worked mostly huge commercial/industrial jobs. Never wrapped a receptacle in his life that I know of.
 
Then he will have harsh words for the entire 2 conpanies i used to work for. Do you really expect if someone is working on a hot receptacle to pull it out the wall exactly straight to where it doesent short out in your face? Im guessing youve never pulled a receptacle out of a cut in box before..
safety is always first, its not amateur work.
Its real easy - turn the fucking breaker off if you're concerned. Sheesh!
 
good writeup.

appears that you wrapped your bare copper "J" in the correct orientation around the screw post, Ive seen this done incorrectly so many times over the years when replacing plugs. yea, it will still work if wrapped incorrectly but the screw typically kicks the wire out as its being tightened.

also if the receptacle has the push in option on the rear of the rear... never use it. yes, I know its quicker.. but the amount of receptacles daisy chained, amp draw, heat, resistance... blah blah blah your gonna end up with this crap. eventually your gonna end up with diagnosing why you have no power somewhere and your more than likely gonna find that you were the culprit for sticking it in the push in fitting rather than using the screw terminal.
View attachment 313564
Ah. Well thankfully the stab in the backs are mostly gfci’s, ive never personally dealt with a stab in the back receptacle.
 
Same here, lifetime in NYC, union trained, family entrenched in the union up to the top of the union (some still are). Maybe a West coast vs East coast training??
Who knows? Dad was east of the Mississippi born, raised, and trained. He and I used to have "discussions" about which way to orient a common receptacle: Ground up, or ground down. As I've already opened one can of worms today, I won't state my position on *that* oh-so-critical subject...
 
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Never wrapped with electrical tape, but I just do basic stuff and would also never open a box that was still powered.

I have an old house, still have a few runs of the old aluminum two wire stuff, wrapped in black fabric. Asbestos I assume, lol. I've been replacing them as I find them and in the process have run across some really jacked up stuff. Shared neutrals for no apparent reason, really shoddy connections in junction boxes, all the usual nonsense. It's amazing that we have so few electrical fires in this country, especially in the northeast with many 100+ year old houses with original wiring.
 
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