Is a 2" lift enough for 31" tires?

TJim

TJim

TJ Addict
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Athens, Greece
Hey !

I would like some help from the most experienced of this forum for one last time before I buy my springs.

Is 2" lift enough for 31" tires? I am talking about off road. (I know that you can run 31" stock without lift on road)

Or 2.5" lift would be better? Is there any meaningful difference between 2" vs 2.5" lift for 31" tires?
 
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As long as the distance between bump stop and spring perch are good; you shouldn't have a problem with that combination. The bump stop will save your shocks from bottoming out and your tire from driving into the wheel well.
 
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CharlesHS said:
As long as the distance between bump stop and spring perch are good; you shouldn't have a problem with that combination. The bump stop will save your shocks from bottoming out and your tire from driving into the wheel well.
Click to expand...
Thanks!
 
Rygrego said:
You don't need any lift for 31" tires.
Click to expand...
No offense, but I am talking about offroad. not on road.

There is no way you can run 31" with no lift without destroying fender flares and having enough up travel.

I am running 31" with stock suspension for a week now, because I bought tires & rims before the lift kit and there is minimal space for flex right now.
 
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TJim said:
No offense, but I am talking about offroad. not on road.

There is no way you can run 31" with no lift without destroying fender flares and having enough up travel.

I am running 31" with stock suspension for a week now, because I bought tires & rims before the lift kit and there is minimal space for flex right now.
Click to expand...
The Rubicon model has the same suspension as the others with 31” tires stock, and they do just fine off road.
 
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Wire4money said:
The Rubicon model has the same suspension as the others with 31” tires stock, and they do just fine off road.
Click to expand...


1) It doesn't seem like a have too much room for flex. Those are 31"x10.5 KO2s.

1616914136318.png



*Rubicon models came stock with 245/75r16, which is 30.5x9.5.
 
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2.5 all the way.
No mickey mouse BS.

2.5 springs...
4 new shocks of appropriate added length...
Sway bar links of new added length...
Make sure to get the ones that disconnect!!

Done!!

IMAG0507.jpg




The stance...
IMAG0398.jpg


A customer's Jeep...
31x10.50-15 tire
15x8 with 3.75 BS wheel
2.5 inch lift springs (don't remember mfg)
New shocks (I think Rancho)
Sway bar disconnects

That's it.

Works better on road than stock...
Works light years better off road than stock...

Do NOT skip the sway bar disconnects.

It's comical the number of customers we get with a pile of money in a lift only to ignore the sway bar disconnects.
Some just have new but longer ones...some ignore altogether and have a mess with the old being too short.

The suspension works wonderfully when you allow it to actually work. The sway bar links if connected allow a tiny bit of travel only. It's absurd.

We just had a WJ (99-04) Grand cherokee in...(basically same suspension design as the TJ) with this decent lift, expensive shocks, new control arms...
and solid sway bar links!!!
All this available travel but can only use a couple inches due to the sway bar links.

The above said....
You've asked this question a bunch all sorts of times and ways.

You're over thinking this.

Get some...
2.5" springs from Rough Country for a 6 cylinder (RC springs are fine)
I KNOW YOU HAVE A 4 CYLINDER and that's the point. It will give you a nice level ride with no rake.
Do NOT get RC shocks. They suck.
Get Rancho 5000x or skyjacker Black Max

If you can swing it get JKS disconnects. They're more expensive than some but the ease of disconnecting is wonderful and you'll be glad you spent a little extra. If you ever fought with cheaper disconnects you'll be so happy you got some better ones.

That's it.
Install...
Adjust your drag link adjusting sleeve to center your steering wheel...

Go wheeling already brotha!!!
 
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Rubicon88 said:
2.5 all the way.
No mickey mouse BS.

2.5 springs...
4 new shocks of appropriate added length...
Sway bar links of new added length...
Make sure to get the ones that disconnect!!

Done!!

View attachment 238257



The stance...
View attachment 238258

A customer's Jeep...
31x10.50-15 tire
15x8 with 3.75 BS wheel
2.5 inch lift springs (don't remember mfg)
New shocks (I think Rancho)
Sway bar disconnects

That's it.

Works better on road than stock...
Works light years better off road than stock...

Do NOT skip the sway bar disconnects.

It's comical the number of customers we get with a pile of money in a lift only to ignore the sway bar disconnects.
Some just have new but longer ones...some ignore altogether and have a mess with the old being too short.

The suspension works wonderfully when you allow it to actually work. The sway bar links if connected allow a tiny bit of travel only. It's absurd.

We just had a WJ (99-04) Grand cherokee in...(basically same suspension design as the TJ) with this decent lift, expensive shocks, new control arms...
and solid sway bar links!!!
All this available travel but can only use a couple inches due to the sway bar links.

The above said....
You've asked this question a bunch all sorts of times and ways.

