Hello everyone, this is my first post on here. I live in NY where they use a ton of salt and dirt on the roads and so I have some rusting issues. My main issue has been with my e brake. The mechanism that engages the drum brakes at the wheel rusts and locks up preventing me from using the e brake. I’ve replaced the parts before and I’m tired of it. I was wondering if someone out there has tried using a hydraulic system with a wheel cylinder. Currently I have a D44HD with parts from a 97 Cherokee for a disk brake conversion. I’m eager to hear some of your responses!
Hydraulic E-brake using a wheel cylinder?
- Thread starter Bsens09
- Start date
Coat the whole cables with fluid Film. Once for Thanksgiving and again for New Year's. That should keep the rust away. Or get a good Cosmoline type product and coat it just once and be done.
Living up here in NY there is really no perfect way to deal with rust except to park it for half the year or to be vigilant going underneath to check and re-coat the areas that get blasted with salt. The new beetle juice/salt brine they use is even worse. It does not want to wash off.
Skip any hard coating that can let rust go to work behind the surface. If you lack the ability or time something like NHOC(?) Where they spray the oil based stuff for you could work, but honestly it's easy to slide under and coat it all yourself. That way you can be sure to see any new issues that might start up under there.
Living up here in NY there is really no perfect way to deal with rust except to park it for half the year or to be vigilant going underneath to check and re-coat the areas that get blasted with salt. The new beetle juice/salt brine they use is even worse. It does not want to wash off.
Skip any hard coating that can let rust go to work behind the surface. If you lack the ability or time something like NHOC(?) Where they spray the oil based stuff for you could work, but honestly it's easy to slide under and coat it all yourself. That way you can be sure to see any new issues that might start up under there.
You could try adding a line lock on the rear line. But I would be weary of this as we've had some bleed slowly off in the past.
^that, but you’ll need a mechanical 1/4 turn valve. An electric line lock will drain the battery then open.
Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sanlicne-Hydraulic-Valve-Ball-Pressure/dp/B08N6ZMTQ8/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3B14XARDUK75K&dchild=1&keywords=1%2F4+npt+ball+valve+stainless&qid=1612732496&sprefix=1%2F4”+npt+ball+%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWkkzQ09QUVVDSTdPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjY2NTI4M1UxUUg1R1Y4Wkg5SiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ1NjQwMzFOQ0xQUDdOVEZCNSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Done on a Subaru
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E-brakes are for emergencies!!! very similar to having some Dixie Cups handy in case the fire truck fails while putting out a fire. Seriously though, the line lock would work as a parking brake but not having a separate hydraulic circuit may fail a safety inspection looking for the E-brake.
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