Is it possible to do a diff fluid change on front Dana 44 without removing any steering linkage?

sa1126

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 4, 2019
Messages
123
Location
SA, TX
I started this a few nights ago and quickly realize the top bolts are obstructed, and since they are torqued it would be really hard to work around.

Is there a DIY guide or good video for this job?
 
Remove the drain plug, drain oil, reinstall drain plug, remove fill plug, fill with oil and reinstall fill plug.
Assuming you have a Rubicon 44.
 
I used something like this on my last Jeep.

Primer Bulb

Put one end down to the bottom of the differential, squeeze the bulb, cover the other end with your finger, let go of the bulb, finger off the end squeeze, finger on suck, repeat until empty or if it starts flowing itself, wait until it stops. I dump it in my oil change pan as I'm working. Refill until it starts weeping out of the fill hole, put the plug in, and wipe everything down. If you have a large syringe and plastic tubing that works (basically any sort of vacuum pump does). I wouldn't recommend sucking on the end to try and get a siphon going because it's not something you want to be drinking. Plus gear oil is heavier stuff then water or gas.

I use vacuums with clear hoses for bleeding break lines and removing fluids in odd places. Taking it all apart to inspect is a better method, but this method will get 98%+ of the fluid changed out.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: riklyn
I have a fluid pump from harbor freight that works great. I am just wondering how the heck to get the top bolts off the cover to clean and re-apply rtv.
 
I have a fluid pump from harbor freight that works great. I am just wondering how the heck to get the top bolts off the cover to clean and re-apply rtv.
What diff cover do you have? A pic would help a lot here.
 
What diff cover do you have? A pic would help a lot here.
Just the same old stock one.

See this pic here, even though it appears to be a Dana 30. The tie rod arm on my jeep blocks those top three bolts making it almost impossible to remove them without disconnecting some linkage. That seems like a bad idea though.

jeep-wrangler-dana-30-front-axle.jpg
 
I have a fluid pump from harbor freight that works great. I am just wondering how the heck to get the top bolts off the cover to clean and re-apply rtv.

With a fluid pump you can leave the cover on and suck the old fluid out through the fill hole. If it's not nasty fluid and the seal isn't leaking, there isn't really a reason to take off the cover unless you want to look around inside.
 
Then you have a drain plug. There’s no reason to remove the cover and apply new RTV if it’s not leaking.

Further, I’ve never heard of anyone not being able to get to those three bolts. At the least you should be able to get an open ended box wrench🔧 on them to break them free.
 
I don't recall having to do anything usual to pull the front cover.
 
There’s so many options here if it’s really occluded. Try an extension, try an extension with a socket joint, try a shallow socket, et al
 
  • Like
Reactions: rasband
I was able to access all of my front's bolts with extensions, etc, but couldn't for my rear 44 (no drain). Searched this awesome forum, and found a thread where someone suggested placing jack stands on the frame rail which allows the axle to hang down. That allowed me to access all bolts. I bet it would work for your front diff too.
 
Last edited:
I would suggest to pick up a reusable gasket for the diff such as a lube locker. It sure beats messing with RTV.
 
My 06 Rubicon D44s have drain plugs in the bottom side of the housing, not the cover. I found these.....after I pulled the covers.

Also, if the steering arm obstructs the bolts...try turning the wheel and moving the arm.
 
Don’t let the “looks” of it deter you. Get in there with different options and see what fits. You can jack up the front of the vehicle and support it by the frame and let the axle down to a good working position for easier access to all of the bolts if needed. I’d go at it with a regular open ended wrench first.
 
I used a pump I got somewhere. Plastic with knob and rod to a piston. (about the size of a soft drink can) 2 clear lines on it...one suction and one discharge..stick suction into fill hole and shove to bottom of case...hold it there with something (at the bottom) then pump the old liquid out. Clean the pump by pumping just a little new oil thru it...then pump the case full 'till oil is running out of the fill hole.....whammo !!!!! The diff. lube is changed !
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01
I used a pump I got somewhere. Plastic with knob and rod to a piston. (about the size of a soft drink can) 2 clear lines on it...one suction and one discharge..stick suction into fill hole and shove to bottom of case...hold it there with something (at the bottom) then pump the old liquid out. Clean the pump by pumping just a little new oil thru it...then pump the case full 'till oil is running out of the fill hole.....whammo !!!!! The diff. lube is changed !
While effective taking the diff cover off also allows you to inspect the gears and get out any fine metal that may have settled at the bottom.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ranger101
to all you pumpers, this is how I'm going to do it, or at least try.

I'm a few years past being comfortable pulling the covers off and really appreciate seeing your experiences.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Blondie70