Is it possible to repair rear seatbelt buckles?

Succentor

Succentor

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 27, 2021
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Cutting a hole in a new rubber liner for the cargo area (over the carpet) I stupidly nicked the fabric of the seatbelt buckle strap. It’s only a 1/4 inch cut but I’m concerned it is weakened and may now fail inspection.

is it possible to get new webbing attached? I’m guessing this part could be a pain to get especially in the UK.

Also ebay has generic seatbelt buckles but I don’t think I can mount them to the existing bracket...
 
Despite the tumbleweed in here, I’ve found a couple of companies in the UK who do generic seatbelt re-webbing. I hope they can do it as the OEM part is otherwise $180 or so and not easy to get in the UK.
 
Succentor said:
Cutting a hole in a new rubber liner for the cargo area (over the carpet) I stupidly nicked the fabric of the seatbelt buckle strap. It’s only a 1/4 inch cut but I’m concerned it is weakened and may now fail inspection.

is it possible to get new webbing attached? I’m guessing this part could be a pain to get especially in the UK.

Also ebay has generic seatbelt buckles but I don’t think I can mount them to the existing bracket..
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Can you not just remove the rear seat and seatbelts for MOT?
If not just buy 2 front seatbelt lowers from an old Triumph Herald or spitfire (you can still buy NOS) I am sure they are more interested in inertia and retract of uppers than fit of uppers to lowers?
 
I could - in fact i can just remove the seats as the MOT doesn’t test seatbelts on seats not fitted for the MOT. No need to remove the belts.

But I’m also worried about family members in the rear seats, which is something which does sometimes happen.
 
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Succentor said:
I could - in fact i can just remove the seats as the MOT doesn’t test seatbelts on seats not fitted for the MOT. No need to remove the belts.

But I’m also worried about family members in the rear seats, which is something which does sometimes happen.
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Who trusts seatbelts in the back of a TJ lol The tumble pin would break before the nicked seatbelt you put back on after MOT :)
 
I'm far from an expert on anything but @ 1/4" (6mm?) I'd probably just use some super glue to stop it from getting worse. It's not like a TJ is a sports car and the other 1-1/4" is still pretty strong. I also doubt that any family member that can actually sit back there would be as large and heavy as those belts were designed to hold.

Three years ago when I first bought my TJ, my 6' 1" 250 lb self did ride in the back of it to a restaurant 2 miles away then back home again while my son drove and the wife stayed in the front. That's when I found out that I'm not a contortionist and that seat hasn't been used since.
 
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I have a company willing to replace the webbing for £9 per side (that’s about $12) so it’s a no brainer... as long as I can get the torx bolt undone, that is.
 
Succentor said:
I have a company willing to replace the webbing for £9 per side (that’s about $12) so it’s a no brainer... as long as I can get the torx bolt undone, that is.
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The Torx was pretty easy to get out on mine unlike the rear seat rails that I give up on! Tried an impact driver but they are in there too tight (for good reason I suppose) make sure the 9 quid replacement isnt the real thin gauge stuff from China they use on backpacks and stuff. also use a small breaker bar to do the first few 1/4 turns, remember "Lefty loosy Righty tighty" lol. cant remember if this one had the blue anti seize on the thread but it was first time it had been out, also mark left and right.
 
Thanks. I’ll give it a go: if it comes out easily then it’s off to be re-webbed. The company look respectable (https://www.orionsafetybelt.co.uk/). If not then I might contemplate a pull test and superglue in the short term...

Would you recommend as someone did abone gently tapping the torx socket into the head before applying the wrench to ensure a solid fit? I do have a short breaker bar as well but obvs don’t want the head to slip.
 
Succentor said:
Thanks. I’ll give it a go: if it comes out easily then it’s off to be re-webbed. The company look respectable (https://www.orionsafetybelt.co.uk/). If not then I might contemplate a pull test and superglue in the short term...

Would you recommend as someone did abone gently tapping the torx socket into the head before applying the wrench to ensure a solid fit? I do have a short breaker bar as well but obvs don’t want the head to slip.
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I dont think it needs tapping in if its correct size mine came out clean and fairly easy, didnt look like it went through the entire tray to the underbelly. Just put your left hand on top of the wrench with a bit of pressure to keep it from slipping with the breaker bar on but after a few 1/4 turns it should just come out with the wrench/ratchet only. Buy some anti seize to put on the Torx when you put it back.
 
PS it came out - I won’t say it came out happily but it came out without a breaker bar, and it definitely had Loctite on the thread, so I I may replace it the same way. I’m having both sides rewebbed for £18+VAT+delivery; total including my shipping to them will be under £50 as against £150+ for a replacement part. (Seemed silly not to get both sides done while I was at it.)

The bolt definitely doesn’t emerge on the bottom - it was as clean as a whistle.
 
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