Is it safe to run 20w50 oil in my TJ?

If your only concern is noise then do what you want I guess, but I'm far more concerned with minimizing the time spent in the regime that contributes most to engine wear - the time between starting the engine and oil supply reaching wear surfaces such as the cam lobes. That's why I run oil with a 5 before the w.

I'll bring up the points again that Australia doesn't have a monopoly on hot weather and that I would question the prevailing oil advice of any country where engines are "old and worn" at 62k miles.
 
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I'm far more concerned with minimizing the time spent in the regime that contributes most to engine wear - the time between starting the engine and oil supply reaching wear surfaces such as the cam lobes.
What about the theory that thick oil stays on the bearing surfaces or thick oil protects bearings better when there is no flow? It is all just guesswork. Engines making noise means the clearances are loose, if the thick oil prevents that noise it's preventing a real problem and that has nothing to do with guesswork. When I change weight oil there is absolutely no change in engine sound because my bearings are in decent condition, if there was a change in sound there is no way I'd ever run the oil that allowed the engine to run noisy. It really makes no sense that people are suggesting that here to me personally but it's the internet, you read all kinds of stuff.
 
What about the theory that thick oil stays on the bearing surfaces or thick oil protects bearings better when there is no flow? It is all just guesswork. Engines making noise means the clearances are loose, if the thick oil prevents that noise it's preventing a real problem and that has nothing to do with guesswork. When I change weight oil there is absolutely no change in engine sound because my bearings are in decent condition, if there was a change in sound there is no way I'd ever run the oil that allowed the engine to run noisy. It really makes no sense that people are suggesting that here to me personally but it's the internet, you read all kinds of stuff.

By the time those surfaces cool off enough for the difference in viscosity to be that significant, the oil has already run off.

Regarding the noise, it's a hard thing to objectively evaluate and often perceived according to confirmation bias. If oil pressure is adequate, the oil is doing its job. Viscosity only affects how quickly the oil flows out of the bearing journals and had very little, if any, impact on how well it actually lubricates.
 
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By the time those surfaces cool off enough for the difference in viscosity to be that significant, the oil has already run off.

Regarding the noise, it's a hard thing to objectively evaluate and often perceived according to confirmation bias. If oil pressure is adequate, the oil is doing its job. Viscosity only affects how quickly the oil flows out of the bearing journals and had very little, if any, impact on how well it actually lubricates.
A higher viscosity engine oil, especially like a 20W-xx, definitely slows how fast the oil gets into said bearing journals when the oil is cold. It's at startup when the engine is cold when most engine wear occurs. Which is why many with expensive aircraft engines have electric oil pumps they run for several minutes before starting the engine to eliminate that accelerated startup wear.
 
What is the source of this information if you don't mind me asking, I'd enjoy reading it.

It started with general experience of a 50 and a 20 oil being effectively indistinguishable at 200+ degrees from both a visual and tactile standpoint. Their actual kinematic viscosities are much closer at operating temp than they are at room temperature.

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So maybe if you shut it off to go into a grocery store and come right back there's a difference in how much oil has drained out of the passages and galleys, but on a time scale of hours, they'll both have completely run off and left nothing more than residue. Using actual viscosity measurement as an example - the time it takes for a volume of fluid to flow through a calibrated capillary orifice under the force of gravity...At some point, the volume will have all flowed through, except for what might remain on the surfaces of the test apparatus - but that's not there because of viscosity, it's there because of the other properties and mechanisms such as surface tension and the van der waals forces that make oils inherently stick to stuff.

On surface tension, this paper http://path.web.ua.pt/file/FPE 2004 222 161.pdf establishes a relationship in n-alkanes between viscosity and surface tension, where the natural log of surface tension decreases linearly with the inverse of viscosity. So while generally the surface tension does increase with viscosity, it takes a multiplication of the viscosity to bring a few percent increase to the surface tension, and the surface tension approaches zero as the fluid reaches the critical point.

Finally...without an oil supply, how long does that fine residue hold up to being squeezed under a lifter with valve spring pressure? It's boundary lubrication at that point, and the time before particles start breaking off and becoming abrasive would probably be most aptly measured in milliseconds...and again...boundary lubrication properties are a result of the film strength offered by the additive package, not the viscosity. https://bobistheoilguy.com/states-of-lubrication/
 
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I have run my 02 Sport on Mobil 5w40 Delvac 1 since the factory fill was drained at 4000 miles. My Blackstone analysis has returned with glowing results each of the three samples sent in over the last 5 years. I live in Southern California, but I would run this oil if I lived in Montana. I have owned the Jeep since new and had zero issues in 150,000 miles besides maintenance. Not even a clutch.
 
