I assume hack and tap, but what's up with this flange?
- Thread starter Ante_Up
- Start date
From what I have read (and I don't know) the bolt is just there as a keeper... it would be ideal to have been installed dead center, I would think ...but again, I just don't know if that'll cause issues or not. It clearly was drilled and tapped off center though
Regardless of the bolt's function, the flange is wobbling. Nothing else matters after that, fix it.
I had a couple of custom drive shafts made for my TJ but neither had a flange like this. Straight from a slip on yoke to double cardan, eliminates any chance for such problems.
The flange isn't the problem simply because it is a flange. 100's of 1000's TJ Rubicon models run flange style output shafts with matching flange style driveshaft connections with zero issue. His problem is the flange is bent, the shaft is bent, or some combination thereof fully unrelated to the style which does not inherently have any issues simple because it is a flange. There is also a bazillion flange mount pinions on the Ford 8.8. You could even wind up with a flange mount on both ends of a driveshaft if you run a flanged output on an Atlas and a 9" rear axle from Currie.
The problem isn’t the flange but the problem is his flange is bent/shaft is bent or some combinaction..
I agree there is something not true in regards to the flange.
I was simply explaining my set up, which is also tried and tested on 100’s/1000’s of vehicles..
It’s not a competition it’s just information..
No, it is accurate information that matters and yours was highly flawed. The existence of a flange is not any more or less prone to cause an issue. Your contention was a conventional yoke style driveshaft connection would inherently prevent the issue and that isn't true.
Thanks everyone for confirming what I figured... New question, I just replaced my DS's with Tom Woods when I put my Dana 44's axles in... Is there non hack and tap SYE setup that uses a flange like that so hopefully I don't have to replace a new DS with another? Or is there a replacement flange that'll work, assuming the output shaft isn't bent?
I say this fully realizing everyone's budget constraints are different. But, I would get a conventional Slip Yoke Eliminator and install that and just get Tom to fix the current driveshaft which he will do as economically as possible.
I have a Currie flange style I would let go cheap but it would need a longer shaft since it moves the flange face closer to the t-case. You'd only save a few bucks since we have to ship it and you can pick up a good SYE for 200ish.
Okay I appreciate it... I'll give Tom Woods a shout in the morning. Also, I'm assuming u-joints can't soak up the movement of that flange and would indeed cause vibes? At this point I'm so tired of chasing them, I'd be willing to buy a legit SYE and DS!
The joints will tolerate that movement. The fact that you're dealing with vibes tells you the rest.
I'd shoot for one of the Super Shorts but again, budget may be an issue. If the driveshaft has to be reworked anyhow, may as well get all that can be got.
This. One problem with the hack and tap is the flange spine was not hardened and will eventually loosen up giving you the wobble. You can try to find another flange and hope that fixes it or put a full SYE in there and gain some shaft length and eliminate the use of that expensive ball flange you are currently using.
That's the unfortunate part...the driveshaft I have now is new, so looks like it'll end up being a waste pending what Tom Woods can do for me!
See the highlighted word in your first comment? That is what makes you fucking wrong. Stop being stupid.Bahahaincorrect comments but blah blah
It can have the ball flange changed and retubed. Just have to ask TW what that would cost you.