Jimbo's JL axle build and stretch

[Jamesval035]

Goal for the current build is 14" ORI's on all 4 corners and stretch as far as possible without a comp cut. Looking at potentially 102-104" overall, 2-3" in the front and 6-8" in the rear with a belly height of 22".

I've been posting in a general discussion thread labeled, https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/jl-jt-axle-swap-details.87465/. I figured I would start a build thread for those looking to start their own build with JL/JT axles. Going to be up front, I have no idea what I'm doing but thanks to this forum, YouTube, and my love for offroading, I've found a way to spend my money and enjoy the process as I go.

Little background, purchased my 2001 TJ in 2015 w/ 117k on it. Came w/ the 4.0, 5 Spd(a must), and a 44 in the rear. Bonus were the half doors.


Unfortunately, it had a weep from the upper part of the engine. Thinking it was just a leaky head gasket, I started doing my research and learned the 01's were known for 0331 head crack. Welp, it had it. changed it there in my carport while living on base. my first major project/vehicle repair. Fast forward a year or so with tube fenders, 2" bds lift, and 33's and went at it!

Next stop was some metal cloak fenders/rocker guards, because I had to have them! lol. Didn't quite want hi lines yet or at least I didn't know I was going to need them. At the same time, had the infamous piston skirt slap so pulled the engine and had it rebuilt locally. What a way to get home from a deployment, there goes that money...


fast forward to 2019, about to deploy again and decided to go 35's w/ 4.88 and ARB lockers on the stock axles. was a significant upgrade to anything I ever had before

Road this way for a couple of years before I decided its time for a 3.5" lift and a tummy tuck and at the time went with 17's w/ Baja boss tires. First trip after the tummy tuck was Windrock and had a blast!


The Jeep sat like this for the last couple of years and had a blast with it, destroying it every chance I got. Uwharrie trips soon turned into buying a car hauler and venturing out to bigger and better parks thanks to some local influences lol.

Seems like every time I get back from a deployment (last one before retirement), I need or have to spend money on the TJ. Well, this is another one of those times...

Here is how she sits now while I figure out what the hell I'm doing!

 

[Jamesval035]

While I was gone, I started racking up parts and scrolling the local marketplace. Had some help as well, a buddy pointed me to some KMC235 grenades that were pulled because they couldn't find someone to mount them...Got them for a steal at $1000 for 4. Additionally had another buddy pick up a JT Rubi rear axle M220 local to us for $1200. and some meaty 37's showed up! Mounting them was a PIA! I could see why the previous owner and shops don't want to mount them outside of warranty reasons!

When I got home I had a stash of parts ready for the build to commence to include a GR comp20 stretch tank (which may not work for my build unfortunately). Waited for Blackfriday to start purchasing just about everything else. And while waiting this sexy box showed up on my driveway while I was at work.

 

[Jamesval035]

Fast forward to today, last week I ordered the rear links for the 4 link from Wide Open Design out of TN. Suppose to show today but delayed due to weather. So decided to start working on other things like the Flux off road blank corner armor and LJ boat rockers. Didn't realize how much of a pain in the ass it would be to mod and cut down for the rockers to fit, but I'm getting there. I'm quite happy with how the rear turned out, just need to throw the axle back under there after I get the control arms to make sure there is enough room or if I need to clear some more.

I am still trying to figure out the rockers and how Im going to mount underneath. I had to rid one of the brace/mounting holes underneath the rocker so may try and drill another through the thick aluminum brace to mount it. Also. have to match the front to the GR hi line fenders. But on step at a time.

For the blank, I tried mocking up with cardboard for the blank but wasn't completely in love with it with an OG fender look. Decided on going with the round look and very happy with it. I also didn't realize how difficult it was going to be to get a perfect or close to perfect rounded cut out with a jigsaw.

And today got to cleaning up the aluminum. Did some research and decided to give polishing it up a try. I must say, I may have over done it for a Jeep but damn it looks good!