I have run my 02 Sport on Mobil 5w40 Delvac 1 since the factory fill was drained at 4000 miles. My Blackstone analysis has returned with glowing results each of the three samples sent in over the last 5 years. I live in Southern California, but I would run this oil if I lived in Montana. I have owned the Jeep since new and had zero issues in 150,000 miles besides maintenance. Not even a clutch.
My clutch finally went at 177K
 
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If your only concern is noise then do what you want I guess, but I'm far more concerned with minimizing the time spent in the regime that contributes most to engine wear - the time between starting the engine and oil supply reaching wear surfaces such as the cam lobes. That's why I run oil with a 5 before the w.

I'll bring up the points again that Australia doesn't have a monopoly on hot weather and that I would question the prevailing oil advice of any country where engines are "old and worn" at 62k miles.
I will try and break it down.
When I talk Australia I talk Mostly Western Australia and outback conditions which can be 50 miles out of the City.

West Australia has 2 seasons only Winter and Summer, 2 weeks ago it was wet and coldish this week its in the100,s it happens that quick, summer temps will last from November until June then all of a sudden it becomes winter.

Other than in the far south western Australia should not have been inhabited but it is too resource and mineral rich, the natives were nomadic and all headed far south for summer.

West Australian weather is like Desert weather but the heat stays all night, its a very dry heat with constant blazing sun with the highest UV index in the world, yesterdays UV index allowed for only 10 mins in the sun, this index is given every radio news break.

West Australian houses outside the city were built years ago with Asbestos sheets inside and outside for a reason.

West Australian Temp is taken in the shade so temps you see are temps in the shade not outside that shade, it has to be taken in the shade because the constant blazing sun affects the equipment, most vehicles are hardly in any shade while running.

A road I built this winter melted yesterday (bled) and the first official day of summer is still 3 days away.

If you park your vehicle in the sun for half an hour the seats are too hot to sit on and you cannot touch the steering wheel that's with seat covers and a steering wheel cover, forget to crank all your windows a few inches put up the reflective shades and you are in trouble.

Before emission controls in the very late 1970,s early 80,s Holden(Chevy) Ford and Valiant (Chrysler) cars easily got 500,000 miles but Australia opened its arms to ever changing Japanese engine tech and smaller engines that wear in our conditions much quicker than the old straight 6,s and V8,s and now any vehicle with over 200,000 Kilometres or 125k miles is classed as worn out and hard to sell. in Japan a vehicle has to have a new engine at 65,000 miles by law!

I have experienced the heat in USA and other parts of the world and West Australian weather is brutal because its so dry and sunny.

I would not even consider using 20W50 in Tasmania Canberra Melbourne or Sydney but West Australia South Australia and the Northern Territory I would and many do and the reason mechanics in these areas recommend above10W30 for high mileage in these area.

Common non synth High Mileage oil for petrol vehicles here is 15W50 and 20W50 same as they use in high performance and racing engines.
 
I will try and break it down.
When I talk Australia I talk Mostly Western Australia and outback conditions which can be 50 miles out of the City.

West Australia has 2 seasons only Winter and Summer, 2 weeks ago it was wet and coldish this week its in the100,s it happens that quick, summer temps will last from November until June then all of a sudden it becomes winter.

Other than in the far south western Australia should not have been inhabited but it is too resource and mineral rich, the natives were nomadic and all headed far south for summer.

West Australian weather is like Desert weather but the heat stays all night, its a very dry heat with constant blazing sun with the highest UV index in the world, yesterdays UV index allowed for only 10 mins in the sun, this index is given every radio news break.

West Australian houses outside the city were built years ago with Asbestos sheets inside and outside for a reason.

West Australian Temp is taken in the shade so temps you see are temps in the shade not outside that shade, it has to be taken in the shade because the constant blazing sun affects the equipment, most vehicles are hardly in any shade while running.

A road I built this winter melted yesterday (bled) and the first official day of summer is still 3 days away.

If you park your vehicle in the sun for half an hour the seats are too hot to sit on and you cannot touch the steering wheel that's with seat covers and a steering wheel cover, forget to crank all your windows a few inches put up the reflective shades and you are in trouble.