You're over thinking this.

Get some...
2.5" springs from Rough Country for a 6 cylinder (RC springs are fine)
I KNOW YOU HAVE A 4 CYLINDER and that's the point. It will give you a nice level ride with no rake.
Do NOT get RC shocks. They suck.
Get Rancho 5000x or skyjacker Black Max

If you can swing it get JKS disconnects. They're more expensive than some but the ease of disconnecting is wonderful and you'll be glad you spent a little extra. If you ever fought with cheaper disconnects you'll be so happy you got some better ones.

That's it.
Install...
Adjust your drag link adjusting sleeve to center your steering wheel...

Go wheeling already brotha!!!
Click to expand...
Thanks man! Thats the answer I was looking for.
1) Rancho shocks are for sure. I am thinking of RS55128 & RS55240 (0”-2”) vs RS55239 & RS55241 (2”+)

2) Quick disconnects links for 2.5” lift are going 100% purchased as well! Because of my local market I can only find rough country disconnects.

3) About springs. I am not overthinking. I just dont know which OME springs to use. I am afraid to use HD springs for my light TJ, because I dont want to end up with close to 3” lift.

I am trying to avoid drivelines vibes if possible without lowering the transfer case or sye. If I have any vibes I will go with the sye route.

I think I am going to use Light springs by OME. I think they will be right for my little engine and overall not very heavy TJ and 31” tires. What do you think?
 
TJim said:
Thanks man! Thats the answer I was looking for.
1) Rancho shocks are for sure. I am thinking of RS55128 & RS55240 (0”-2”) vs RS55239 & RS55241 (2”+)

2) Quick disconnects links for 2.5” lift are going 100% purchased as well! Because of my local market I can only find rough country disconnects.

3) About springs. I am not overthinking. I just dont know which OME springs to use. I am afraid to use HD springs for my light TJ, because I dont want to end up with close to 3” lift.

I am trying to avoid drivelines vibes if possible without lowering the transfer case or sye. If I have any vibes I will go with the sye route.

I think I am going to use Light springs by OME. I think they will be right for my little engine and overall not very heavy TJ and 31” tires. What do you think?
Click to expand...
Are you doing a motor mount lift? May help with potential risk of vibes IIUC.
 
UKTJ said:
Understand, what I mean is it may be a way of solving the issue (if it happens) without having to incur the cost of an SYE and new drive shaft.
Click to expand...
Thanks for mentioning! Fingers crossed I will not have any problems. The only thing I know for sure I dont want to do is a transfer case drop
 
TJim said:
Thanks man! Thats the answer I was looking for.
1) Rancho shocks are for sure. I am thinking of RS55128 & RS55240 (0”-2”) vs RS55239 & RS55241 (2”+)

2) Quick disconnects links for 2.5” lift are going 100% purchased as well! Because of my local market I can only find rough country disconnects.

3) About springs. I am not overthinking. I just dont know which OME springs to use. I am afraid to use HD springs for my light TJ, because I dont want to end up with close to 3” lift.

I am trying to avoid drivelines vibes if possible without lowering the transfer case or sye. If I have any vibes I will go with the sye route.

I think I am going to use Light springs by OME. I think they will be right for my little engine and overall not very heavy TJ and 31” tires. What do you think?
Click to expand...
I've nothing bad to say about OME except this...
It seems they offer their springs based on equipment, camping shit, accessories, or not...all that.
It's hard to get a definitive height from them plus they just love their shocks being used in combination with their springs.

I didn't realize JKS stuff was hard to aquire over there.
I knew RC stuff you could obtain and i know for a fact their springs will do exactly what you want. Ask one of their reps. Say I'd like a 2.5" lift with no rake. I've a 4 cylinder engine. They'll send you 6 cylinder fronts and it will sit perfectly level working better than factory springs.

The build I laid out for you I can tell you this.
If your u-joints are in great shape you won't need to worry about angle and drop or raise anything. Moreover you also won't need a SYE. You're right at the max with 2.5" of not needing a SYE but you won't.
If you're not sure the age of
your u- joints then I'd highly recommend changing them as well. Use Spicer if you can find them.

The OME springs I can't answer about exactly what lift you'll realize and when you call them it's hard to get an exact answer on that too.
They seem to want to spin their answer into a how many pounds of this or that will you be carrying. Accessories, bumpers all that...when all you want to know is how fucking high is it going to be.
Thus your vibes, rake or level, etc etc. I can't really answer with OME springs as I've no idea where they'll come in at on your Jeep.
I'm not sure God even knows. That's my only issue with OME.

Lastly if there is one component that I can say works well from every mfg...it's springs.

