Hello all!
I built this trailer a few years back before I knew there was this thread here so I’m gonna put my build all in here now.
I wanted to start a build of a roughly 4x6 trailer that could be pulled behind my Jeep for extended camping trips. Obviously with a TJ that doesn’t have ABS or stability control weight was a concern (which I honestly haven’t done a great job at keeping it super lightweight) but first and foremost I wanted something that could last and hold up to abuse.
For the base of the trailer I used the harbor freight 4x8 collapsible trailer. I knew I wanted some changes to it but ultimately felt like it was a decent base. In retrospect I would’ve gone a diffferent route but I’m not upset at the frame. It’s good enough for what it is.
I had also planned to run 33x10.50 KM3s which is what I ended up with so for the first year or so I added in wheel spacers to push the wheels out far enough to give sidewall clearance. See first picture for difference between the stock tires and the 33s.
Once I had the spacers and 33s installed I opted to add in a tongue extension to allow a full 90* turning radius without jackknifing the trailer agaisnt the Jeep. I ended up adding a hitch pipe that extended the hitch roughly 24-26” if I remember correctly to achieve this. Luckily this also works on my truck as well. See the second and third pictures.
For the box I wanted it to be very sturdy and have enough depth to store 2 large Plano camping boxes from academy ontop of each other while still being under the top. We cut and welded it all up with steel 2x2x.125 angle. We added in some 4”x.125” to wide brackets to help with support and for mounting attachments to since we didn’t want to solely rely on the plywood sides. The height is roughly 28”. See the 4th picture.
For the sides and flooring my dad had a bunch of 3/4” marine grade plywood laying around the garage that was for a project we never ended up doing. We cut each panel and drilled and bolted it into the steel angle frame. For the floor we glued and screwed two pieces together so the floor is extra sturdy. The wood floor was bolted through the steel angle frame and into the HF c channel frame using 6 bolts.
Once I got that finished up I took it to a line x here locally to me that took the panels back out and prepped and sprayed the entirety of the trailer. It was the single most expensive part of the build but has been very durable and held up very well over the 4 years I’ve had the trailer thus far. The frame of the trailer still had the coating that came with it so it has double the protection as the hitch pipe and steel angle box.
I had some fenders made to some specs I drew up that are just large enough to accommodate 35” tires should I ever want to step up in size but for now I’ll be sticking to my 33’s. I did not take them to line x to be bed lined, I did them myself with the spray cans. They’re 16 ga thickness and have turned out decent and have held up well over the years. I can stand on them with very little deflection on the sidewall of the trailer.
For the rear of the trailer I used my old smittybilt bumper which is a perfect fit in terms of width. Looks like it’s meant to be on the trailer. Nice addition as it gives two point attachments, on the rare chance I’ll lever need them, but more importantly a rated 500lb hitch that I can feel confident in adding a hitch rack to if extra storage space is needed.
For suspension, I used Dinoots smooth ride trailer springs which are double eye 30” spring mounts. I got their 3” leaf option but just weren’t up to supporting a weeks worth of camping gear, water and firewood.
For the hitch, I used the the lock and roll hitch. Love it, simple and has worked flawlessly.
After my first trip to Big Bend Ranch State Park I decided I needed stronger springs as I could feel the trailer bottom out on the axle from time to time while pulling through creeks and washes. On the way back home I realized that the 2k pound axle that came with the trailer had developed a slight bend in it.
With that I bought a 3.5k dexter axle and hubs with some new 4” 1500lb (each) springs. This combo has handled a half cord of wood with relative ease. Once the trailer is loaded down it bounces very little and pulls smoothly.
I have added two 5 gallon Jerry cans to the sides and quick fist mounts for an axe and a shovel to the sides.
For the tongue I used an old smittybilt swing arm tire carrier and I bolted it down to allow for a spare tire mount with a hitch mounted rack bolted together and then u bolted between the spare tire and the box for additional storage.
For the rear door which I did about 2 years ago, I used a jigsaw and sawzall to cut out the back with enough space for hinges and locks. It isn’t the best appearance but is sturdy and holds up well. See pictures 6-9.
Last month I added in an old bedslide I used to have in my truck. It’s rated for 1k lbs and bolts through the roughly 1.5” thick plywood floor. I’ve had added some swing arm jack supports to the rear frame to help keep the trailer from tipping back with the slide fully extended and loaded up heavy.
This past weekend I replaced all the lighting and wiring with new submersible LED lighting.
Sometime soon I’ll be drilling through the top of the steel angle frame to install my OVS RTT. Other than that my next mod I want to install is to replace the hitch basket I have bolted to the tongue and weld up a storage box in its place that will hold a small window unit AC, small generator and a propane tank all on a slide out for easy maintenance and use.
I would like to add some shocks to the trailer but don’t have a good solution due to where the frame cross members are and don’t want to weld in anything new.
I’ll add to this thread as I make new progress.