The picture below on the left is a mix. To the left (shiny section) is finished with Mother's aluminum polish and a polisher. On the right, is finished with a wet 1500 grit hand sanded.

 

[Jamesval035]

Wide Open Design Links finally arrived this week. Shipped out really quick but the weather here in NC delayed them a couple of days. They are a beaut.

Got the axle brackets all burned in as well. I'm using GR 4 link frame brackets, lower axle mounts, Artec truss with a motobilt upper axle mount. I Originally had Artec upper mounts as well, and tried modifying them but still didn't like them or how they turned out. the Motobilt mount has 60deg built into the bracket and it sat way better on the truss than the Aztec ones did.

Looking at these welds, reminds me I need to get more MIG gas tomorrow. When I bought my Hobart 190 I went with a #1 bottle not knowing how much I was going to be using the machine. Its definitely gone quick since starting the build.

 

[Jamesval035]

Today, I finally got the links attached and the axle back under the jeep. That last upper left link was the last and a pain in the ass to get in. I do still need to burn in the frame mounts but I'll wait to I get more gas and make sure the axle is in a good spot before I do that. Where it's at right now, I really doubt the GR comp tank will fit, but I'll try...I did have to massage, and when I say massage I mean take the rear passenger foot wells to POUND TOWN to clear the upper links. This is the initial 4 link calculator that I was looking for. I'll re measure everything to see where I'm actually at, but it won't influence any drastic changes. Happy with the up travel I have (or think I have...) Time to start measuring for the ORI towers!

 

[Jamesval035]

So one good thing about the military is that we love the NFL. Got a 1200 work call today so made my way over to northerntool this morning and got a #2 tank. Would have went with a #3 but northerntool didn’t have any. Hopefully it lasts me through the build.

 

[SuspectLJ]

looking forward to following the build! i plan on doing something similar with my LJ with some JK width axles.

 

[Jamesval035]

Was able to get into the garage for a couple hours after work to go through the 4 link and see where else I need to clear.

I bet the wife is sick of me spending hours in the garage and entire weekends trying to figure this thing out. She’s probably complained maybe once, but she’s been a champ for the last month and a half. She does say she can’t wait for it to be done. She knows it consumes my every thought lol.

Anyway, to the work. After buttoning the 4 link up yesterday and I wanted to make sure the axle was squared and where I wanted it. Also noticed the pinion angle was pointed way up at full bump. But before I got to full bump, the lowers were hitting the frame. After I straighten up the pinion I now have probably a couple of millimeters gap. Probably still too close but until I get the driveshaft I won’t really know.

So close! I think the pinion angle can probably come down a little more to give me more room so not too worried about it.
Uppers…

I’m right at 7” stretch. Wonder if I can push it to 7.5-8”….

And mocked up the poly towers with the 14” ORI’s. One shitty thing I have to fix on the lower shock mount, is the bottom of the ORI is too long to feed the bolt through the mount. Going to have to figure something out for it. Going to look sick! And I’m excited I’m finally at this point! But one step at a time haha.

 

[Jamesval035]

looking forward to following the build! i plan on doing something similar with my LJ with some JK width axles.

Hell ya brother. My buddy has Jk rubicon axles under his TJ w/40’s at 103”. I think he’s gone through a couple of ball joints but that thing goes everywhere and is super capable.

 

[Fluxor]

Fast forward to today, last week I ordered the rear links for the 4 link from Wide Open Design out of TN. Suppose to show today but delayed due to weather. So decided to start working on other things like the Flux off road blank corner armor and LJ boat rockers. Didn't realize how much of a pain in the ass it would be to mod and cut down for the rockers to fit, but I'm getting there. I'm quite happy with how the rear turned out, just need to throw the axle back under there after I get the control arms to make sure there is enough room or if I need to clear some more.
View attachment 670193View attachment 670192
I am still trying to figure out the rockers and how Im going to mount underneath. I had to rid one of the brace/mounting holes underneath the rocker so may try and drill another through the thick aluminum brace to mount it. Also. have to match the front to the GR hi line fenders. But on step at a time.
View attachment 670191
For the blank, I tried mocking up with cardboard for the blank but wasn't completely in love with it with an OG fender look. Decided on going with the round look and very happy with it. I also didn't realize how difficult it was going to be to get a perfect or close to perfect rounded cut out with a jigsaw.
View attachment 670188View attachment 670189
View attachment 670190