I like the direction of your build goals. Simple, clean and functional.
IMO though I wouldn't back myself into the corner of OME only springs. Not when you're trying to get an exact idea of the amount of lift.
I've heard people say I got these OME springs and it raised my Jeep over 3.5 inches.
I've heard others say they got OME springs and had to add a poly lift as it was just a littke shy of where they wanted to be and wasn't level.

Too much dilly dicking around to get an optimum height one seeks and having to add things in the daisy chain. Everyone here knows I'm not a fan of adding more items in the daisy chain just to achieve a simple small lift.
 
Rubicon88 said:
I've nothing bad to say about OME except this...
It seems they offer their springs based on equipment, camping shit, accessories, or not...all that.
It's hard to get a definitive height from them plus they just love their shocks being used in combination with their springs.

I didn't realize JKS stuff was hard to aquire over there.
I knew RC stuff you could obtain and i know for a fact their springs will do exactly what you want. Ask one of their reps. Say I'd like a 2.5" lift with no rake. I've a 4 cylinder engine. They'll send you 6 cylinder fronts and it will sit perfectly level working better than factory springs.

The build I laid out for you I can tell you this.
If your u-joints are in great shape you won't need to worry about angle and drop or raise anything. Moreover you also won't need a SYE. You're right at the max with 2.5" of not needing a SYE but you won't.
If you're not sure the age of
your u- joints then I'd highly recommend changing them as well. Use Spicer if you can find them.

The OME springs I can't answer about exactly what lift you'll realize and when you call them it's hard to get an exact answer on that too.
They seem to want to spin their answer into a how many pounds of this or that will you be carrying. Accessories, bumpers all that...when all you want to know is how fucking high is it going to be.
Thus your vibes, rake or level, etc etc. I can't really answer with OME springs as I've no idea where they'll come in at on your Jeep.
I'm not sure God even knows. That's my only issue with OME.

Lastly if there is one component that I can say works well from every mfg...it's springs.

I like the direction of your build goals. Simple, clean and functional.
IMO though I wouldn't back myself into the corner of OME only springs. Not when you're trying to get an exact idea of the amount of lift.
I've heard people say I got these OME springs and it raised my Jeep over 3.5 inches.
I've heard others say they got OME springs and had to add a poly lift as it was just a littke shy of where they wanted to be and wasn't level.

Too much dilly dicking around to get an optimum height one seeks and having to add things in the daisy chain. Everyone here knows I'm not a fan of adding more items in the daisy chain just to achieve a simple small lift.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips! I have no idea about the age of the u joints of my rear drive shaft. I dont even know if the PO ever changed them! haha. ( I will have that in mind!)

That's exactly what I am afraid about OME springs. Getting 2.75" or even 3+ lift, because my TJ is extra light. That would possibly give me problems I dont need to with only 31" tires. (Also, it would be a little bit odd visually)

I will search a little bit RC springs too, but I am thinking that I should pull the trigger with the Light OME springs, and hope to be OK, or fix any problems with 10mm spacers max. I will post the results in the forum afterwards.

*A guy in my local forums mentioned that Light OME springs will shag more easily than HD springs. I told him that they have the same spring rate, and HD is only 0.5" longer than the Light spring. He responded that they must be more durable/reinforced. Does he have a point?
 
TJim said:
Thanks for the tips! I have no idea about the age of the u joints of my rear drive shaft. I dont even know if the PO ever changed them! haha. ( I will have that in mind!)

That's exactly what I am afraid about OME springs. Getting 2.75" or even 3+ lift, because my TJ is extra light. That would possibly give me problems I dont need to with only 31" tires. (Also, it would be a little bit odd visually)

I will search a little bit RC springs too, but I am thinking that I should pull the trigger with the Light OME springs, and hope to be OK, or fix any problems with 10mm spacers max. I will post the results in the forum afterwards.

*A guy in my local forums mentioned that Light OME springs will shag more easily than HD springs. I told him that they have the same spring rate, and HD is only 0.5" longer than the Light spring. He responded that they must be more durable/reinforced. Does he have a point?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure what is going on down under.
They don't make junk but notice how I said even God doesn't know.
It's ridiculously hard getting a straight answer out of them for a spring height. Perhaps it has to do with their mfg process. I know they always want to throw the accessories and gear you're carrying out there...well no shit. Obviously if I'm carrying extra stuff the weight is doing something. But a stand off empty lift height....mums the word.

Know this...and no I can't ship to you but I sell all this stuff.
Being in business we're tied to parts we sell. Even though we don't make them sadly a lot of customers will guilt you by association. In other words you're married to what you install even if it might be defective. So you have to be careful what we sell and recommend.

RC and others makes some things that are perfectly satisfactory. Springs being one of them.
RC's customer service is very good which can't be said for a lot in our industry, sadly.

Lastly with OME...there are many o'customer that say yes I like it but I had to put a poly lift on too...or it was way too high for what I wanted.

Just keep that in mind
 
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