I built this trailer a few years back before I knew there was this thread here so I’m gonna put my build all in here now.
I wanted to start a build of a roughly 4x6 trailer that could be pulled behind my Jeep for extended camping trips. Obviously with a TJ that doesn’t have ABS or stability control weight was a concern (which I honestly haven’t done a great job at keeping it super lightweight) but first and foremost I wanted something that could last and hold up to abuse.
For the base of the trailer I used the harbor freight 4x8 collapsible trailer. I knew I wanted some changes to it but ultimately felt like it was a decent base. In retrospect I would’ve gone a diffferent route but I’m not upset at the frame. It’s good enough for what it is.
I had also planned to run 33x10.50 KM3s which is what I ended up with so for the first year or so I added in wheel spacers to push the wheels out far enough to give sidewall clearance. See first picture for difference between the stock tires and the 33s.
Once I had the spacers and 33s installed I opted to add in a tongue extension to allow a full 90* turning radius without jackknifing the trailer agaisnt the Jeep. I ended up adding a hitch pipe that extended the hitch roughly 24-26” if I remember correctly to achieve this. Luckily this also works on my truck as well. See the second and third pictures.
For the box I wanted it to be very sturdy and have enough depth to store 2 large Plano camping boxes from academy ontop of each other while still being under the top. We cut and welded it all up with steel 2x2x.125 angle. We added in some 4”x.125” to wide brackets to help with support and for mounting attachments to since we didn’t want to solely rely on the plywood sides. The height is roughly 28”. See the 4th picture.
For the sides and flooring my dad had a bunch of 3/4” marine grade plywood laying around the garage that was for a project we never ended up doing. We cut each panel and drilled and bolted it into the steel angle frame. For the floor we glued and screwed two pieces together so the floor is extra sturdy. The wood floor was bolted through the steel angle frame and into the HF c channel frame using 6 bolts.
Once I got that finished up I took it to a line x here locally to me that took the panels back out and prepped and sprayed the entirety of the trailer. It was the single most expensive part of the build but has been very durable and held up very well over the 4 years I’ve had the trailer thus far. The frame of the trailer still had the coating that came with it so it has double the protection as the hitch pipe and steel angle box.
I had some fenders made to some specs I drew up that are just large enough to accommodate 35” tires should I ever want to step up in size but for now I’ll be sticking to my 33’s. I did not take them to line x to be bed lined, I did them myself with the spray cans. They’re 16 ga thickness and have turned out decent and have held up well over the years. I can stand on them with very little deflection on the sidewall of the trailer.
For the rear of the trailer I used my old smittybilt bumper which is a perfect fit in terms of width. Looks like it’s meant to be on the trailer. Nice addition as it gives two point attachments, on the rare chance I’ll lever need them, but more importantly a rated 500lb hitch that I can feel confident in adding a hitch rack to if extra storage space is needed.
For suspension, I used Dinoots smooth ride trailer springs which are double eye 30” spring mounts. I got their 3” leaf option but just weren’t up to supporting a weeks worth of camping gear, water and firewood.
For the hitch, I used the the lock and roll hitch. Love it, simple and has worked flawlessly.
After my first trip to Big Bend Ranch State Park I decided I needed stronger springs as I could feel the trailer bottom out on the axle from time to time while pulling through creeks and washes. On the way back home I realized that the 2k pound axle that came with the trailer had developed a slight bend in it.
With that I bought a 3.5k dexter axle and hubs with some new 4” 1500lb (each) springs. This combo has handled a half cord of wood with relative ease. Once the trailer is loaded down it bounces very little and pulls smoothly.
I have added two 5 gallon Jerry cans to the sides and quick fist mounts for an axe and a shovel to the sides.
For the tongue I used an old smittybilt swing arm tire carrier and I bolted it down to allow for a spare tire mount with a hitch mounted rack bolted together and then u bolted between the spare tire and the box for additional storage.
For the rear door which I did about 2 years ago, I used a jigsaw and sawzall to cut out the back with enough space for hinges and locks. It isn’t the best appearance but is sturdy and holds up well. See pictures 6-9.
Last month I added in an old bedslide I used to have in my truck. It’s rated for 1k lbs and bolts through the roughly 1.5” thick plywood floor. I’ve had added some swing arm jack supports to the rear frame to help keep the trailer from tipping back with the slide fully extended and loaded up heavy.
This past weekend I replaced all the lighting and wiring with new submersible LED lighting.
Sometime soon I’ll be drilling through the top of the steel angle frame to install my OVS RTT. Other than that my next mod I want to install is to replace the hitch basket I have bolted to the tongue and weld up a storage box in its place that will hold a small window unit AC, small generator and a propane tank all on a slide out for easy maintenance and use.
I would like to add some shocks to the trailer but don’t have a good solution due to where the frame cross members are and don’t want to weld in anything new.
I’ll add to this thread as I make new progress.