And today got to cleaning up the aluminum. Did some research and decided to give polishing it up a try. I must say, I may have over done it for a Jeep but damn it looks good!
View attachment 670195View attachment 670197
The picture below on the left is a mix. To the left (shiny section) is finished with Mother's aluminum polish and a polisher. On the right, is finished with a wet 1500 grit hand sanded.
View attachment 670198View attachment 670196

Thanks for posting, these pics show why the blank is needed when stretching. If you cut the wheel well first its never in the "best" location, but even worse the wheel opening goes into the large radius bend and no matter how you make that bend there will be a nasty flare where the wheel opening goes into the bend. Its a pain but its the better way in my opinion.


Looks good, I like the direction.

 

[Jamesval035]

it’s been a fun little project in itself figuring the cut and lining up the LJ length rockers. Still have some work to do but it’s at a good spot to finalize location. The other side cut is not so great, so I’m going to put the good rear panel against the other and trim where it needs it to round it out better. I think it’ll work. We’ll see.

 

[SuspectLJ]

Hell ya brother. My buddy has Jk rubicon axles under his TJ w/40’s at 103”. I think he’s gone through a couple of ball joints but that thing goes everywhere and is super capable.

I don't plan on going that big but it's good to hear they can handle some abuse

 

[Jamesval035]

I don't plan on going that big but it's good to hear they can handle some abuse

37’s will do just fine, I just like to encourage bad decisions! Haha

 

[Jamesval035]

For those that are following and have outboarded shocks or run coilovers, how did you place the tower before cutting into the frame?

I want to make sure I’m absolutely content with where I want the tower before I start cutting into the frame.

This is the initial placement of the towers at full bump. I tacked in the lower shock mount and clamped down the tower to view at full droop.

I’d assume when at full droop, the axle would move forward a bit but that wasn’t the case when cycling. The ORI’s essentially stayed in the same place or slightly moved rearward. Since hitting the towers won’t be an issue, I moved the tower back about 1” so sit centered within the tower.

The ORI’s are happy at 90 degrees but that isn’t happening unless I cut into the tub which I don’t want to do. The other caveat ORI gives is no more than 50 degrees of angle. I am right in the 70 ish degree mark so should be safe there.

One mistake or thing I’ve noticed is the lower links hitting the frame when articulating. Kind of sucks bc I thought I compensated for that before welding everything up. So after I finish up with frenching the tower and welding, I’m going to see what I can do about the link hitting the frame. As of now, I get about 5.5” of uptravel but I think it can be better.

 

[Wildman]

Go look at Woodrow thread. He's in the process of doing coilovers and shows how he made brackets for setting the towers.

 

[Jamesval035]

Cut into the frame today! Was worried but once I started cutting it was easy peasy.

And because I ran out of blue tape, I used some very often celebrated 100mph tape!
Started out with my 3” Milwaukee grinder to get a nice straight line grooved into the metal, then went at it with my 4 1/2”. Started off smaller then needed then worked my way out with a flap disc. Turned out well for my liking. Bc the tower sits higher on the rear, I’ll just fab up a little piece of 1/4” steel to close the gap in the frame.

How I measured, essentially, I matched how far I wanted it back so 9 1/8” from the rear of the frame with an angle of 68-69 degrees. Drew a line with a paint marker then removed and taped.

Wanted to put this nutsert I found on the forum. I think Mr Blaine put a link somewhere on here saying he uses something like this. Decided to try it out. Works perfectly and would recommend for someone wanting more than a bolt and washer or a nutsert tool.