Before emission controls in the very late 1970,s early 80,s Holden(Chevy) Ford and Valiant (Chrysler) cars easily got 500,000 miles but Australia opened its arms to ever changing Japanese engine tech and smaller engines that wear in our conditions much quicker than the old straight 6,s and V8,s and now any vehicle with over 200,000 Kilometres or 125k miles is classed as worn out and hard to sell. in Japan a vehicle has to have a new engine at 65,000 miles by law!

I have experienced the heat in USA and other parts of the world and West Australian weather is brutal because its so dry and sunny.

I would not even consider using 20W50 in Tasmania Canberra Melbourne or Sydney but West Australia South Australia and the Northern Territory I would and many do and the reason mechanics in these areas recommend above10W30 for high mileage in these area.

Common non synth High Mileage oil for petrol vehicles here is 15W50 and 20W50 same as they use in high performance and racing engines.

LOL.

Everybody measures temperature in the shade, because that's the only valid way to do it. A measurement taken in sunlight is a reading of the temperature plus the temperature difference required for the thermometer bulb to reject to the air through convection the heat it's gaining from the sun through radiation. 100 degrees is 100 degrees, it doesn't magically become something else by virtue of what continent its on, or whether the sun is shining, or how dusty it is. Humidity doesn't even play a role significant enough to consider in a heat exchanger design (in this application) and won't play one until the internal combustion engine evolves to reject heat through perspiration, in which case your desiccated hellscape will be best case scenario.

But go ahead, "break down" how temperature works for the senior heat transfer engineer at a heat exchanger manufacturer 🤣
 
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LOL.

Everybody measures temperature in the shade, because that's the only valid way to do it. A measurement taken in sunlight is a reading of the temperature plus the temperature difference required for the thermometer bulb to reject to the air through convection the heat it's gaining from the sun through radiation. 100 degrees is 100 degrees, it doesn't magically become something else by virtue of what continent its on, or whether the sun is shining, or how dusty it is. Humidity doesn't even play a role significant enough to consider in a heat exchanger design (in this application) and won't play one until the internal combustion engine evolves to reject heat through perspiration, in which case your desiccated hellscape will be best case scenario.

But go ahead, "break down" how temperature works for the senior heat transfer engineer at a heat exchanger manufacturer 🤣
Fuck you! With your Smiley laughs lol Been to Australia? I thought not!, you have no idea? I have travelled USA 4 times in Summer and yes it gets hot, maybe come down under to eat your words Dickhead lol
 
Probably a good reason most Aussies retreat from this forum because well "Fuck all knowledge" of real hot climates, Dont see many South African members either! TJ Big balls 33,s and above is the standard it seems. Some of you need to do a bit of World traveling before you give World TJ advise! OP skip the bullshit on here 20w 50 will do your engine no harm if its worn! In fact chuck in a litre of Moreys.
 
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Probably a good reason most Aussies retreat from this forum because well "Fuck all knowledge" of real hot climates, Dont see many South African members either! TJ Big balls 33,s and above is the standard it seems. Some of you need to do a bit of World traveling before you give World TJ advise! OP skip the bullshit on here 20w 60 will do your engine no harm if its worn! In fact chuck in a litre of Moreys.

LOL.

Everybody measures temperature in the shade, because that's the only valid way to do it. A measurement taken in sunlight is a reading of the temperature plus the temperature difference required for the thermometer bulb to reject to the air through convection the heat it's gaining from the sun through radiation. 100 degrees is 100 degrees, it doesn't magically become something else by virtue of what continent its on, or whether the sun is shining, or how dusty it is. Humidity doesn't even play a role significant enough to consider in a heat exchanger design (in this application) and won't play one until the internal combustion engine evolves to reject heat through perspiration, in which case your desiccated hellscape will be best case scenario.

But go ahead, "break down" how temperature works for the senior heat transfer engineer at a heat exchanger manufacturer 🤣
Dick head missed the whole point! Knowledge Zero! lol Credibility Zero! lol
 
It wont hurt your motor unless you experience freezing temperatures.
Here's an interesting spin on this. With 10w-30 my oil pressure was always 60psi. With 20w-50 my psi went to 80 psi and stuck there for a month. Now psi is back to 60 and tapping is gone, looks like one of the drain back holes was plugged with sludge and 20w cleared it out. Engine seems very happy.